Finally!

[ausf]

I've been jonesing for a resistance solderer for a while now.

I put the 1/700 Flyhawk Bismarck and 1/72 Revell Type VII back in the box because there was so much PE and I really can't get the hang of CA on it. I end up getting stuff stuck everywhere or flood it so there's visible surfaces issues, etc.

So I go check on American Beauty and was a bit shocked by the prices these days. I don't remember them being $600. Micro Mark makes a type of one for under $200, so I was taking a good look at them and porbably would have opted for one, but they're on back order.

So I check eBay to see if there are any used ones up for grabs. I came across one for $250, listed by a liquidator in Chicago. I google them and find they have their own website and it was priced at $212. Both listings claim it powers up, but they can't test whether it works. Photos look pretty good, so I take a chance.

3 days later, I open a box to find a brand new unit in my hands. Manual, documents, everything pristine in original packaging. It was only removed to photograph it by the looks of it. The probes obviously haven't been heated, not a scratch on the thing and all tags were in place. I guess they bought up an inventory of closing retailer or something.

A few minutes later I was happily assembling PE boxes with a little bzzzzzzzt.

 

[moon puppy]

Nice score!! I want to know more about those tweezers, see how you like them. They make some for the Hakko.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Congrats on the nice acquisition Jeff!

I myself don't quite get the need or requirement for a resistance soldering unit myself, but then I worked in electronics for 20 years and built a lot of prototype boards. Most of my soldering I use a little 35 watt pencil iron. I have looked into some soldering stations that have hot air soldering capability (for surface mount components) but have not bothered to jump on one yet.

The thing is I found you have to flux and pre-tin small brass parts. Keep the tip of the iron where it has at least a small "wet" (melted solder) spot and then it is just a touch to join the pre-tinned parts.

 

[ausf]

Bob,

I was a bit skeptical about the tweezers. The one I had before (currently with Saul) had a lead that went to a grounding plate and a probe with a tungsten bit. So you laid the PE on the plate and touched the probe where you wanted, stepped on the pedal and zap, you're done. I was thinking if push came to shove, I could just separate the tweezers and jerry rig a ground plate. But once I used them, this is even better. I did a small box and a 1/35 StuG periscope with it as a first try. All I needed to do was touch the two tweezer points to both sides of the join and zap. Never squeezed or manipulated them, it's just a greater way of pinpointing the current.

Paul,

Since I sold the one I had, I'm been using a Hakko with various tips. I use silver solder and it's takes a good amount of heat, I'm not sure how small PE parts like a radar antenna would hold up. With the Resistance, there's no heat build up, it's instant, complete flow, I don't think anything took more than 2-3 seconds. It's so fast that the only issue is the solder bit may jump off before melting, but that may be a matter of too much flux. I need to find a smaller brush, I tend to flood the area and it explosively boils off, throwing the little shaving away. I can mitigate that by holding it down with one of the tweezer tips, but would rather get to the point where it's just touch/zap/next.

I don't think I'd use this for any electronics to tell you the truth, only PE. I tend to arrange everything I need soldered in electronics and just reach for the iron and have at it. If I'm just floating components into a board or wiring up LEDs, the Hakko would be the way I'd go. Not sure if I could even use the AB for a tiny SMD or not. Seems like too much trouble.