That's not a gap, it's an expansion joint...
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USS Missouri build 2018
- Thread starter MM2CVS9
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Having read of others builds with the wooden decks, I would suggest the deck first then the PE.
UNLESS...
The PE for some reason goes under the deck for an attachment or something similar. The instructions can be a real pain in the cannoli when there are a lot of parts.
UNLESS...
The PE for some reason goes under the deck for an attachment or something similar. The instructions can be a real pain in the cannoli when there are a lot of parts.
MM2CVS9
Active member
Interesting thought. I've found that some of the "flat" spots have a plastic overlay part and some others do not, just do da parts stuck on. So, I need to remove detail from the plastic overlays and place them, then attach the PE. At this stage, I don't know what space there is for fit. The PE parts fit up from the deck to the top of the bulkhead section perfectly, so there has to be space around the wood deck edges for them to slide in after the deck is applied. The spots marked in red get PE overlays, the spot on the left a plastic part, then the overlay, the spot on the right, Just the PE.
The PE part on the left actually gets 7 more pieces of PE applied to it as well.
So, here's the order I'm gonna try. Strip details as required from the plastic overlay parts and apply them. When I get that all done for the after deck section, I'll apply the wood deck section, then install the PE parts, pushing them into the space (if there is one) between the wood and the plastic bulkhead. If that doesn't work, then I'll try applying the Plastic and the PE before attaching the wood.
Hafta really look closly at every single area before sticking anything on. Seems the flat PE and the flat plastic areas both get PE surface details added to them after.
EJ
The PE part on the left actually gets 7 more pieces of PE applied to it as well.
So, here's the order I'm gonna try. Strip details as required from the plastic overlay parts and apply them. When I get that all done for the after deck section, I'll apply the wood deck section, then install the PE parts, pushing them into the space (if there is one) between the wood and the plastic bulkhead. If that doesn't work, then I'll try applying the Plastic and the PE before attaching the wood.
Hafta really look closly at every single area before sticking anything on. Seems the flat PE and the flat plastic areas both get PE surface details added to them after.
EJ
MM2CVS9
Active member
OK. Stripped the two plastic parts of detail, then glued them on. Trimmed off the foredeck from the wood sheet and did a kinda test fit. They seem to fit pretty tight to any vertical surfaces, so I'm still not sure about getting the PE in there. The PE part for the bow at the anchor chain area just fits perfect, but, I found it does not cover the top edges of the hull sides, just the deck itself. I nicked the edges of the deck a bit scraping it off so it left little openings. To be safe, I puttied all around the edge and sanded smooth. Then glued on four parts that needed to be placed before the wood deck goes on.
The PE part at the bow is not glued on yet, just wanted to see how it fit.
The painting of the wood deck - I tried Model Master 20 B deck blue acrylic, thinned and brushed. It came out way to grey. Then tried Model master 20B deck blue enamel, thinned and sprayed. Still didn't look right. Then found an old bottle of Polly Scale 20B acrylic, thinned 4 parts paint to 2 parts thinner and airbrushed it on. I think it looks good. The etched planking shows nicely and it still looks like wood. We'll see how it holds up when I try to put it on.
There is a piece that has not been painted and three test pieces. The two big ones and the small one on the lower right are the keepers.
Tomorrow, I'm gonna start painting the hull, boot top first, anti-fouling red next, then the two greys - 5N lower up to the lowest part of the main deck, and 5H above that. Then I'll mask the top edges of the hull and spray 20B weatherdeck blue along the very edge where the railings will sit to get ready to apply the wood.
EJ
The PE part at the bow is not glued on yet, just wanted to see how it fit.
The painting of the wood deck - I tried Model Master 20 B deck blue acrylic, thinned and brushed. It came out way to grey. Then tried Model master 20B deck blue enamel, thinned and sprayed. Still didn't look right. Then found an old bottle of Polly Scale 20B acrylic, thinned 4 parts paint to 2 parts thinner and airbrushed it on. I think it looks good. The etched planking shows nicely and it still looks like wood. We'll see how it holds up when I try to put it on.
