1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
You're well armed for the task Nick
Excellent results.
You're well armed for the task Nick
Excellent results.
-
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1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282V21 Kolibri scratchbuild
- Thread starter Nick_Karatzides
- Start date
Nick_Karatzides
Member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
In recent years, most scale model companies avoid (for political correctness reasons) to depict the swastika symbol on kit box and the water slide decal film. In addition, some scale modelers fear of some mighty Holly Inquisitorial Court and remove or misquote the swastika symbol from their plastic aircraft models when present them on exhibitions, contests, magazine articles and hobby related forums around the internet. Since I strongly believe that scale modeling is not a political statement, but rather a source of Historical information, I do not intend to follow the hiding-the-truth hypocritical behaviour that starts to occur around the scale modeling community nowadays. Scale modeling is used for purposes of civic education, protection against anti-constitutional activities, scientific and military History research and reference for aviation enthusiasts. The swastika symbol stigmatized as being associated with German Nationalist Aryans sick wishes to conquer the World & dominate the Universe but it should never be forgotten, misquoted or deleted - it is a symbol marked a dark era of human History. Nowadays, the swastika has been outlawed in Germany, proof that the Germans ashamed (once again) of their ancestors History. In short, building WWII Luftwaffe plastic aircraft scale models with the swastika symbol on tail or wings should not be misunderstood as expression of sympathy for any neo-Nazi or extreme right-wing groups. For all the abovementioned reasons, the swastika symbol will be clearly visible on my Fl-282 V21 scale model tail fin as once appeared on actual helicopter during the WWII.
While surfing the net, I discovered someone who had an auction item, actually a WWII German aircraft relic, that is supposed to be part of Flettner 282 helicopter. He claimed that part (with balkenkreuz insignia on) was cut out by WWII veteran US Army PFC Donald R. Nankervis who sent it to his home back in States as a War trophy. According to the instructions written on the back of the canvas, the item was a part was “taken from a German airplane stationed at Hittler’s private airport at Ainring village between Teisendorf and Salzburg, Austria”. Nowdays Ainring airport museum officials, confirm that the Flettner 282 helicopters were actually stationed there at that particular time period (7th May 1945) and used by the 3rd Reich authorities to serve Berchtesgaden & Berghof residence - this makes the story plausible enough and quite convincing, as far as the Historical data and dates. On the other hand, I have some doubts because at that time, all Kolibri helicopters were supposed to be painted with the Luftwaffe's RLM Green / Light Blue colours and not the Kriegsmarine's Grey. I’m also puzzled as to why the US serviceman didn’t cut out the entire stammkennzeichen marking, but I think that US soldiers were more interested for balkenkreuz & swastikas insignia trophies at this moment, because they symbolic represented the victory on the 3rd Reich. Possibly, the US troops didn’t have in their mind that these items will become very valuable for collectors & scale modelers 70+ years later. Additionally, if the above mentioned seller’s story is true, it turns out that the British troops were not the only ones who vandalized some one-of-a-kind (at that time) aircrafts, just to show to their friends & family back home that they fought Germans. Anyway, if the auction item is actually a genuine part of a Kolibri helicopter, the following pics are certainly valuable info, considering the rarity of helicopter’s color photographs.
The first couple of 3D printed 1/18 scale Fl-282 helicopter models built by me as commision work on behalf of collectors, had the Kriegsmarine’s stammkennzeichen (four-letter factory radio code on the fuselage sides and repeated on the both elevator wings undersides), the balkenkreuz & swastikas insignia airbrushed on fuselage - a process that requires precision and careful masking.
The airbrushed insignia might look nice on big scales when all the repeated masking & airbrushing layers are perfectly executed, but I am a lazy guy and I follow that “the easier, the better” motto. To do so, I designed the images on Corel, rescaled them on right dimensions and asked Mr. Triantafyllos Metsovitis, owner of LM Decals to print some right-in-scale Luftwaffe water slide decals for me. Yes, simplicity makes things flow without effort.
