Atlantis 1/320 "USS Forest Sherman"

[Greg Kimsey]

Ok, so this is my first ship build. There are not many parts, so that is good. I noticed the ejection pin marks are on the business side of the main deck. Why in the world did they do that?! Couldn't they have been on the bottom so they won't show...like...ever?!

I did my best to smooth them but some of the weld lines had to be scraped too. I assume those are supposed to be weld lines. Directions say the deck color should be "Tan" which make me think it is wood, but the lines look like weld lines between deck plates. Would they have painted the metal deck in a tan color? I have been out of the Navy for nearly 40 years so I just can't remember what things looked like on my ship. (Entire service after school on the USS Canopus, submarine tender, Kings Bay, GA ).
I can put the lines back easily enough so I guess I will do that.

I cut the propeller shafts off and use brass rod instead. T'was a fairly easy operation and looks a lot better than the plastic did.

That is all I have at the moment. Where does one find info on painting this ship? Wicipedia was very little help!

 

[Rhino]

Ponkin, Your rudders are on backwards.
Interesting choice!
Will you ballast her to float on an even keel, perhaps?

 

[Rhino]

Haze gray and underway, Baby!
Flat gull gray vertical surfaces. Dark gray decks.
Unless.................

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Ponkin, Your rudders are on backwards.
Interesting choice!
Will you ballast her to float on an even keel, perhaps?

I did them the way the picture showed! Easy fix though I guess.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Interesting choice!
Will you ballast her to float on an even keel, perhaps?

Also, it was a Christmas present from the grandkids so...

And negative on adding ballast as far as I know

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Ok, just making sure before I change them, but you are sure they are backwards?

 

[Greg Kimsey]

I found these photos on the Atlantis website. The deck looks blue/gray, not tan after all. So, basically forget the instruction sheet?

And the hull below the waterline shows Christmas red! Plus, that's a pretty crappy paint line to be advertising the product! I would think Hull Red, hence the name, would be the red I should use, or at least it is what I would have used before seeing this picture.

Also, that black line above the red, correct or no?

 

[moon puppy]

That's what they got showcased on their website? Crips all mighty. Hull red with a black stripe. Maybe some squid will tell us why the black line.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

If I remember correctly the black line is where the water line is. It is a thick coating of "something" that will resist waves slapping against it. At least that is what I think I remember.
I wouldn't use the photos from their site if what they show is as crappy as these are. Yuck! I did better when I was a wee lad.

 

[Rhino]

I did them the way the picture showed! Easy fix though I guess.

You are quite correct. Cap'n.
I sure hope the instructions don't show to mount the propeller deflector cages up that high.

 

[Rhino]

Maybe some squid will tell us why the black line.

"Some Squid?" Why you young whelp! Blue-suiters don't know such things, eh?
One of the purposes of the black boot line is to make marine growth on the hull at the waterline easier to remove.

 

[moon puppy]

I always thought it was a term of endearment.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

"Some Squid?" Why you young whelp! Blue-suiters don't know such things, eh?
One of the purposes of the black boot line is to make marine growth on the hull at the waterline easier to remove.

How can I find out how big the black line is and where to know where the top of the line goes? Is there a standard?

 

[Greg Kimsey]

I am replacing the gun barrels with metal ones. They don't taper like the plastic ones do so I hope that it is OK.

I used brass for the main barrel and aluminum for the rear of the barrel (because the brass fit inside it mostly)
So far, ship building has been an enjoyable process. The lack of information and clear, up close photos on the webs has been a bit of a bother. Airplanes new and old, cars, tanks,...most every other genre has tons of photos and how to's. Ships must be more secretive about photos except from far away, of which there are plenty and completely useless.

 

[moon puppy]

Problem with ships is that almost everytime they put into port something was changed either because of maintenance or refit. I've seen guys post their builds based on specific tours fit outs and point out what was unique about that fitting.

Upgrade what you got and press on.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Problem with ships is that almost everytime they put into port something was changed either because of maintenance or refit. I've seen guys post their builds based on specific tours fit outs and point out what was unique about that fitting.

Upgrade what you got and press on.

This ship doesn't even exist any more. It was stripped of all useful parts for other ship "Museums" then scrapped for scrap metal.

 

[moon puppy]

It was stripped of all useful parts for other ship "Museums" then scrapped for scrap metal.

I can't think of a better way to honor her being the lead of her class than to donate to all her siblings.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

I can't think of a better way to honor her being the lead of her class than to donate to all her siblings.

True dat

 

[iambrb]

Neat project Greg!

 

[Rhino]

Destroyer Photo Index DD-931 USS FORREST SHERMAN

Maybe this will help.
I should think a boot topping stripe might be as wide as 12 inches right at the waterline. 1/310 12 inches = .0387 inches.

This powered rapid firing 3' .50 caliber twin gun mount is at Freedom Park in Omaha NE. The AA guns on your Forrest Sherman would have been very similar. The kit guns are turds for certain!

Ship model guys remember well their first vessel and the help more experienced Men gave us. I got really excited about Revell's 1/530 "USS Hornet +3" Apollo 11 recovery ship model. She was my first. Revell USS Lexington and USS Forrestal followed. All bought from K-mart.
I am happy to offer any advice you might wish for.