There is a piece that has not been painted and three test pieces. The two big ones and the small one on the lower right are the keepers.
Tomorrow, I'm gonna start painting the hull, boot top first, anti-fouling red next, then the two greys - 5N lower up to the lowest part of the main deck, and 5H above that. Then I'll mask the top edges of the hull and spray 20B weatherdeck blue along the very edge where the railings will sit to get ready to apply the wood.
EJ
Challenging...
MM2CVS9
Active member
Some paints for the Missouri build. Seems the MM 4200 series of ship colors is gone. A few colors are available in the 4800 paint series. I ordered the ones I needed for this build and then some. The anti-fouling red is no longer available I guess. I ordered a German red, but the color is way off, almost a mauve color? I've got some White Ensign though, so I'll be ok there. It doesn't seem that any of the other paint companies (except White Ensign in oil base) have any ship color lines. I'm terrible at mixing colors. If it doesn't come out of the bottle the shade I need, I'm in trouble.
EJ
EJ
MM2CVS9
Active member
Yesterday, washed with an old product from Polyscale called Plastic Prep. Is 40% isopropal alchohol, 55% water and 5% Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether - whatever that is. I've used this for years and it works for me. I'm down to about the last 7 oz. and I don't think Testors makes it anymore, so I'll just use it up.
After cleaning, sprayed a coat of Tamaya fine primer (lt grey), touch sanded a couple dust bits off and re sprayed those areas, left to dry overnite. I'm glad I made my spray booth 36" wide as this baby fills it up.
Today, sprayed a swath of black boot top on her. Model Master #4227 Black Boot top, (now discontinued) Kind of a semi gloss black. I'll let that dry overnite too.
Also looked over some of the kit parts that get replaced with Brass or PE and marked up the plans/instructions for later.
EJ
After cleaning, sprayed a coat of Tamaya fine primer (lt grey), touch sanded a couple dust bits off and re sprayed those areas, left to dry overnite. I'm glad I made my spray booth 36" wide as this baby fills it up.
Today, sprayed a swath of black boot top on her. Model Master #4227 Black Boot top, (now discontinued) Kind of a semi gloss black. I'll let that dry overnite too.
Also looked over some of the kit parts that get replaced with Brass or PE and marked up the plans/instructions for later.
EJ
MM2CVS9
Active member
Masked off for the boot top (waterline). I use for the edges, masking film from Gators. He used to sell a sheet that was precut in several different widths and strips about 36" long. It's the same vinyl stuff he uses for cutting aircraft paint masks I think. Even the "waste" was good for masking. Left a nice clean edge. I don't think he makes them anymore.
After marking the edges of the boot top, I applied a strip of mask along each edge, widening it at the stern so the top and bottom of the stripe is level, even though the stripe actually gets wider. Then, fill in the gap with Tamiya tape, completely covering the area that will be the boot top.
Then add some wide tape to shield the upper hull and spay the bottom. I used White Ensign 65A anti-fouling red, from Snyder & Short. I really like the color and it sprays great. I thinned it about 50% with lacquer thinner. I've got 7 tins of this stuff left. I sure wish someone would duplicate this shade and the more modern anti-fouling red in acrylic paint, like the one Model Master USED to have.
Let it dry overnite, then do the upper hull.
EJ
After marking the edges of the boot top, I applied a strip of mask along each edge, widening it at the stern so the top and bottom of the stripe is level, even though the stripe actually gets wider. Then, fill in the gap with Tamiya tape, completely covering the area that will be the boot top.
Then add some wide tape to shield the upper hull and spay the bottom. I used White Ensign 65A anti-fouling red, from Snyder & Short. I really like the color and it sprays great. I thinned it about 50% with lacquer thinner. I've got 7 tins of this stuff left. I sure wish someone would duplicate this shade and the more modern anti-fouling red in acrylic paint, like the one Model Master USED to have.
Let it dry overnite, then do the upper hull.
EJ
Duke Maddog
Well-known member
Beautiful work, especially on something that large! Way to go!
