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Vallejo pigments
- Thread starter Paulw
- Start date
Well...what do you want to do with them Paul? What I'm kinda learning about pigments is there's no one way you can make use of them. It's almost another medium (you artsy guys let me know if I"m using the wrong term here). You can apply them in so many different ways, mix up some glossy thick base with some pigments and you got wet mud. Spreed it around with some spirits and when dry it's dusty and you got everything in between.
That would be my short answer and considering my success rate with pigments I'd really be interested in other answers cause, like, what do I know. :idonno :idonno
That would be my short answer and considering my success rate with pigments I'd really be interested in other answers cause, like, what do I know. :idonno :idonno
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
I'm still on a learning curve for pigments. I'm finding uses more and more. Vallejo clear sticks them down good. (I really thin it as the last time) Ken Abrams had some really good videos on YouTube, but I guess they got pulled. Maybe PM him he does wonders with pigments.
reconron
Active member
Vallejo,MIG Productions,AK interactive,AMMO of MIG,...they all have their powder Pigments.
And ofcourse there is a good chance of finding powder Pigments in the Art Hobby Supply Shop.
They all are similar in their use,you might want to use them for weathering on vehicles,figures,groundwork and aircraft.
Dust,mud,soot,rust,snow,sand,fungus stains,streaking,rainmarks,engine grime...it can all be done with pigments.
Using it dry with a brush,in a Pigment Wash with added Enamel Thinners,in Acrylic Resin,...sooooo many ways on how to use them.
You can use Enamel Thinner for a semi-permanent fixation (so you still can remove it with Enamel Thinner if you are not happy with the results)
OR use Pigment Fixer,most Pigment Brands have their own,OR use Varnish,OR White (carpenters) Glue.
Weathering figures with pigments:
Here is some groundwork before adding pigments:
Yes the blanket also got some pigment pow(d)er.
And after adding pigments:
On tanks:
Oh heck,I enjoy playing around with pigments,that much,that I even will add them where nobody will see them
:laugh: :
Dust effects are really simple using pigments:
Best thing to do:Experiment with them!
[sup]the downside.....I'm hooked on them now.[/sup] :laugh:
Greetings,Ron.
And ofcourse there is a good chance of finding powder Pigments in the Art Hobby Supply Shop.
They all are similar in their use,you might want to use them for weathering on vehicles,figures,groundwork and aircraft.
Dust,mud,soot,rust,snow,sand,fungus stains,streaking,rainmarks,engine grime...it can all be done with pigments.
Using it dry with a brush,in a Pigment Wash with added Enamel Thinners,in Acrylic Resin,...sooooo many ways on how to use them.
You can use Enamel Thinner for a semi-permanent fixation (so you still can remove it with Enamel Thinner if you are not happy with the results)
OR use Pigment Fixer,most Pigment Brands have their own,OR use Varnish,OR White (carpenters) Glue.
Weathering figures with pigments:
Here is some groundwork before adding pigments:
Yes the blanket also got some pigment pow(d)er.
And after adding pigments:
On tanks:
Oh heck,I enjoy playing around with pigments,that much,that I even will add them where nobody will see them
:laugh: :
Dust effects are really simple using pigments:
Best thing to do:Experiment with them!
[sup]the downside.....I'm hooked on them now.[/sup] :laugh:
Greetings,Ron.
Nailed it Ron!
Remember when using Enamel thinner as the carrier for pigments you want to apply against an acrylic topcoat. Basically what ever carrier you're using should be of dissimilar medium than whatever is your top layer.
Remember when using Enamel thinner as the carrier for pigments you want to apply against an acrylic topcoat. Basically what ever carrier you're using should be of dissimilar medium than whatever is your top layer.
reconron
Active member
Good point,MP!
Also you will find out that dry Pigment powders will stick to flat paint coats very well,without the extra use of Pigment Fixer.
So it might be a good idea to cover the parts from a gloss coated model,that you want pigments on with a flat coat (on the parts you want to add pigments on).
Greetings,Ron.
reconron
Active member
Thanks Ron, Thats what I need, another drug to run my life.
Just stick to coffee,Paul....And,and,and you will,will,be fi-fi fine! :java :yipee :yipee :yipee
One other thing to remember...
Once you've applied dry pigments and you are in love with the way it looks,
DO NOT spray a clear coat to seal them, they will all but disappear.
I think it's best to apply them as the very last step, when you won't be handling the
model much any more.
Tom
Once you've applied dry pigments and you are in love with the way it looks,
DO NOT spray a clear coat to seal them, they will all but disappear.
I think it's best to apply them as the very last step, when you won't be handling the
model much any more.
Tom
Tom is there any way to secure that dry application? I've done it in the past and found that a stiff wind blows it off.
Hey Moon
Like Ron said, if applied to a flat, as opposed to glossy, surface they will stick pretty good.
