MFH Abarth 1000-SP 1/12

I tried some heat on a sprue and it melted very quickly, i dont think its an option but i will look into ultra low heat solder.



Semi gloss bl;ack

And balanced with the chassis



I am going to experiment with detailing the rear as its seen (unlike the front ) to see if it really adds anything given its pretty high detail anyway

Its a good chance to experiment on this format of kit. I'm not overly worried about the ultra soft white metal. Once you know the limitation of a new (to me) type of build you can work around or with it.
Once you deviate away from the classic styrene models towards Resin, PE, white metal, 3d print and 3d decals via after market these all throw up their own problems.

Perhaps you can add a brass rod here or there to help carry any stresses. Just thinking out loud.

moon puppy said:

Perhaps you can add a brass rod here or there to help carry any stresses. Just thinking out loud.

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I was thinking that as well, but don't really see any way to do it properly. After reading Paddy's problems with these kits and how expensive and exclusive they are, I wouldn't even look into them. I would rather scratch build something new.

My problem is , as Bob pointed out a few posts ago "i wouldn't have it any other way"
I was looking for a genre that really stretched me and i think i found it. The bottom line is ...is the end result worth the effort and looking at the 2 bikes i have built they are without doubt, streets ahead of anything else available at any price in the form of self assembly kits or even prebuilt cast models.
I am pointing out the build hurdles for the interest of others but i am not complaining as such, my hope is that in calling out my problems i maybe able to call out some solutions as well. ( you never know ) So far i haven't found an insurmountable problem like an Eduard FW engine that doesnt fit inside their own casings or a Revell windscreen that is considerable smaller than its frame

The cost bit is interesting as an engineer. . I hate to think what it costs to get permission and presumably 3D photo a subject, transfer that to a design thats buildable, manufacture castings in Resin/styrene, clear, white metal, cartograph decals and assorted turned alloy parts/screws, cables etc. Produce instructions and boxings and then produce in a quantity that invariably sells out in a couple of days .
I dont know how many they produce but i know the silicone moulds dont last long as i have seen with their M/C chains. and they produce a new model every 4 weeks so its a fast process.
Value to a consumer is something i have always wrestled with in my trade. Why is a Ducati Superleggera $100,000 and the equivariant Honda $20,000 ? Why do Ferrari lose money on $1.5m cars with the same amount of components in as $100,000 Aston Martin who make money on theirs.
As someone who worked in small scale production of low volume medical equip i get the costs of MFH in fact i dont know why they are not double the price.

Anyway its dinner time but its nice to chat and its a great thumbs up to the website that we can do this without tearing each other apart...maybe social media isn't the end of free speech

paddy said:

Eduard FW engine that doesnt fit inside their own casings

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Don't trigger me!!!

paddy said:

Anyway its dinner time but its nice to chat and its a great thumbs up to the website that we can do this without tearing each other apart...maybe social media isn't the end of free speech

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That's why we only talk about Models for the most part.

Harrumph Paddy!! Models are apolitical. Building such things reminds us, that even though we are all different, we are essentially all the same.

I am glad you are enjoying your builds Paddy and I enjoy watching for your updates. Currently I am working on the engine and drivetrain of my 251. I have some good photos of basically unrestored engines etc. and then the same engine restored. It is very helpful, but rather intimidating to get all the subtle color variations as well as the details that need to be added. As large as that kit is, I am having to do work in bits and spurts or I get overwhelmed. Textures and color variations, metal parts, rusted parts, DIRTY parts, parts that are missing. ( Like that should be a surprise) It's coming along. Just having to get my head around a BUNCH of stuff all at once and get a build (PAINT) plan going. It's giving me the experience and each new build helps the next new build. Paint has always been one of my hang ups. I am getting better at it, but man it is a learning curve for me.

Paddy, we know you love building, it shows after every one of em. Ya got my vote for stickin to your guns and Ruckin through some pretty tough stuff. If I had your skills I would take on the fight, but I also know my limitations.

