Generally takes me two kits to get one so what can I say. 
-
Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
This requires that you manually reset your password.
Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.
Something totally different! .....and red
- Thread starter Skinny_Mike
- Start date
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
Great news guys! This arrived in the mail over the weekend!
Here is the new pristine body shell.
Looking through the parts, I found that this kit is in much better shape then the last one. None of the parts appeared warped and there was a minimum of flash.
I quickly added all the body panels.
Next step will be a light primer coat followed by cleanup. I am going with a slightly different approach this time around, and I am hoping that I can minimize the number of primer coats. Only time will tell. :hmmm
Moving along on this one again!
See you all soon
Mike
Here is the new pristine body shell.
Looking through the parts, I found that this kit is in much better shape then the last one. None of the parts appeared warped and there was a minimum of flash.
I quickly added all the body panels.
Next step will be a light primer coat followed by cleanup. I am going with a slightly different approach this time around, and I am hoping that I can minimize the number of primer coats. Only time will tell. :hmmm
Moving along on this one again!
See you all soon
Mike
Git'er done Mike.
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
Nice Ian!
iambrb
Well-known member
Ferrari 330 P4
Wow that is gorgeous work!
Wow that is gorgeous work!
Greetings all! Its been a little while since I’ve posted much of anything here. Its been a hectic few weeks, I’ve found time for modeling, but not a lot of time online. I’ve got some free time this weekend, and plan to spend a lot of it at the bench. :yipee
All right, lets get caught up on this build.
The basic build sequence so far has been to paint the pieces and then add them to the build. The next step was the dashboard and instrument cluster. The assembly is made of two parts. Unfortunately the top of the dash was warped. I fixed this by gluing down the left side and letting that set overnight. Then I glued and clamped the right side and let that sit overnight. Once I removed the clap it was pretty much straight. Once assembled, I painted everything black, then shot some future on it and placed the decals for the gauges. Once they set and were flat coated, I replicated the glass with Micro Crystal Clear and added the steering wheel.
The next step was to paint the rear firewall. The top was painted first using Rosso Corsa 300 from Zero Paints. These paints are color matched to the manufactures specs and this was the red used by Ferrari on the 330s. The bottom was painted Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black. The shoulder harnesses are attached to the firewall so I felt it would be easier to attach them prior to assembly. Fujimi provided either photo etch belts with the hardware attached, or the option to use self-adhesive fabric belts with photo etched hardware. I went with the fabric option, which worked out very well. The only downside is the fabric is very rigid and does not lay down very well. But they do look better then the photo etch would have.
The lap belts were installed and then the remaining parts to make up the drivers cockpit were assembled. There are no positive positioning indicators for the firewall and the inside door panels. This made it a little fidgety to get them all in place. A little patience, dry fitting the body shell and some sanding eventually led to a good fit.
Next step was to get the rest of the detail parts painted. I used mostly Tamiya colors loosely following the instructions. I did have one nearly catastrophic mishap. The rear suspension swing arms were molded as a single piece. Fujimi’s plastic is very soft and this piece broke when I removed it from the tree. In the end I used a piece of brass rod to pin the pieces together. Once it was all aligned and glued down to the chassis everything appeared pretty strong. Disaster avoided! Here’s a shot of the finished parts prior to assembly.
Next up, assembly. Here are the engine, suspension and rear brakes installed.
Next was the exhaust pipes, rear structure and the spare tire mount. The exhaust pipes did not fit at all. In the end I had to shorten them and add pins to support them on top. They are pretty much invisible in the end, so in hindsight I could have avoided a lot of aggravation and just left them off.
Up front I added the radiator. I painted it Alclad Stainless Steel. It is quite visible through the bodywork. And I thought this was an appropriate color for it.
The rear deck was assembled next. Its made up of a clear window and the deck. I painted it the same red body color and the window was masked so the trim was painted black, then they were assembled.
The wheels where the last part of the chassis that I needed to assemble. I sanded the seam off the tires, and was very surprised I didn’t screw up the tread blocks. I through them into my ultrasonic cleaner when I was done to help get all the sanding dust out of them. Then I added them to the wheels. The front wheels had the brakes installed as well and the spinners were added. I unfortunately lost one of the spinners, so I didn’t add them to the rear wheels.
Fujimi did have dry transfers to add the logos to the tires. They include both Firestone and Goodyear logos in gold color. I couldn’t make them work at all. According to my references for this car, #26, the tires were Goodyear with white logos. I went out and sourced some decals, but unfortunately the only ones I found where the wrong diameter. I chose just to leave them off in the end. I also found out that the wheels supplied in the kit are wrong for #26 as well. Compare the picture above of the kit wheels with the real car below.