MM2CVS9
Active member
Got a bit of painting done between family Christmas stuff. It took about 4 days for the red enamel to cure before I dared mask over it.
Then, I re masked to spray the 5N Navy blue -
Then remasked again for the 5H haze grey -
Then remasked once more to spray a narrow 20B deck blue around the deck edges where the wood will not cover and the railings sit and sprayed that.
I removed the masking starting on the deck that was to keep off the overspray. The narrow strip turned out just fine.
But - I was rushing it. When I pulled the masking off from the Haze grey, the paint pulled off too. I just couldn't wait overnite for it to cure, so now I'll have to wait, then do some sanding and respray that little bit of haze grey on the top hull bow.
Geeze!!!!. And I so wanted to get the wood deck on tomorrow. That's what I get I guess.
EJ
Then, I re masked to spray the 5N Navy blue -
Then remasked again for the 5H haze grey -
Then remasked once more to spray a narrow 20B deck blue around the deck edges where the wood will not cover and the railings sit and sprayed that.
I removed the masking starting on the deck that was to keep off the overspray. The narrow strip turned out just fine.
But - I was rushing it. When I pulled the masking off from the Haze grey, the paint pulled off too. I just couldn't wait overnite for it to cure, so now I'll have to wait, then do some sanding and respray that little bit of haze grey on the top hull bow.
Geeze!!!!. And I so wanted to get the wood deck on tomorrow. That's what I get I guess.
EJ
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I guess that is part of why I build so slow. I glue parts together and set them aside for next time. Paint it and set it aside for next time. (clean the airbrush up quick though)
As to the paint pulling off, sorry to see your tribulations. I have learned a lot from my mistakes like this and try not to do them. Thing is I usually learn something new, odd and interesting through the fix it process.
Carry on, you will get it fixed just fine I am sure.
As to the paint pulling off, sorry to see your tribulations. I have learned a lot from my mistakes like this and try not to do them. Thing is I usually learn something new, odd and interesting through the fix it process.
Carry on, you will get it fixed just fine I am sure.
MM2CVS9
Active member
Thanks.
Yesterday, I sanded the peeled part, a little masking and decanted some Tamiya primer so I could touch it up lightly with the airbrush. Came out nice, with no edges showing through.
Today I'll respray the 5H haze grey.
I did do some prep work, getting all the little punch outs done on the wood deck, adding a couple raised parts to the plastic deck and prepping some of the bulkhead PE. I'm gonna clean and etch the PE in some vinegar before I prime it.
I'm really getting itchy to place the two main deck wood sheets - but, I'm gonna paint and WAIT this time before I mess with it.
EJ
Yesterday, I sanded the peeled part, a little masking and decanted some Tamiya primer so I could touch it up lightly with the airbrush. Came out nice, with no edges showing through.
Today I'll respray the 5H haze grey.
I did do some prep work, getting all the little punch outs done on the wood deck, adding a couple raised parts to the plastic deck and prepping some of the bulkhead PE. I'm gonna clean and etch the PE in some vinegar before I prime it.
I'm really getting itchy to place the two main deck wood sheets - but, I'm gonna paint and WAIT this time before I mess with it.
EJ
MM2CVS9
Active member
Today I re-did the haze grey and touched up the 5N. Waited about an hour, then removed all the masking. With a teeny bit of scraping here and there with a #11 and a touch up in a couple spots with a #0000 brush, it looks pretty good.
The stern, where the boot top gets wider, turned out really nice.
The bow, where the peeled booger was -
There's little specks that showed up in the pictures. They are paint flakes that popped off the vinyl masking when I removed it. I tried brushing them off, but static seems to be holding them, although they do move around. I need to "de-staticise" the thing.
Tomorrow, I'm gonna hang a clear coat on the hull to somewhat protect the paint job, then the next day, apply the wood deck to the main deck area.
I'm getting antsy to do that.
EJ
The stern, where the boot top gets wider, turned out really nice.
The bow, where the peeled booger was -
There's little specks that showed up in the pictures. They are paint flakes that popped off the vinyl masking when I removed it. I tried brushing them off, but static seems to be holding them, although they do move around. I need to "de-staticise" the thing.