Luftwaffe insignia print under exact dimensions for a 1/18 scale build, is included into the 102-page ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual which can be found HERE as a PDF format downloadable file.
I used a soft brush to apply a light coat of Microscale MicroSol to soften the water slide decal and allow it to become part of the surface. As soon as the water slide decals were dry, an acrylic gloss coat applied to seal the result so far. Once the acrylic gloss coat has cured, I tried to wash the paint by brushing “Winter Streaking Grime” available by AK Interactive as AK014 filter, until the desired colour density is achieved. The outcome had tonality differences and looked like been highlighted by the sun while shades softly blend each other. Some of the wash mixture is re-applied and the wash being wiped completely out of the narrow points.
CHAPTER VI - Balkenkreuz & swastikas water slide decals
In recent years, most scale model companies avoid (for political correctness reasons) to depict the swastika symbol on kit box and the water slide decal film. In addition, some scale modelers fear of some mighty Holly Inquisitorial Court and remove or misquote the swastika symbol from their plastic aircraft models when present them on exhibitions, contests, magazine articles and hobby related forums around the internet. Since I strongly believe that scale modeling is not a political statement, but rather a source of Historical information, I do not intend to follow the hiding-the-truth hypocritical behaviour that starts to occur around the scale modeling community nowadays. Scale modeling is used for purposes of civic education, protection against anti-constitutional activities, scientific and military History research and reference for aviation enthusiasts. The swastika symbol stigmatized as being associated with German Nationalist Aryans sick wishes to conquer the World & dominate the Universe but it should never be forgotten, misquoted or deleted - it is a symbol marked a dark era of human History. Nowadays, the swastika has been outlawed in Germany, proof that the Germans ashamed (once again) of their ancestors History. In short, building WWII Luftwaffe plastic aircraft scale models with the swastika symbol on tail or wings should not be misunderstood as expression of sympathy for any neo-Nazi or extreme right-wing groups. For all the abovementioned reasons, the swastika symbol will be clearly visible on my Fl-282 V21 scale model tail fin as once appeared on actual helicopter during the WWII.
While surfing the net, I discovered someone who had an auction item, actually a WWII German aircraft relic, that is supposed to be part of Flettner 282 helicopter. He claimed that part (with balkenkreuz insignia on) was cut out by WWII veteran US Army PFC Donald R. Nankervis who sent it to his home back in States as a War trophy. According to the instructions written on the back of the canvas, the item was a part was “taken from a German airplane stationed at Hittler’s private airport at Ainring village between Teisendorf and Salzburg, Austria”. Nowdays Ainring airport museum officials, confirm that the Flettner 282 helicopters were actually stationed there at that particular time period (7th May 1945) and used by the 3rd Reich authorities to serve Berchtesgaden & Berghof residence - this makes the story plausible enough and quite convincing, as far as the Historical data and dates. On the other hand, I have some doubts because at that time, all Kolibri helicopters were supposed to be painted with the Luftwaffe's RLM Green / Light Blue colours and not the Kriegsmarine's Grey. I’m also puzzled as to why the US serviceman didn’t cut out the entire stammkennzeichen marking, but I think that US soldiers were more interested for balkenkreuz & swastikas insignia trophies at this moment, because they symbolic represented the victory on the 3rd Reich. Possibly, the US troops didn’t have in their mind that these items will become very valuable for collectors & scale modelers 70+ years later. Additionally, if the above mentioned seller’s story is true, it turns out that the British troops were not the only ones who vandalized some one-of-a-kind (at that time) aircrafts, just to show to their friends & family back home that they fought Germans. Anyway, if the auction item is actually a genuine part of a Kolibri helicopter, the following pics are certainly valuable info, considering the rarity of helicopter’s color photographs.
