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Tamiya Thin Cement has a WHAT??!!
- Thread starter chukw
- Start date
ausf
Master at Arms
Thanks for that.
There's a weird deal with modelers and Tamiya. They are by far the most complained about, I assumed based on pricing, yet the engineering is beyond reproach IMO.
I personally don't build a lot of Tamiya, except their 1/16 RC armor, but when I do, I'm always impressed. The RC faction is a whole other world, Tamiya is the gold standard, yet is constantly bad mouthed, criticized and generally hammered on every level, but almost always by someone who doesn't have one or just outright never understood how it works. I've seen people go to great lengths to alter or upgrade things on a Tamiya, that in the end, they just installed incorrectly.
This bottle is a perfect example. I have a feeling the brush extension is probably widely known in Japan, just not elsewhere. Whether it's cultural or just language barrier, I don't know.
Tamiya markets things differently outside of the Home Islands. The FO tanks sold at home come with transmitters/receivers and batteries/charger. Outsiders get an empty void in the box and a taunt of how to set it up in the directions. I started buying them direct from Japan and even with $100 EMS shipping, it was still less expensive than the US offerings and a superior kit.
Same with Iwata. The HP-TH I got from Japan was under $150 shipped. The same brush in the US at the time was only available in a metal case with a pistol grip water filter and retailed around $500.
There's a weird deal with modelers and Tamiya. They are by far the most complained about, I assumed based on pricing, yet the engineering is beyond reproach IMO.
I personally don't build a lot of Tamiya, except their 1/16 RC armor, but when I do, I'm always impressed. The RC faction is a whole other world, Tamiya is the gold standard, yet is constantly bad mouthed, criticized and generally hammered on every level, but almost always by someone who doesn't have one or just outright never understood how it works. I've seen people go to great lengths to alter or upgrade things on a Tamiya, that in the end, they just installed incorrectly.
This bottle is a perfect example. I have a feeling the brush extension is probably widely known in Japan, just not elsewhere. Whether it's cultural or just language barrier, I don't know.
Tamiya markets things differently outside of the Home Islands. The FO tanks sold at home come with transmitters/receivers and batteries/charger. Outsiders get an empty void in the box and a taunt of how to set it up in the directions. I started buying them direct from Japan and even with $100 EMS shipping, it was still less expensive than the US offerings and a superior kit.
Same with Iwata. The HP-TH I got from Japan was under $150 shipped. The same brush in the US at the time was only available in a metal case with a pistol grip water filter and retailed around $500.
helios
Well-known member
Whodathunk? :laugh:
I actually just tried switching over to the Tamiya Extra Thin too, as the LMS no longer seems to carry Tenax or Ambroid. So far seems to work pretty well...and as a side bonus it doesn't even smell bad.
*disclaimer* Don't go huffing cement bottles! :smack
I actually just tried switching over to the Tamiya Extra Thin too, as the LMS no longer seems to carry Tenax or Ambroid. So far seems to work pretty well...and as a side bonus it doesn't even smell bad.
*disclaimer* Don't go huffing cement bottles! :smack
Duke Maddog
Well-known member
This is cool. I saw it on another Forums too. I've been using Tamiya Extra Thin for some time now. When my bottle runs low, I set it aside and start a new bottle, When that gets lower, I combine the two into a full bottle again. My empty bottles I use to hold my washes in. I combine Windsor Newton oils with Mona Lisa thinner at an 80-20 mixture of paint-to-thinner and keep it in Tamiya Extra Thin bottles. The applicator brush is fine enough for me to use for pin washes. Great bottles!
Thanks again for posting this Chuck, you gotta hang around more often here, I miss you!
Thanks again for posting this Chuck, you gotta hang around more often here, I miss you!
not a hijack!
Useful information.A chemist by trade and modeler by hobby did an analysis of Tamiya paint, glue and thinner. I have forgotten where I got it or his name. I could only find his analysis of the thinner (back up Often) left. Here is what he says about thinner:
Water 54.9175%
Secondary Butanol 19.9700%
Normal Propyl Alcohol 14.9775%
3-methyl-3-methoxy Butanol 9.9850%
Additives 0.1500% (of which there may be more than one!)