Use an old brush and really scrub them in.
Or you can use one of the pigment fixers. Apply your pigments, then touch the edges with a brush
loaded with the fixer. It will wick into the dry pigments. It will also darken them considerably,
but then lighten up again when dry. You may also get tide marks doing this, but they can be scrubbed
away with a dry brush.
Art stores sell a fixative spray, to be sprayed on pastel chalk drawings and such, but I haven't
tried the stuff.
Tom
Like Ron said, if applied to a flat, as opposed to glossy, surface they will stick pretty good.
Use an old brush and really scrub them in.
Or you can use one of the pigment fixers. Apply your pigments, then touch the edges with a brush
loaded with the fixer. It will wick into the dry pigments. It will also darken them considerably,
but then lighten up again when dry. You may also get tide marks doing this, but they can be scrubbed
away with a dry brush.
Art stores sell a fixative spray, to be sprayed on pastel chalk drawings and such, but I haven't
tried the stuff.
Tom
reconron
Active member
Yes Sirs,don't know if you guys in the States can get it,but Talens makes some:
No doubt that in the States you can get a similar product if Talens isn't available.
Greetings,Ron.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Ok, folks I'm wondering what all this chatter is about ? :idonno
Here is what I just did , with pastels .
It has been sealed with an airbrush . Not sure it even faded.
If you're piling on pigment, I know for sure that a bit of white spirit will fix it .
PM . me if you have any questions
Cheers, Christian
Here is what I just did , with pastels .
It has been sealed with an airbrush . Not sure it even faded.
If you're piling on pigment, I know for sure that a bit of white spirit will fix it .
PM . me if you have any questions
Cheers, Christian
:smack
Why PM!? Keep it out in public so we all can learn. :facepalm
So your pastels don't wash out when sealed?
What did you seal it with? If you say sealant I'm coming up there to :smack
reconron
Active member
Ok, folks I'm wondering what all this chatter is about ? :idonno
Here is what I just did , with pastels .
It has been sealed with an airbrush . Not sure it even faded.
If you're piling on pigment, I know for sure that a bit of white spirit will fix it .
PM . me if you have any questions
Cheers, Christian
Looks fine to my armor eyes,Christian!
I used to use pastel chalk before I began to use Pigments,as a matter of fact sometimes I'm still using pastels.
HOWEVER genuine Pigments are superb compared to pastels.You are having a MUCH better coverage with them.
You can make your own Oil paint with Pigments by just adding Linseed Oil.(that doesn't work with Pastel Chalk) The great 16th and 17th century Master painters,
did just the same,as paint didn't come ready to use,at that time.
White Spirit is just one of the several ways to fix pigments,most of the time I'm sticking to the MIG Productions Pigment Fixer (for a permanent fixation)if I want a semi-permanent fixation,I'm using Enamel Thinners...there are sooooo many ways to fix pigments.
:drinks
Greetings,Ron.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Ok, folks I'm wondering what all this chatter is about ? :idonno
Here is what I just did , with pastels .
It has been sealed with an airbrush . Not sure it even faded.
If you're piling on pigment, I know for sure that a bit of white spirit will fix it .
PM . me if you have any questions
Cheers, Christian
Looks fine to my armor eyes,Christian!
I used to use pastel chalk before I began to use Pigments,as a matter of fact sometimes I'm still using pastels.
HOWEVER genuine Pigments are superb compared to pastels.You are having a MUCH better coverage with them.
You can make your own Oil paint with Pigments by just adding Linseed Oil.(that doesn't work with Pastel Chalk) The great 16th and 17th century Master painters,
did just the same,as paint didn't come ready to use,at that time.
White Spirit is just one of the several ways to fix pigments,most of the time I'm sticking to the MIG Productions Pigment Fixer (for a permanent fixation)if I want a semi-permanent fixation,I'm using Enamel Thinners...there are sooooo many ways to fix pigments.
:drinks
Greetings,Ron.
I agree Ron . I started using pigments a few years back . They are considerably stronger than the pastel color.
I have also been experimenting with different spirits . The white spirits is what the AK. CD talked about.
I suspect it is the same as the MIG products .
Bob, there are so many possible explanations to pastels and pigments it's hard to explain even the ones I have experimented with.
As far as fixing them , I have used a number of products . They all have a different strength .
IE , the AK spirits is stronger than the Walmart odorless mineral spirits but I have also used enamel thinners such as Humbrol ( which stinks to high Heaven ) Even the MM thinner works.
Can't remember if alcohol does or not.
Bear in mind I always finish with a clear coat . Did it for many years with with Future or Future &Tamiya flatbase.
Anymore I use Vallejo Matt varnish or one of the Testor dullcoat or gloss coats.
Anyhow, answer are complex . If this is not enough info PM me with specific question .
PS. I have not tried the Vallejo pigments but they should be similar .
Cheers,Christian B)
