I started this kit back in 2009...
Regards,
Regards,
-
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TMD's T-34 STZ 1942 Build
- Thread starter Sharkmouth
- Start date
TMD's instructions mention that there is an issue with their master which causes a warp on the hull top. A slow visual inspection revealed what the actual culprit was...
Here we see that the roof is raised in the center.
Another warp...
We effect the repair by cutting the roof free from the glacis plate. I am using a Tatra razor saw (clones are sold by UMM and CMK).
The repair is completed and a weld covers the gap caused by the razor's kerf.
The rear plate's frame was cracked when it arrived. It is an easy fix but I would not be needing it since I planned to put the upper rear plate in place. So I will remove it.
See the shadow across the top of the frame? This should have been a tell-tale sign of the fit issue I would encounter next.
I scraped with the back of the knife.
These laser cut razor blades work really well here with a narrow kerf.
More to come....
Regards,
Here we see that the roof is raised in the center.
Another warp...
We effect the repair by cutting the roof free from the glacis plate. I am using a Tatra razor saw (clones are sold by UMM and CMK).
The repair is completed and a weld covers the gap caused by the razor's kerf.
The rear plate's frame was cracked when it arrived. It is an easy fix but I would not be needing it since I planned to put the upper rear plate in place. So I will remove it.
See the shadow across the top of the frame? This should have been a tell-tale sign of the fit issue I would encounter next.
I scraped with the back of the knife.
These laser cut razor blades work really well here with a narrow kerf.
More to come....
Regards,
Clean up continues...
Removed frame...
Using my rare plasma cutter. Only kidding about the plasma light heating the knife. It is just a heavy knife I prefer from Generation Tools which has a built in light.
I usually scrape with the back of the blade then pierce it and cut as you see here. If the flash is thicker, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the center and work towards the edges.
End result...
Nipping the sides into manageable sections...
which are removed.
I opened up the visors to get acrylic 'armored glass' inserts later.
Uh oh! The rear plate doesn't fit!
The front is slightly warped but does click into place.
I had to lengthen the notch on the upper outer edges to midway between the third and fourth bolts. Not done yet.
More work to make the plate fit.
Hey, it fits!
More still coming.
Regards,
Removed frame...
Using my rare plasma cutter. Only kidding about the plasma light heating the knife. It is just a heavy knife I prefer from Generation Tools which has a built in light.
I usually scrape with the back of the blade then pierce it and cut as you see here. If the flash is thicker, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the center and work towards the edges.
End result...
Nipping the sides into manageable sections...
which are removed.
I opened up the visors to get acrylic 'armored glass' inserts later.
Uh oh! The rear plate doesn't fit!
The front is slightly warped but does click into place.
I had to lengthen the notch on the upper outer edges to midway between the third and fourth bolts. Not done yet.
More work to make the plate fit.
Hey, it fits!
More still coming.
Regards,
When I began the kit, I considered adding an interior. Before me are three sets. The one from Tank Workshop is very simplified and does have some errors. Trakz makes a VERY nice one for the early T-34.
The last is the interior from the AFV Club T-34-76 Zavod 112 kit.
Looking them all over and realizing how little will be seen through the hatches and around the figures, I opted to save the better sets for other kits and used the one from TWS designed for the Dragon kit.
I used a 1mm (0.039 inch) brass bolts from Scale Hardware for this missing detail.
The road wheels were removed from the casting blocks and airbrushed lightly with Tamiya Hull Red. I then cleared each opening and the edges of the flash. The center portion will be painted a dark brown/gray mixture to represent the rubber in the bushing.
Before assembly, I will airbrush another coat of Tamiya Hull Red and follow it with a dark green near the outer edges. After assembly, I will carefully sand the outer edges.
As you can see, I am still plugging away at the kit. It is not difficult. My only hurdle is finding time, even one uninterrupted hour, to give to this build!
The tracks match the plans in Frontline Illustrated T-34s from STZ book (these also appear in the Polish language Wydawnictwo Militaria Tank Power T-34 Vol II book).
With short pins on one track and corresponding recesses in the other, they tracks can be made to snap together...
The roof plate is a separate piece. some light file work ensured a good fit.
I drilled out all the ports on the mantlet.
While I do have metal barrels, the resin one is fine and I will use a rifling insert form On The Mark Models.
a lot of choices to be made. TMD has included ice cleats in resin. I also have them in photo-etched brass from Orange Hobby.
Other choices to be made include tracks. In the intervening years, I have picked up a few STZ tracks from Masterclub.
The roadwheels also require attention as TMD's kit is of a late 1942 production and the Italian one chosen is an early 1942 production.
More choices! Photo-etched mud guards from Voyager Models. However, the resin items have nicely done round tie down loops and spot welds.
More lined up.
Regards,
The last is the interior from the AFV Club T-34-76 Zavod 112 kit.
Looking them all over and realizing how little will be seen through the hatches and around the figures, I opted to save the better sets for other kits and used the one from TWS designed for the Dragon kit.
I used a 1mm (0.039 inch) brass bolts from Scale Hardware for this missing detail.
The road wheels were removed from the casting blocks and airbrushed lightly with Tamiya Hull Red. I then cleared each opening and the edges of the flash. The center portion will be painted a dark brown/gray mixture to represent the rubber in the bushing.
Before assembly, I will airbrush another coat of Tamiya Hull Red and follow it with a dark green near the outer edges. After assembly, I will carefully sand the outer edges.
As you can see, I am still plugging away at the kit. It is not difficult. My only hurdle is finding time, even one uninterrupted hour, to give to this build!
The tracks match the plans in Frontline Illustrated T-34s from STZ book (these also appear in the Polish language Wydawnictwo Militaria Tank Power T-34 Vol II book).
With short pins on one track and corresponding recesses in the other, they tracks can be made to snap together...
The roof plate is a separate piece. some light file work ensured a good fit.
I drilled out all the ports on the mantlet.
While I do have metal barrels, the resin one is fine and I will use a rifling insert form On The Mark Models.
a lot of choices to be made. TMD has included ice cleats in resin. I also have them in photo-etched brass from Orange Hobby.
Other choices to be made include tracks. In the intervening years, I have picked up a few STZ tracks from Masterclub.
The roadwheels also require attention as TMD's kit is of a late 1942 production and the Italian one chosen is an early 1942 production.
More choices! Photo-etched mud guards from Voyager Models. However, the resin items have nicely done round tie down loops and spot welds.
More lined up.
Regards,
To use the resin mudguards, simply dip in almost boiling water and remove slowly.
Even more choices...
Resin CMD STZ wheels...
Regards,
Even more choices...
Resin CMD STZ wheels...
Regards,
Good clean up and surgery Saul, what's the next step?
To build like a regular kit! Of course, I need to finish my CTA2 entries first.
Regards,
mike walsh
Master at Arms
Wow ,
You have done a lot of work on this baby and it is coming along nicely .
Well done , look forward to seeing more.
Thanks
Michael
You have done a lot of work on this baby and it is coming along nicely .
Well done , look forward to seeing more.
Thanks
Michael
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