TOTAL 100.0000%
I should have started a new thread. I wasn't thinking. It wont happen again
Water 54.9175%
Secondary Butanol 19.9700%
Normal Propyl Alcohol 14.9775%
3-methyl-3-methoxy Butanol 9.9850%
Additives 0.1500% (of which there may be more than one!)
TOTAL 100.0000%
I should have started a new thread. I wasn't thinking. It wont happen again
Last edited:
No need for a new thread. Checking out the specifications sheet of Tamiya's Airbrush Thinner, it seems to be the same main ingredients but only 1% off.
I often buy cans of solvents so no true need to buy smaller bottles unless at deep discount.
Robert the forum is yours and everyone elses. If you want to bump some old threads please do so. I've forgotten more in these archives than I care to admit.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
This is my Solvent of choice. I have found it works on just about all solvent plastics. It has the same ingredients as Tenax7 though it doesn't evaporate quite as fast. It is also quite resonable, or at least it used to be. This 16oz can cost me about $13 and that was quite a long time ago. I only make a small hole in the metal seal top and keep the lid on quite tight.
I use a glass syringe with a long large needle to transfer this to an old Ambroid solvent bottle. That solvent also used the same ingredients so this bottle works quite well.
I use a glass syringe with a long large needle to transfer this to an old Ambroid solvent bottle. That solvent also used the same ingredients so this bottle works quite well.
I have both SCIgrip 3 & 4 and I get them from Amazon. I blame Paul (@Heavens Eagle) for buying these blunt and long syringe needles. However, I do not I use them with a glass syringe but a large plastic one which is immediately cleaned after transfering to a glass bottle for storage. I will try to explain more in detail what he meant as it is not so clear without photos.
The industrial solvent clans are sealed under the removable metal cap with a thin metal lid. This lid is to be removed but instead, I learned from Paul, to punch a hole in it slightly larger than the syringe needle. The needle is then acting like a hummingbird and sucking out some of the solvent for transferring to this previously mentioned glass bottle.
The old amber glass bottle labeled Methylene Chloride, is what I use now for Weld-On (SCIgrip) 3 and the Tenax7 bottle for SCIgrip Weld-On 4:
Previous threads that may be of interest:
applying glues, cements, or solvents
Using Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as a solvent
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Saúl has a very good point that I didn't point out. As I have photos here is a little more info.
First off the WeldOn products work VERY well. I have used them to just do simple repairs that are quite strong. For instance, I inherited a drill press from my dad that he had not taken very good care of. the plastic cover for the pullys was broken with a big crack in it. Luckily all the parts were there, though he used duct tape on it. (Ugh!)
I took the lid off and completely cleaned it off from the sticky tape goo and used my WeldOn3 to make it solid once again.
A little reinforcement on the inside of the corner
It also makes the clear acrylic sheets at Lowe's a viable building material.
As to the hole in the can with the syringe, here is what I use. My syringe is all glass as I have had bad issues with plastic and rubber types in the past. This will work with about anything and will easily clean up.
After having a couple of spills with glue bottles I made this with stuff from Lowe's.
Lastly after having the lid of a can of MEK disintegrate on me, the old empty WeldOn can came in real handy.
After all this I did a search and found a 5cc syringe like my 3cc ones above and found some 6 inch long metal blunt needles also like the ones I have above. They will make it a lot easier to transfer solvents.
First off the WeldOn products work VERY well. I have used them to just do simple repairs that are quite strong. For instance, I inherited a drill press from my dad that he had not taken very good care of. the plastic cover for the pullys was broken with a big crack in it. Luckily all the parts were there, though he used duct tape on it. (Ugh!)
I took the lid off and completely cleaned it off from the sticky tape goo and used my WeldOn3 to make it solid once again.
A little reinforcement on the inside of the corner
It also makes the clear acrylic sheets at Lowe's a viable building material.
As to the hole in the can with the syringe, here is what I use. My syringe is all glass as I have had bad issues with plastic and rubber types in the past. This will work with about anything and will easily clean up.
After having a couple of spills with glue bottles I made this with stuff from Lowe's.
Lastly after having the lid of a can of MEK disintegrate on me, the old empty WeldOn can came in real handy.
After all this I did a search and found a 5cc syringe like my 3cc ones above and found some 6 inch long metal blunt needles also like the ones I have above. They will make it a lot easier to transfer solvents.
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
well that was a great 'dig-up! I didn't know that about Tamiya applicators. Thanks.
