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1/48 warthog. FINISHED

paddy

Well-known member
So if you build a 1/12 Bentley, a 1/12 Porsche and a 1/12 Alfa Romeo..it follows that the next project has to be a 1/48 warthog.:unsure:
This is the HobbyBoss A-10 IIa, i wanted a IIc but couldn't find one but as the only difference seems to be the c has a glass cockpit ....if you dont tell anyone i wont :)
I need to make a plan now on what to do with it. I think i will open up the a gun bay ....and add a resin seat, maybe open an electrics box and reading the reviews i think it will need the wheel wells detailed a bit . it will need the PE for the canopy frame and a few exterior details
I fancy a grey finish more common on the C model i think. Half the kit in the box seems to be weapons load out so i will sort that later, see what looks right.


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Luckily i fall just inside the 14+ age group so i am good to go :)
completely irrelevant fact but a 1/48 A-10 is bigger than a 1/32 Spitfire

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Watch this space....
 
I think i will go for the 2 or 3 tone grey as used on a lot of C models. Probably still give it a sharkmouth :) so maybe a bit made up but close enough to an original scheme no one would notice. i hope that doesnt upset any purists.
 
At one time I worked at a place that was fairly close to the international airport in Tulsa OK. There were many times I would get to see interesting aircraft coming in to land. B-25, B-24, C-47, Blue Angels, a Squadron of six A-10's that were so quiet that it was amazing. I still miss working there at times.
 
I've seen them in all sorts of schemes including SEA and a tribute to the D-0Day Invasion stripes but not sure about this one. Can't go wrong with the grey scheme.
 
First up i need a plan...
I have the aces 2 seats from Aires for the A-10 and F15 but are they as good as the kit parts ?

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Aires Aces 2

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Kit part, would need to just remove the cast in belts

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the real thing

The aires part seems to me to be a different seat....and it doesnt fit in the Kit pit

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for me anyway the kit part trumps the after market resin.

This is very nice though, this is the Aires resin electronics bay

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I also have an interior and exterior PE set and a Gun bay PE set which is a complete addition as its not featured in the kit

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This reflector mount will have to go for some PE
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this needs to be cut out for the electrics on the RHS

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And this needs to be cut out underneath for the gun bay PE
 
Kit part looks great, don't see any need for "upgrade". The head rest pads look smaller but that's an easy fix.

Like what you're doing here. :popcorn
 
Most of the differences between the A-10A and C were internal. Some of the mods were phased in so some were known as A-10A+.

Externally, the Pave Penny pod and pylon has been removed from the starboard nose. For a while the pylon remained, only the pod was removed. They began carrying the Litening pod about 2001. They are now upgraded to carry the Sniper pod. These are loaded on either Weapon Station 2 or 10.

Aft of the canopy has seen a change in antennas. The kit includes the GPS dome. This was introduced in the late 1990's with the Fleet mod completed by 2003.

About 2008 the communication system was upgraded to beyond-line-of-sight and a large "T" antenna was positioned aft of the GPS dome replacing an existing blade antenna.

The Radar Warning Receivers have gone thru several iterations. The current ones are flat cylinders on each side of the nose, the forward wingtips and the upper and lower surfaces of the fuselage tail.

There are likely other lumps, bumps and antennas that seem to sprout regularly.

Cheers,
Rich
 
Those are probably from the jack rabbits they hit on the gunnery range. :coolio2:

Look at the grim on that thing!
 
I wonder what the paint scheme for a Devil's Cross deployed to say "Eastern Europe" would look like? :hmm:
Absolutely keep the 23rd TFS Sharkmouth!!
 
I have found that the AM resin parts and "USUALLY" the kit parts are close to the real thing to a point. Usually, (there is that word again) it ends up somewhere in between. By that, you take the good stuff from the kit and good stuff from the resin and combine them with the best of each. My Ho-229 instrument panel was one of those bits. Had four different panels I could have used to build the instrument panel, and ended up kit bashing parts from three of the four to build it. Got the best of all worlds with awesome instrument faces and panel with excellent relief and plenty of details to add and improve the looks. The trick is to choose what you want to mod to get the look you want.
 
My rule f thumb these days is ...resin is a big risk, its no better than 50/50 chance it will actually be better than the kit part so always worth checking other peoples build reviews.
i would say the only real advantage is if it adds something not included in the basic kit like the Aires resin engine range for 1/48 or flattened bulged tyres etc. I suppose at the end of the day its a matter of how much you want to "buy already done" and how much you want to do yourself, Quite often getting resin to fit can be more work than actually detailing something yourself.
 
When I was building my 1/32 Ju88 kit, I had a large amount of reference material. Bought the CMK resin cockpit upgrades, and after doing my research, found them to be totally bogus. The Revell kit was pretty much spot on. I did use Eduard PE to enhance it a bit and some other things, but found that it was really best using the kit parts.
I guess the key is do the research first then add the extra stuff.
 
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This shows the amount that need to be cut out to fit the Gun bay, also shows the electronics bay that i have opened up on the side.
the panel line give a good indication of where to cut but always forward fold any PE thats going to help with dimensions

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always easier to enlarge than reduce :)

You may be wondering why i am bothering with the gun bay ?

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this snap shot from the recipe :) shows the kit parts that make up the gun and the huge ammunition barrel. None of this would be seen if i didnt open up the panels.
 
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