Tenax7

[moon puppy]

I swung by the hobby shop the other day while I was out running :frantic and asked if they had any Tenax7. Dave the owner looked but had none and said they are out of business. I know we had this rumor a while back which turned out false but really, I can't find it anywhere online.

What about it, has Tenax7 officially gone under?

Well after posting this I check for a website, sure nuff.
http://www.tenax-7r.com/
I sent message asking what's up, let you know what I get back.

 

[Old Dog]

I recently went looking and found some on Amazon, turns out it was being sold through Mega Hobby, ordered four bottles and had it a couple days later.

 

[moon puppy]

SWEET! thanks Gary.

 

[Paulw]

Flexifile's Plastiweld is the same chemical compound as Tenax and is much less expensive at twice the amount.

 

[moon puppy]

But it's not as hot Tenax for me. Seems to take longer curing.

 

[Adam Baker]

My drug of choice is Ambroid Pro-Weld, and I've noticed the last couple of times I was in my local Hobby Town that they havent had it, just the Plastruct stuff, which I dont like as much. Seems to be not as hot as the Ambroid.

Unfortunately it's showing up on Amazon as Currently Unavailable. Thankfully I've currently got about a 2/3 full bottle and a 1/2 full bottle, so I'm good for now.

 

[SA Dave]

Ambroid Pro-Weld

That sounds like an hemoroid cream does it not

 

[Sharkmouth]

These are the ones I use:

The order of preference -

1. Tamiya Green Cap - brush
2. Methylene Chloride - Touch-n-Flow #1
3. Testors Model Master - tracks or tacking prior to using the aforementioned.
4. Tenax 7R - with Touch-n-Flow #2
5. Testors Liquid Cement
6. Plastruct Bondene - when using Plastruct ABS.
7. Plastruct Weldene - when building with my son.
8. Not shown and no longer used, Tamiya Orange Cap

Regards,

 

[moon puppy]

No reply from email sent. Still don't know if they are still making it or not.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Hey guys! I have been meaning to do a review/comarison piece on a bunch of the liquid solvent type glues, but it is in the "someday" pile along with a number of other things.

I ca pass on a bit of info on some of the solvents that Sharkmouth showed. The Tenax 7, Ambroid Pro-weld, and my fav Weld-on 3, all use Methylene Chloride as the solvent. The Testors in the bottle is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) for a solvent and it isn't nearly as hot. While I have seen the Tamiya solvents, I have been happy with the ones I currently use.

As to the price for the Tenax it was about $5 for the bottle which was the smallest of the bunch. I liked the size of the Pro-Weld bottle better and it seemed to be a little less expensive. The best bang for the buck was a 16oz can of Weld-on 3 for a bit over $10 !! :woohoo:

I punch a small hole in the metal can seal and use a glass syringe with a LONG needle to transfer Weld-on to my Ambroid bottle. Weld on is usuallu carried by the acrylic plastic supply houses (commercial grade stuff). I usually buy a new can at a place I know of in Tulsa when I go back for a visit. Lasts a nice long time.

 

[moon puppy]

Googleing (or is it Googling? ) Weld-on 3, see it's not avaliable in CA, sorry guys!

Well I just ordered 4 bottles Tenax from Megahobby and got ship notice today but will check out the Weld-on product. Paul you think it's as hot as Tenax?

 

[The Zod]

May I inquire what is good about Tenex7?

 

[Iron Mike]

When you leave the cap off, it goes POOF! :laugh:

 

[moon puppy]

May I inquire what is good about Tenex7?

It's a great bonding agent. I think folks who have had bad experience with it may not have used it right. You don't prep the part with some of it and then place it. You place the part where you want it then flow some of the Tenax into the joint. You can see the plastic melt together and even apply pressure and see these little bubbles of molten plastic squeeze out, do it right and it will almost eliminate a seam line.

But if you put some one a part and then place it where it needs to be, most likely it will evaporate before you get it on target.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Googleing (or is it Googling? ) Weld-on 3, see it's not avaliable in CA, sorry guys!

Well I just ordered 4 bottles Tenax from Megahobby and got ship notice today but will check out the Weld-on product. Paul you think it's as hot as Tenax?

Hey Bob, it seems to me that Weld-on 3 is comparable to Tenax and the Ambriod Pro-weld as far as how hot it is. Definitely will go POOF with the lid left off. (which I have done several times) :facepalm

This week I have been building my Stug III Ausf B (Dragon) almost exclusively with WO3 and it has been a very fast easy build. (still have to deal with all the track links though)

Weld-on 3 is made for gluing clear acylic together without crazing or causing any haze. You might see if there is anyone in your area that sells clear acrylic plastic and that can build acrylic shapes. They might have some or something very equivalent that you can buy. Note there is a Weld-on 4 but I believe it is a slower drying version.

 

[moon puppy]

Thanks Paul, I found their website and it looks like they have all sorts of glues and nasty stuff. I'll keep a look out for it, saw it listed on Walmart but not sure it's worth making that trip!

 

[Jeeves]

Love how effective Tenax is...don't love how easily it seems to evaporate right through the closed cap...

 

[Firesmacker]

I bought a case of bottles off of Ebay a little over a year ago after the last scare. I checked and there are only individual bottles for sale on Ebay at the moment.

For evaporation issues even when the bottle is closed, don't leave it in direct sunlight and/or if you are like me and forget, wrap the bottle in a layer of painter's tape (or whatever tape. Just not Scotch tape... ) to keep the light out. I started doing that several years ago and haven't had a problem since.

 

[moon puppy]

Good idea Jeff, yeah I bought a case years ago (before my post marriage hobby hiatus) but I don't think I used all of it because of the evaporation. Wonder if keeping it in the fridge would stop evaporation.

 

[Firesmacker]

I just checked my remaining 9/12 bottles and I guess there is something to it. Some are pretty much full, a few are slightly above the label and one is a little below the label. They have all been in the box since I bought them.

I just chalk it up to very minor leaks that add up over time. Nothing lasts forever and these bottles aren't vacuum-sealed. It will evaporate eventually. This stuff is corrosive as hell (ask my various cutting mats) and that means it will evaporate over time.

Guess I need to get my ass in gear and use this stuff up...