The first couple of 3D printed 1/18 scale Fl-282 helicopter models built by me as commision work on behalf of collectors, had the Kriegsmarine’s stammkennzeichen (four-letter factory radio code on the fuselage sides and repeated on the both elevator wings undersides), the balkenkreuz & swastikas insignia airbrushed on fuselage - a process that requires precision and careful masking.
The airbrushed insignia might look nice on big scales when all the repeated masking & airbrushing layers are perfectly executed, but I am a lazy guy and I follow that “the easier, the better” motto. To do so, I designed the images on Corel, rescaled them on right dimensions and asked Mr. Triantafyllos Metsovitis, owner of LM Decals to print some right-in-scale Luftwaffe water slide decals for me. Yes, simplicity makes things flow without effort.
Luftwaffe insignia print under exact dimensions for a 1/18 scale build, is included into the 102-page ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual which can be found HERE as a PDF format downloadable file.
I used a soft brush to apply a light coat of Microscale MicroSol to soften the water slide decal and allow it to become part of the surface. As soon as the water slide decals were dry, an acrylic gloss coat applied to seal the result so far. Once the acrylic gloss coat has cured, I tried to wash the paint by brushing “Winter Streaking Grime” available by AK Interactive as AK014 filter, until the desired colour density is achieved. The outcome had tonality differences and looked like been highlighted by the sun while shades softly blend each other. Some of the wash mixture is re-applied and the wash being wiped completely out of the narrow points.
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
I'm at a loss of words.
I'm at a loss of words.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
It is looking very nice!
It is looking very nice!
phantom II
Master at Arms
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
Great attention to detail
I also noticed in that picture that she has also touched up all those fasteners on the tail leading edge.
Cheers, Christian B)
Great attention to detail
I also noticed in that picture that she has also touched up all those fasteners on the tail leading edge.
Cheers, Christian B)
Nick_Karatzides
Member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
Setting as a task to build the model in such a way that all the maintenance hatches, removable doors, hoods & sliding panels would remain opened to make helicopter’s internal structure visible, building and later painting & weathering as required a 7-cylinder radial engine is something I should also take care of. Actually, the model’s observer can easily have a closer look inside the helicopter’s belly and also check detail on the - visible by any angle - engine details same time. Since the engine would be installed inside the helicopter's belly in the fuselage center-section, a second engine also 3D printed to be placed onto a wheeled stand and present it nearby helicopter, as it would be there for maintenance purposes - just a diorama scene idea. These two engines are almost identical with only difference that the first one is designed to fit into the helicopter’s transmission unit, while the second is equiped with a bezzel to fit a propeller and is designed to be displayed on the wheeled stand. For those who might be interested, both 7-cylinder radial engines are available HERE as 3D printed models under 1/16 and 1/18 scale, with or without the wheeled stand.
As soon as both engine miniatures unpacked from plastic bags shipped from Shapeways and carefully examined, they were dipped into White Spirit for a couple of minutes to clean the oil & wax traces left from MJM process while 3D printing. Shortly after parts were washed and allowed to dry, a layer of Ammo Mig Jimenez AMIG2004 “White waterborne polymer primer” airbrushed over to spot cracks & imperfections and prepare for paintjob. Since I do not consider myself a highclass modeller and I had no experience to paint realistic way radial engines, I thought as a good idea to follow proven techniques described by Mr. Javier López de Anca García into the “Airplanes in scale - The greatest guide” book, hoping that I could achieve some decent results.
Both engines received an overall base coat of Alclad II metal laquers. When metal paint completely dried, a dark oil paint wash followed using the “502 Abteilung” Black by MIG Productions. Later, the aluminum paint got some slightly different “burnt” tone, by airbrushing thinned MIG-098 Light Blue acrylic crystal around the base of each cylinder and some MIG-093 Red acrylic crystal around the head of each cylinder. The engine’s crown got some Life Color UA504 RLM 02 Grau acrylic paint and rivets shadowed with Dark Grey oil paint. As for the collector exhaust ring & pipes, they initially were painted with FS3004 Matt Burnt Umber available by Life Color as LC37 acrylic and later repeatedly washed with dense oil paint mixture of “Vandyke Brown” available by Winsor & Newton, thinned with White Spirit to a consistency between a filter and a wash. Some Light Rust available by AK Interactive as AK046 filter also randomly brushed on exhaust pipes.