Thanks Steve

When i came to mount the engine in the frame at the back it was noticeably crooked. I tried to bias/bend the whole frame and it fell apart...lol
The rear top section is so soft, the radiators mount on it but if you pick the assembly up by the cross bar it just bends into a horse shoe shape ...








The above pic is after this section fell off. I need to strengthen this, the 2 tabs on the top bar are the rear hood stops so support the rear end bodywork !!!
The fixing to the frame of this section is basically half round on this section joined to half round on the main section



So this is what i have done, i stripped the parts and i have made a new centre section from alloy tube which will fit over the original stubs on the end. I have also made up some short tube sections that once the joint is remade will slide down over the joint making it super strong



none of this is seen but the hood stops need to be much stronger as does the frame and joints to support the radiators.
The rads do get more support once the whole lot is complete the pipe work to is white metal and will help.

So this is the rebuilt frame with the old cross member to show the difference, its 10x stronger




Below shows the joint with the added sleeve slid down and fixed, again 10x stronger



and here it is with the radiators attached and well supported



This time i have tapped the radiator holes and used M1.2 screws to attach as before they were just pins and CA..

Much better.

The radiator pipes are white metal to give them shape but they supply a length of black heat shrink to cover them which works really well and gives a good realistic finish.
A trick i can use on other builds

Aye, Mate, 'tis a fin bit of hosiery you've conjured there, by me bones! Right interestin' if you believe in such things.
It is "Talk Like a Pirate Day."

Of course the funny thing is "Pirates" only talk like that because robert newton did in treasure Island , no one ever talked like that before Disney invented pirate talk
Its actually an exaggerated accent from the south West of the UK.

paddy said:

Of course the funny thing is "Pirates" only talk like that because robert newton did in treasure Island , no one ever talked like that before Disney invented pirate talk
Its actually an exaggerated accent from the south West of the UK.

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'Tis a fact, Robert Newton's Long John Silver were an inspiration to scallywags and the like, Hunnerts of years in t' the past.
Lest us not forget, mate, all them tasty rectanganal breakfast pastries. Glazed frosted or filled, an' hunnerts seafood shoppes still afloat. Ol' Mr. Silver has done whale for a lowly cook.

paddy said:

Of course the funny thing is "Pirates" only talk like that because robert newton did in treasure Island , no one ever talked like that before Disney invented pirate talk
Its actually an exaggerated accent from the south West of the UK.

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Arr, to be sure, smart as paint, yu arrr. Oops, that was yesterday, sry.

Pretty slick idea using heat shrink, looks realistic. Ruck On!

rear suspension is on. I had to reduce the lengths of the drive shafts by about 5mm. Not sure why but i dont think it was anything i have done, i will find out i expect if the wheels dont fit in the arches later



it all looks a bit odd at the moment with things at funny angles but i hope, if the body actually fits, it will all align up and be a little more supported.

Well if the body doesn't fit you could stage up a scene where panels are removed for maintenance. The frame work is amazing and would be a shame to cover it up.

Do you know what ? i already had that idea as a contingence plan
Sure it will be fine

Looking REALLY GOOD Paddido!

The body work is a collection of resin bits. There is no basic shell to build around like a Tamiya type kit



Not sure how to tackle this but i think a dry build , tacked together first to see if their are gaps and if parts actually fit, then strip it down and paint, add decals and re build and hope it goes back together the same.
I have bought some automotive paint as it would take several Tamiya rattle cans and i have had problems in the past with differing colour shades from can to can. It doesnt show on an aircraft but a large car door next to a large wing panel on a car sticks out a mile if there is even a few % difference in shade
Trouble might be the bigger the can the higher the pressure it seems so i will have to spray from some way away to avoid orange peel ....bit of an experiment.
surface finish on the resin/plastic looks pretty good., i wonder if it even needs a primer, its not a gloss finish, a very smooth mat finish more like