With all that in mind, I decided not to worry too much about it and installed the wheels as is. The front wheels are steerable and roll. Once I get it all finished up though I will probably glue them in place, as there is just way too much play in them in every direction. The rear wheels attach to a solid metal rod that acts as the axle. The spare tire was super glued into position.
Then the rear deck was installed, which hides all the rear detail.
That completes the chassis. Next step is to get the bodywork cleaned up and painted. This has been a challenging kit, as I have stated before. But its turning out well, and is keeping me very interested as I go.
Thanks for looking in folks!
See you soon
Mike
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
Wow – its been a while since I posted here, and a while since I actually worked on this. Fortunately, that’s changed. I lost a little mojo during my Tiger build and didn’t do much building for a bit. But I started back in recently and decided I really want to get this build finished and off the shelf of doom.
Let’s catch up.
First step was a coat of gray primer to help find the mold lines and seams that needed cleaning. I used Ammo’s one coat gray primer.
Once that dried, I cleaned up the body imperfections and the seam lines at the bumper and the piece in front of the windshield.
I replaced the rivets I lost with the archer rivet decals. I laid them right onto the plastic then sealed them in with a coat of future. These are really a fantastic product. There is no way I could have cleaned the body shell and not lost some of the rivets.
I resprayed the primer, corrected a few spots then resprayed again. Once everything was done I sprayed an even coat of gray primer.
I also did an experiment. I heard that the best primer color to use for red paint is pink. I sprayed the old body shell, back half with white primer and the front half with pink, then sprayed red to see if there was a difference. Here is how it turned out.
To me the front looks like a deeper red while the back looks a little brighter. I’m trying to figure out which is best, since I have color matched 1967 red from Zero Paints, I want to make sure its accurate. Problem is most of my reference is in black and white.
That’s where we are today, not much further to go on this one.
Thanks for looking in.
Mike
Let’s catch up.
First step was a coat of gray primer to help find the mold lines and seams that needed cleaning. I used Ammo’s one coat gray primer.
Once that dried, I cleaned up the body imperfections and the seam lines at the bumper and the piece in front of the windshield.
I replaced the rivets I lost with the archer rivet decals. I laid them right onto the plastic then sealed them in with a coat of future. These are really a fantastic product. There is no way I could have cleaned the body shell and not lost some of the rivets.
I resprayed the primer, corrected a few spots then resprayed again. Once everything was done I sprayed an even coat of gray primer.
I also did an experiment. I heard that the best primer color to use for red paint is pink. I sprayed the old body shell, back half with white primer and the front half with pink, then sprayed red to see if there was a difference. Here is how it turned out.
To me the front looks like a deeper red while the back looks a little brighter. I’m trying to figure out which is best, since I have color matched 1967 red from Zero Paints, I want to make sure its accurate. Problem is most of my reference is in black and white.
That’s where we are today, not much further to go on this one.
Thanks for looking in.
Mike
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
Hey there folks! Its really been slow going for me lately, but I spent a part of the Christmas holiday getting the model room cleaned and better organized which has helped feel a little more like sitting at the bench. Plus, I have so many things in various stages of incomplete right now its been a little overwhelming trying to figure out what to work on. Its time to divide and conquer, starting with the pesky Ferrari. Lets get caught up on this progress.
As we recall I had purchased an entirely new kit to replace the body shell that I had messed up. Once I got it assembled and all the imperfections cleaned up it was given one last full gray primer coat.
Next step was the headlights. Being an endurance racer, they go through the night and have lights typically behind plexiglass covers for aerodynamic purposes. The light wells were painted black and then the lenses added using Gator’s Grip glue.
After those had dried, I installed the covers, again using Gator’s Grip. The covers fit pretty well but did have a slight ridge in relation to the body work, so I sanded them to fit and polished them back with a micromesh kit and finally some polishing compounds. I was surprised just how well this turned out.
I masked the lights with some Tamiya tape I had cut to shape before installing the covers and a little Micro Mask Fluid in the spots that needed a little help. Then I touched up the gray primer and polished it back with some very fine polishing cloths.
Followed by a coat of white primer, following some research I had found on producing the best finishes on car bodies.
I set this aside to cure for a few days, then I sprayed on the top coat. For the red I used Rosso Corsa 300 from the Zero Paints line produced by Hiro Boy. These are an airbrush ready lacquer (I think) paint that is color matched to the manufacturer’s codes. So in theory, this red should match the red of the 1967 Ferrari racecars.
After the paint cured for about a week, I gloss coated with future and added the stickers. These where a real challenge. The number plates are pretty large and had a really hard time conforming to all the compound curves of the bodywork. I used Walther’s Solvaset to persuade them, but it took a lot of slicing air bubbles and adding Solvaset before they really got on well. The one in the back corner took a real beating and required some patchwork. Good thing I had some extras. After the decals had set for a few days I sprayed two heavy coats of Model Master Ultra High Gloss.
