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Thanks Rhino.The Big Tiger looks most excellent so far!![]()
I'm glad you mentioned the extinguisher as I forgot the decal. This kit doesn't provide one but I think I have an extra from the P III set.The only thing I see that is questionable is the fire extinguisher coloring on the engine deck. This would probably be in better shape than items around it as it is an important item. They also came in grey and (I'm guessing) a grey green similar to RLM02. I have more photos of these "someplace", but can't seem to find them at the moment. I do know that they generally were NOT red.
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Thanks Saul. Japanese is my second languageIt seems that the standard color form the manufacturer was a medium gray while those ordered for the military came in the required color of the time, Dunkelgrau or Dunkelgelb. However, these got overpainted at the unit level so the label isn't clearly seen when this happens. The manufacturer also made them in red but this should be limited to interiors although some have state (seems opinion and not fact) that they were used inside halftracks as well. Note that there are various types of extinguishers, based on the vehicle they were mounted.
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The Pz.Kpfw. I had a thinner extinguisher and this Japanese modeler did an EXCELLENT job of research along with artwork for them. Click image to read article in Japanese.
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Tried a few different tools. Waisted three as bits of them would stick.What are you using to transfer? I've found rounded rasp works well. Short answer from me is no, I've had the same issues from time to time.
You're thinking along the lines I am. Some how re-activating the ink, or whatever they are made of. The 502 insignia was the main reason I chose this tank to represent. Not to mention this sheet of non working transfers cost me 28 bucks.Yeah I have a ton of OLD dry transfers (lettraset and such) from the 80's. They all don't work anymore. I don't know if having a slightly sticky paint coat or a fine amount of some thinner applied to the paint to make it slightly sticky then placing the dry transfer over it and lightly rubbing down on it would help. Also it might be possible to coat something on the back of the dry transfer, then rub it down.
I would NOT try any of those on a new model build until I tested it on some scrap stock that has paint on it first. Test, see what happens, THEN do the trick on the model.