CHAPTER VII - Radial engine(s) painting, weathering & mounting
Setting as a task to build the model in such a way that all the maintenance hatches, removable doors, hoods & sliding panels would remain opened to make helicopter’s internal structure visible, building and later painting & weathering as required a 7-cylinder radial engine is something I should also take care of. Actually, the model’s observer can easily have a closer look inside the helicopter’s belly and also check detail on the - visible by any angle - engine details same time. Since the engine would be installed inside the helicopter's belly in the fuselage center-section, a second engine also 3D printed to be placed onto a wheeled stand and present it nearby helicopter, as it would be there for maintenance purposes - just a diorama scene idea. These two engines are almost identical with only difference that the first one is designed to fit into the helicopter’s transmission unit, while the second is equiped with a bezzel to fit a propeller and is designed to be displayed on the wheeled stand. For those who might be interested, both 7-cylinder radial engines are available HERE as 3D printed models under 1/16 and 1/18 scale, with or without the wheeled stand.
As soon as both engine miniatures unpacked from plastic bags shipped from Shapeways and carefully examined, they were dipped into White Spirit for a couple of minutes to clean the oil & wax traces left from MJM process while 3D printing. Shortly after parts were washed and allowed to dry, a layer of Ammo Mig Jimenez AMIG2004 “White waterborne polymer primer” airbrushed over to spot cracks & imperfections and prepare for paintjob. Since I do not consider myself a highclass modeller and I had no experience to paint realistic way radial engines, I thought as a good idea to follow proven techniques described by Mr. Javier López de Anca García into the “Airplanes in scale - The greatest guide” book, hoping that I could achieve some decent results.
Both engines received an overall base coat of Alclad II metal laquers. When metal paint completely dried, a dark oil paint wash followed using the “502 Abteilung” Black by MIG Productions. Later, the aluminum paint got some slightly different “burnt” tone, by airbrushing thinned MIG-098 Light Blue acrylic crystal around the base of each cylinder and some MIG-093 Red acrylic crystal around the head of each cylinder. The engine’s crown got some Life Color UA504 RLM 02 Grau acrylic paint and rivets shadowed with Dark Grey oil paint. As for the collector exhaust ring & pipes, they initially were painted with FS3004 Matt Burnt Umber available by Life Color as LC37 acrylic and later repeatedly washed with dense oil paint mixture of “Vandyke Brown” available by Winsor & Newton, thinned with White Spirit to a consistency between a filter and a wash. Some Light Rust available by AK Interactive as AK046 filter also randomly brushed on exhaust pipes.
phantom II
Master at Arms
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
:woohoo: WOW !
Cheeers, Christian B)
:woohoo: WOW !
Cheeers, Christian B)
Nick_Karatzides
Member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
When powerplant paintjob looked OK to me, it was about time to attempt mounting both 7-cylinder radial engines as required - the first one onto helicopter’s tubular frame and the second one placed on the wheeled stand. As described into through pages #8 to #14 of the ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual (which can be found HERE as a downloadable PDF format file), the radial engine carefully inserted underneath the main tubular frame and placed in such way to align the engine’s four slots right onto the frame’s support beams. Since the nearby battery brackets were too fragile (only 0.4 mm thick), I had to avoid violent moves while installing engine to prevent plastic fracture. As soon as the four slots were simultaneously aligned onto the support beam heads, the engine slided backwards and secured in place by adding a drop of cyanoacrylate super glue.