Tomorrow, I'm gonna hang a clear coat on the hull to somewhat protect the paint job, then the next day, apply the wood deck to the main deck area.
I'm getting antsy to do that.
EJ
Beautiful lines...
MM2CVS9
Active member
I let the clear sealer coat over the paint job cure for two days. Today - apply the wood deck. I'm very apprehensive about it as I've not done it before. A trick I found on the forums was to spray water on the plastic deck and on the sticky backing of the wood deck. Seems counter-intuitive but worth a try.
By placing the wood around the plastic projections on the deck, it guides it in place pretty well. Then, gradually push it down around everything, smoothing out the open areas with my finger and the edges pushed down with a burnishing tool. The only place I had trouble was around the stern gun tubs. It fit very tightly there. I might have to touch up the paint on the wood there. Took a while to smooth it all out, but amazingly, the adhesive stuck very well. I had no issues even along the deck edges. I'm quite amazed at the overall fit though.
The wood fits up VERY tightly around the deck furniture and against the main deck bulkheads. I really had to work at getting the PE on after the deck was finished without bending it all up. Turned out ok though I think. I'm using a new to me CA glue called Flexy 5K. It's supposed to have something in it to make it less brittle, plus it takes a bit more time to kick so it can be adjusted some if needed during part application. Seems to work pretty well for me.
The aft deck section done;
Close up;
The bow section prepped;
Close up;
All the bits (most, anyway, removed;
The rest of the main deck PE cut out;
And primed. I soak it in vinegar to etch the brass a bit before priming with Tamiya aerosol primer, seems to help adhesion;
Nice detail on the stuff.
I'm gonna let the deck dry overnite and rub it down one more time. The primer on the PE will have kicked too, so hopefully the fore deck will go on at least as well as this one did. I'm gonna apply the PE first though, to eliminate the issue of forcing it in between the wood and the plastic. Hopefully, it won't make the wood fight to tight and cause an issue there. The rest of the wood parts are quite a bit smaller so should be easier to handle.
EJ
By placing the wood around the plastic projections on the deck, it guides it in place pretty well. Then, gradually push it down around everything, smoothing out the open areas with my finger and the edges pushed down with a burnishing tool. The only place I had trouble was around the stern gun tubs. It fit very tightly there. I might have to touch up the paint on the wood there. Took a while to smooth it all out, but amazingly, the adhesive stuck very well. I had no issues even along the deck edges. I'm quite amazed at the overall fit though.
The wood fits up VERY tightly around the deck furniture and against the main deck bulkheads. I really had to work at getting the PE on after the deck was finished without bending it all up. Turned out ok though I think. I'm using a new to me CA glue called Flexy 5K. It's supposed to have something in it to make it less brittle, plus it takes a bit more time to kick so it can be adjusted some if needed during part application. Seems to work pretty well for me.
The aft deck section done;
Close up;
The bow section prepped;
Close up;
All the bits (most, anyway, removed;
The rest of the main deck PE cut out;
And primed. I soak it in vinegar to etch the brass a bit before priming with Tamiya aerosol primer, seems to help adhesion;
Nice detail on the stuff.
I'm gonna let the deck dry overnite and rub it down one more time. The primer on the PE will have kicked too, so hopefully the fore deck will go on at least as well as this one did. I'm gonna apply the PE first though, to eliminate the issue of forcing it in between the wood and the plastic. Hopefully, it won't make the wood fight to tight and cause an issue there. The rest of the wood parts are quite a bit smaller so should be easier to handle.
EJ
VERY nice EJ..
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looks like an excellent job EJ!
The trick with the water goes back a ways. I remember applying window tint to window glass and it was recommended to use water with a couple of drops of soap to help wet it. Same process as you used with the wood deck. I have seen the same process with any sticker type application on glass or even cars.
The trick with the water goes back a ways. I remember applying window tint to window glass and it was recommended to use water with a couple of drops of soap to help wet it. Same process as you used with the wood deck. I have seen the same process with any sticker type application on glass or even cars.