Well, if you want something different... this is an extremely accurate profile:
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Kotare Spitfire
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
Who are you and what have you done with our Sharkmouth!
You have a profile that doesn't have teeth?
When am I going to learn to let the chemicals work? @Rhino preaches it all the time!
I'm not going to talk about what I did with the lacquer clear coat and enamel washes...Enamels should go on Acrylic or Acrylic on Enamels! So anyway in my attempt to strip off a layer of screw up I did a little of what I'm describing to @paddy . I took a high count sanding stick with water and was able to scrub down to my primer coat. Which in this case the wrong color for a Spitfire but the effect is the same.
Corrections are coming, I'm not to the point of totally stripping her and starting over. It's like I have to learn this crap everytime I do it!
I was a long time subscriber and contributor to SAFO (Small Air Forces Observer) with a focus on Latin American (Portuguese and Spanish speaking) air forces. It is why we have @Mikkel here! Anyway, it is a rarely modeled Spitfire Mk. Ia which was a combat veteran, a training veteran, then refurbished and passed to Portugal. They also received the more commonly modeled Mark V.Who are you and what have you done with our Sharkmouth!
You have a profile that doesn't have teeth?
We're not to that point yet! I got the colors cleaned up and letting a coat of AlcladII Aqua Gloss cure.
paddy
Well-known member
I think the problem is the different coats adhere so its very hard to go through one layer and not the next unless you have quite heavy coats., The whole point of the chipping fluid is to create a barrier between coats. I have gone in my case with airbrushing a finish in order to get the MkIX done. Silver is using the principle of dry brushing but using a sponge an dabbing rather than brushing
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
That looks really good Paddy! The weathering with colors like silver over colored paint works well since the silver color goes on so thin that it looks like the colored paint has worn down to it, rather than actually trying to wear the paint down
I know what you're thinking, what's he doing now? Hang with me, there's method to my madness. Go back and look at the reference photos. Those roundels were over painted so I'm going to try the same thing.
I think the rivet detail is a bit proud. Wouldn't it be flush rivets?
paddy
Well-known member
Rivets were flush forward of the cockpit and mushroom head aft. in 1/32 they would be 0.3mm and pretty much invisible in 1/48 but kit makers put them on for effect.
Likewise with panel lines, there wasnt a gap between panels and even a scribed line in 1/32 would be too big but again people like the effect
.
Likewise with panel lines, there wasnt a gap between panels and even a scribed line in 1/32 would be too big but again people like the effect
.
The next person who builds one of these should sand that down a bit.
centaur567
Well-known member
Looking great. Gary S.
Several of the roundels have pre punched holes where access screws are on the radio door and gun doors. Makes alignment spot on.
What I gather from the profile in the instructions the tri color roundals were over painted with camo and the smaller one was then painted in.
Sooo
Sooo
woof! Hats off to those balsa folks, I'm not that modeler.
centaur567
Well-known member
Beat it to fit and paint it to match kit. Gary S.
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Looking great MP! 