The drive shaft inserted into the transmission unit’s upper opening as shown on the following pictures. The drive shaft designed as a mirrored part and therefore it can be installed either on one side or the other - no matter which side is the top and which is bottom. The transmission unit should be placed on the front of the engine block from which the drive shaft ran to upper gearbox. To do so, the block carefully inserted underneath the main tubular frame, placed in such way to align transmission’s rear opening against the 7-cylinder radial engine’s front end and secured in place by adding a drop of cyanoacrylate superglue.
When powerplant paintjob looked OK to me, it was about time to attempt mounting both 7-cylinder radial engines as required - the first one onto helicopter’s tubular frame and the second one placed on the wheeled stand. As described into through pages #8 to #14 of the ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual (which can be found HERE as a downloadable PDF format file), the radial engine carefully inserted underneath the main tubular frame and placed in such way to align the engine’s four slots right onto the frame’s support beams. Since the nearby battery brackets were too fragile (only 0.4 mm thick), I had to avoid violent moves while installing engine to prevent plastic fracture. As soon as the four slots were simultaneously aligned onto the support beam heads, the engine slided backwards and secured in place by adding a drop of cyanoacrylate super glue.
The drive shaft inserted into the transmission unit’s upper opening as shown on the following pictures. The drive shaft designed as a mirrored part and therefore it can be installed either on one side or the other - no matter which side is the top and which is bottom. The transmission unit should be placed on the front of the engine block from which the drive shaft ran to upper gearbox. To do so, the block carefully inserted underneath the main tubular frame, placed in such way to align transmission’s rear opening against the 7-cylinder radial engine’s front end and secured in place by adding a drop of cyanoacrylate superglue.
Nick_Karatzides
Member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
Well, it took approx 230 pictures and several thousand text words so far, to present the first actual plastic-to-plastic CA gluing. As previously mentioned into “CHAPTER III”, I prefer to follow the “paint individual parts first and assemble model later” rule, since I find it more appropriate and surely make my life easier. Seems like the WIP turns from CAD to traditional modeling now, isn’t it?
The wheeled stand for 2nd engine, also got painted with some random yellow acrylic paint and later weathered to look paint scraped, with faint areas of rust and a lot of dirt & oil stains.
Well, it took approx 230 pictures and several thousand text words so far, to present the first actual plastic-to-plastic CA gluing. As previously mentioned into “CHAPTER III”, I prefer to follow the “paint individual parts first and assemble model later” rule, since I find it more appropriate and surely make my life easier. Seems like the WIP turns from CAD to traditional modeling now, isn’t it?
The wheeled stand for 2nd engine, also got painted with some random yellow acrylic paint and later weathered to look paint scraped, with faint areas of rust and a lot of dirt & oil stains.
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
άριστη
Really nice work there.
Regards,
άριστη
Really nice work there.
Regards,
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
WOW! :woohoo:
And another
WOW! :woohoo:
for good measure. VERY nice!
WOW! :woohoo:
And another
WOW! :woohoo:
for good measure. VERY nice!
Nick_Karatzides
Member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
The engine’s cooling fan, proved to be the most controversial part of the kit. What really happened? Well, first things first: The Kolibri helicopter was equipped with an air-cooled 7-cylinders radial engine located inside the fuselage center-section and enclosed by outer skin. The powerplant should be efficiently cooled somehow to ensure proper & continuous operation. To do so, air was drawn in through openings beneath the fuselage by a wooden cooling fan with direct drive from powerplant provided strong air flow towards engine’s cylinders.
Despite the fact that “Luftwaffe Profile Series #6 Flettner Fl 282” ISBN 0-88740-921-0 book (released on 1996 by Schiffer Publishing, written by Theodor Muhr and originally publilshed on 1991 by Flugzeug Publikations GmbH under the title “Flugzeug Profile Flettner Fl 282 Kolibri Varianten”) says that “…continuous cooling provided by an eight-blade wooden cooling fan with direct drive from the engine…” (page #8), I could not find any front head view photograph of the so-called 8-bladed cooling fan.