At this point I got the chassis back out and prepared to assemble them. I also added the interior bits to the body shell (mirror and mesh grill).
This all went pretty well.
Then I added the rest of the bits, windshield and the wiper, exhaust pipes and rear deck latches and the lower side panels. And this one is complete!
In parallel to building the car I also built a display base for the model. I made it out of some sheet lumber I had and stained it black followed by high gloss polyurethane. I downloaded a few pictures of the car at the 1967 24 hours of Daytona and made a nameplate for the car and used a photo of the 3 Ferraris in finishing order for the top of the base. Ferrari finished the race 1, 2 and 3 with the 26 car finishing third. The photos were printed onto some photo paper and attached to some sheet plastic painted in Tamiya Italian Red.
I still need to secure the car down to the base, but I’m not sure how I want to do that. Its between and angled stance and a straight stance. Here are some pictures. What do you guys think?
Well there it is. Finally got something done and even though there are some imperfections I am pretty happy over all with this build. Took 2 kits to get there, but hey sometimes that how it goes.
In an interesting bit of timing, I actually finished the car last weekend, while watching the 2018 24 Hours of Daytona. Ferrari didn’t win this year though.
Thanks for looking folks!
Mike
As we recall I had purchased an entirely new kit to replace the body shell that I had messed up. Once I got it assembled and all the imperfections cleaned up it was given one last full gray primer coat.
Next step was the headlights. Being an endurance racer, they go through the night and have lights typically behind plexiglass covers for aerodynamic purposes. The light wells were painted black and then the lenses added using Gator’s Grip glue.
After those had dried, I installed the covers, again using Gator’s Grip. The covers fit pretty well but did have a slight ridge in relation to the body work, so I sanded them to fit and polished them back with a micromesh kit and finally some polishing compounds. I was surprised just how well this turned out.
I masked the lights with some Tamiya tape I had cut to shape before installing the covers and a little Micro Mask Fluid in the spots that needed a little help. Then I touched up the gray primer and polished it back with some very fine polishing cloths.
Followed by a coat of white primer, following some research I had found on producing the best finishes on car bodies.
I set this aside to cure for a few days, then I sprayed on the top coat. For the red I used Rosso Corsa 300 from the Zero Paints line produced by Hiro Boy. These are an airbrush ready lacquer (I think) paint that is color matched to the manufacturer’s codes. So in theory, this red should match the red of the 1967 Ferrari racecars.
After the paint cured for about a week, I gloss coated with future and added the stickers. These where a real challenge. The number plates are pretty large and had a really hard time conforming to all the compound curves of the bodywork. I used Walther’s Solvaset to persuade them, but it took a lot of slicing air bubbles and adding Solvaset before they really got on well. The one in the back corner took a real beating and required some patchwork. Good thing I had some extras. After the decals had set for a few days I sprayed two heavy coats of Model Master Ultra High Gloss.
At this point I got the chassis back out and prepared to assemble them. I also added the interior bits to the body shell (mirror and mesh grill).
This all went pretty well.
Then I added the rest of the bits, windshield and the wiper, exhaust pipes and rear deck latches and the lower side panels. And this one is complete!
In parallel to building the car I also built a display base for the model. I made it out of some sheet lumber I had and stained it black followed by high gloss polyurethane. I downloaded a few pictures of the car at the 1967 24 hours of Daytona and made a nameplate for the car and used a photo of the 3 Ferraris in finishing order for the top of the base. Ferrari finished the race 1, 2 and 3 with the 26 car finishing third. The photos were printed onto some photo paper and attached to some sheet plastic painted in Tamiya Italian Red.
I still need to secure the car down to the base, but I’m not sure how I want to do that. Its between and angled stance and a straight stance. Here are some pictures. What do you guys think?
Well there it is. Finally got something done and even though there are some imperfections I am pretty happy over all with this build. Took 2 kits to get there, but hey sometimes that how it goes.
In an interesting bit of timing, I actually finished the car last weekend, while watching the 2018 24 Hours of Daytona. Ferrari didn’t win this year though.
Thanks for looking folks!
Mike
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
Here are some glamour shouts of the 1967 Ferrari 330P4
Thanks for looking!
Mike
Thanks for looking!
Mike
SWEET!!! 
phantom II
Master at Arms
Looking very nice Mike . A lot of good detail to it .
Cheers, Christian B)
Cheers, Christian B)
lupanzer
Master at Arms
Great build, one of my personal favourites.
Ian.
Me too... congratulations for the excelent job!
Luiz.
