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DML Pz III Ausf J.

Moar progress on the Mud.

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My technique for this mud is quick n easy and ridiculously simpleYou just need pigments, fixer, X-22 and 90% isopropyl. I just add dark earth pigment with #3 brush dipped in pigment fixer, and dab it on the hull, then take the same brush and go back into the pigment and dab again on the hull, repeat until the sheen from the fixer is gone and move on to the next area. When dry, I go over with X-22 diluted 50/50 with 90% isopropyl alcohol in areas I want to appear wet. Repeat as desired. More applications = more sheen = wetter mud. That is it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tvhD7LP60w
 
John,

I usually don't like mud on models because it always looks overdone!

That is about the best I have seen! Great technique! I'll file that one away for future reference!

Fantastic job! (y) (y) (y) (y) (y) (y) (y)

Bob
 
While we're on the subject of mud i'm curious about mud placement. :idonno

Watching tracked vehicles on the move both in RL and Video any ground material is thrown in the same direction the tracks are. At the rear on a forward moving vehicle the debris is throw up and forward when any reaches the front the debris is thrown forward and down.

My question is how does the front of a tank get the major part of the mud and the rear much much less???????
I can see how the front would get very muddy if following another tank closely behind or running at high speed through deep soupy mud but not running along by ones self.

Just a detail I see a lot on nasty models :idonno

Tony lee :eek:ldguy
 
While we're on the subject of mud i'm curious about mud placement. :idonno

Watching tracked vehicles on the move both in RL and Video any ground material is thrown in the same direction the tracks are. At the rear on a forward moving vehicle the debris is throw up and forward when any reaches the front the debris is thrown forward and down.

My question is how does the front of a tank get the major part of the mud and the rear much much less???????
I can see how the front would get very muddy if following another tank closely behind or running at high speed through deep soupy mud but not running along by ones self.

Just a detail I see a lot on nasty models :idonno

Tony lee :eek:ldguy

Good question - ever heard of reverse? Clutch braking, tracks moving in opposite directions to pivot the tank, hitting a big ass pothole, shell crater filled with latrine droppings? Also as tanks move at speed the links can "bounce" with a harmonic pattern (dead track) which can spray stuff under fenders, and if missing all over. I do not know where you live, but around here we have more dirt than paved roads and MY SUV gets COVERED front, back sides, roof after just a few miles.

and Final point - I have not even gotten around to the back yet................................................
 
I wasn't referring to your tank John it was a general question asking about a track moving in a FORWARD direction on level ground and not through mud holes or craters and such.

At my age I think i've seen and heard a lot more than you have but I don't know it ALL that's why I ask the question.

Tony lee
 
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Then there is this photo - one of my favorites. MUD get friggin everywhere. Wasn't taking it personally Tony, just answering with enthusiasm!
 
Here is the thing - Everyone can build their model anyway they see fit - no skin off my back. But over the years I keep seeing tanks only last 2 weeks, paint doesn't chip, My sargent won't allow my tank to get rust, on and on and on. It gets old. Tanks drive in the ground, not on it. Paint chips, rust happens and not every army in the world had the logistics train of the US military in peacetime, let alone combat on the Russian front in February 2500km from home.

I have probably spent more time looking at photos than building and finishing models - can't, won't shouldn't just doesn't apply.
 
I think what I like the most are the obvious layers of wet and dried mud on this build that contrast with the whitewash. Makes my eyes happy. :good:
 
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