On the other hand, Ryszard Witkowski author of the “Rotorcraft of 3rd Reich #5109” ISBN 978-83-89450-43-2 book (released on 2006 by MMP - Mushroom Model Publications), says that “…the engine was cooled by a wooden twelve-blade fan…” (page #24), which further complicates the question on the cooling fan issue. So, what type of cooling fan was actually fitted in front of the air-cooled 7-cylinders radial engine? Was it a 8-bladed wooden propeller or a 12-bladed? Or maybe none of the above?
To make things worst, the available diagrams are side-viewed and it’s not easy to say if the cooling fan is 2-bladed, 10-bladed or 50-bladed. IMHO, when it comes to “cooling” issue, I think that a multi-bladed fan would be more appropriate. Although a 6-bladed cooling fan had already been used on Flettner Fl-265 helicopter, the Deutsches Museum officials deny the 8-bladed or 12-bladed fan claim and they strongly support the 2-bladed propeller 90 cm Ø version - after all, they supposed to know better about Flettner 282, don’t they?
Furthermore, I spotted more errors and incorrect assumptions into the pages of the aforementioned books, which further strengthens my doubts about the accuracy of the given information. For example, it is written that Flettner 282 had not functional elevators and they were just “dummy” horizontal stabilizers bolted to fuselage frame, which is a huge mistake because blueprints, actual pictures & videos show the exact opposite. Also, it is written that all Kolibris from V20 to V24 versions were completed as two-seaters, which is also a false claim, according to Luftwaffe’s WWII and Anton Flettner Flugzeugbau GmbH files. Anyway, since I had not a clear evidence of an 8-bladed or a 12-bladed wooden propeller use on Kolibri helicopter and having in mind that both above mentioned books had already few mistakes written into pages, the multi-bladed wooden propeller story seems a little “questionable” and the 2-bladed cooling fan version is considered as the most “plausible”, just like appeared on the Focke Wulf FW-61 helicopter which already had a single 2-bladed propeller for engine air cooling. I hope my estimations / guesswork are correct and I will not have to publicly perform seppuku because of shame.
The engine’s cooling fan, proved to be the most controversial part of the kit. What really happened? Well, first things first: The Kolibri helicopter was equipped with an air-cooled 7-cylinders radial engine located inside the fuselage center-section and enclosed by outer skin. The powerplant should be efficiently cooled somehow to ensure proper & continuous operation. To do so, air was drawn in through openings beneath the fuselage by a wooden cooling fan with direct drive from powerplant provided strong air flow towards engine’s cylinders.
Despite the fact that “Luftwaffe Profile Series #6 Flettner Fl 282” ISBN 0-88740-921-0 book (released on 1996 by Schiffer Publishing, written by Theodor Muhr and originally publilshed on 1991 by Flugzeug Publikations GmbH under the title “Flugzeug Profile Flettner Fl 282 Kolibri Varianten”) says that “…continuous cooling provided by an eight-blade wooden cooling fan with direct drive from the engine…” (page #8), I could not find any front head view photograph of the so-called 8-bladed cooling fan.
On the other hand, Ryszard Witkowski author of the “Rotorcraft of 3rd Reich #5109” ISBN 978-83-89450-43-2 book (released on 2006 by MMP - Mushroom Model Publications), says that “…the engine was cooled by a wooden twelve-blade fan…” (page #24), which further complicates the question on the cooling fan issue. So, what type of cooling fan was actually fitted in front of the air-cooled 7-cylinders radial engine? Was it a 8-bladed wooden propeller or a 12-bladed? Or maybe none of the above?
To make things worst, the available diagrams are side-viewed and it’s not easy to say if the cooling fan is 2-bladed, 10-bladed or 50-bladed. IMHO, when it comes to “cooling” issue, I think that a multi-bladed fan would be more appropriate. Although a 6-bladed cooling fan had already been used on Flettner Fl-265 helicopter, the Deutsches Museum officials deny the 8-bladed or 12-bladed fan claim and they strongly support the 2-bladed propeller 90 cm Ø version - after all, they supposed to know better about Flettner 282, don’t they?
Furthermore, I spotted more errors and incorrect assumptions into the pages of the aforementioned books, which further strengthens my doubts about the accuracy of the given information. For example, it is written that Flettner 282 had not functional elevators and they were just “dummy” horizontal stabilizers bolted to fuselage frame, which is a huge mistake because blueprints, actual pictures & videos show the exact opposite. Also, it is written that all Kolibris from V20 to V24 versions were completed as two-seaters, which is also a false claim, according to Luftwaffe’s WWII and Anton Flettner Flugzeugbau GmbH files. Anyway, since I had not a clear evidence of an 8-bladed or a 12-bladed wooden propeller use on Kolibri helicopter and having in mind that both above mentioned books had already few mistakes written into pages, the multi-bladed wooden propeller story seems a little “questionable” and the 2-bladed cooling fan version is considered as the most “plausible”, just like appeared on the Focke Wulf FW-61 helicopter which already had a single 2-bladed propeller for engine air cooling. I hope my estimations / guesswork are correct and I will not have to publicly perform seppuku because of shame.
Nick_Karatzides
Member
1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuil
Once the radial engine mounting process completed, I would attempt to turn a pig’s ear to silk purse - in other words, to paint the 3D printed cooling fan in such way to look like made of wood. Since (as commented into previous paragraphs) I had not enough reference of the actual Kolibri’s cooling fan, I did what most modelers always do - improvise, hoping that final result would look nice! To do so, I used the Life Color UA716 Wood Warm light shade 2 acrylic paint, to overall spray the 2-bladed propeller. Once the acrylic base coat has cured, I used artists oil paints - actually a mixture of Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre and Raw Umber in a ratio of 25% to 25% to 50% - to simulate the wood grain and spread a thick layer of paint around. At this point the oils will be workable for several hours. Then, while using a clean & completely dry broad, hard brush, I dragged it over the oil paint, leaving wood grain streaks. As the brush picked up the paint, I wiped it off on a clean, lint free cloth. I left it alone to dry for 24 hours.
A day later, while oil paint was not fully dry, I used a clean soft brush to blend the streaks, just a little more. As soon as it looked OK to me, I left it few days more to dry completely and then spray it with Tamiya Color X-24 Clear Yellow acrylic, because it also helps bring the grain color out more.
The 2-bladed “wooden” propeller placed on the front end of the (previously installed) transmission block. So, this is how the assembled block of 7-cylinder radial engine, transmission unit, drive shaft & cooling fan should look like when correctly fit into each other.
Once the radial engine mounting process completed, I would attempt to turn a pig’s ear to silk purse - in other words, to paint the 3D printed cooling fan in such way to look like made of wood. Since (as commented into previous paragraphs) I had not enough reference of the actual Kolibri’s cooling fan, I did what most modelers always do - improvise, hoping that final result would look nice! To do so, I used the Life Color UA716 Wood Warm light shade 2 acrylic paint, to overall spray the 2-bladed propeller. Once the acrylic base coat has cured, I used artists oil paints - actually a mixture of Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre and Raw Umber in a ratio of 25% to 25% to 50% - to simulate the wood grain and spread a thick layer of paint around. At this point the oils will be workable for several hours. Then, while using a clean & completely dry broad, hard brush, I dragged it over the oil paint, leaving wood grain streaks. As the brush picked up the paint, I wiped it off on a clean, lint free cloth. I left it alone to dry for 24 hours.
A day later, while oil paint was not fully dry, I used a clean soft brush to blend the streaks, just a little more. As soon as it looked OK to me, I left it few days more to dry completely and then spray it with Tamiya Color X-24 Clear Yellow acrylic, because it also helps bring the grain color out more.
The 2-bladed “wooden” propeller placed on the front end of the (previously installed) transmission block. So, this is how the assembled block of 7-cylinder radial engine, transmission unit, drive shaft & cooling fan should look like when correctly fit into each other.