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Question about using Future

Skinny_Mike

Well-known member
Hi guys - I have a question about using Future as a gloss coat. Does future go bad? I've honestly always had a love hate relationship with future as a gloss coat, but lately its just been getting worse. My bottle is like 5ish years old, just wondering if maybe its gone bad and I should replace it.

Still trying to figure out what went wrong with my B-2 build. :sick:

Thanks
Mike
 
I don't know if it actually goes bad but I just used my oldest bottle on my floor (heaven forbid!) because it had developed a distinctly yellow tint. Like you I have developed a hate for it as a gloss coat. I've never ever been able to get it to spray right and while others are perfectly happy brushing it on I always manage to get runs or brush hairs or what have you in it. I switched back to Testors gloss coat about a year ago and have had far less problems. Now about the only thing I use it on is instruments and lights and very rarely a canopy or something.

Mike did you catch my trick on using Tamiya Extra Thin on your decal problem spots?
 
I don't think it goes bad but it can get contaminated. Like Adam, I've shied away from it recently in favor of AlcladII Aqua Clear.
 
I have cut my future accidently once with some Alcahol and it just dries faster and is thinner like correctly thinned out paint should be - Since then I have cut it every time with 94% alc
 
Ummm, what kind of alcohol Dave? There are different kinds. Isopropyl, or denatured, or even some other kinds. Might make a difference.

As to using future as a clear gloss coat, I have never used it. As I mostly use enamels for my base color coats, I have found that if I use a 50/50 ish mix of Solvaset with water as a wetting agent on the paint then 100% Solvaset on the top of the decal, it works extremely well. I then wick away excess from the edges and lately have used the airbrush with about 5-10lbs of air only to work the decal down. Start at the center with it backed away and slowly get closer the work around out from the center. No air bubbles or silvering even over FLAT enamel paint. Solvaset will attack acrylics, thus a clear coat as a barrier will be needed over acrylic paints.

I do use future as a gloss when hand painting clear gloss on small stuff. Works great for that.
 
I use water to cut future and brush an ammonia/windex mix to remove or thin down after application, when it gets a run or lumpy. Gary
 
Somebody posted a tip on using future when applying decals by placing a small amount(wet) on the surface to be decaled. Then using a q tip to blot the excess future after the decal is layed down. I wondered about fuzz coming off the q tip. I tried this technique last night and it works great!! I've been modeling for a long time and have seen a lot of models compromised by poor decal application. So my thanks goes out to the tipper. Gary :yipee
 
I found using Future cut with 1/4 amount of Windex glass cleaner gives the smoothest gloss coat.

After years of seeing in-progress pictures on other modeling sites I noticed on some models how pebbly looking the surfaces were after they were sprayed with Future and I was curious if my models had the same problem so the next time I sprayed Future on my own models I looked at them under high magnification and I could see they were not as smooth as I once thought they were.
When you paint a model with an airbrush if you are getting a spatter or gritty finish on the models surface its clear the paint is not quite thin enough so with that thought in mind I did several experiments with using Windex as a way to thin Future for getting a smoother finish without any pebbling effect and a ratio of 3/4 Future to 1/4 Windex seems to work the best.

I also tried dipping canopies in thinned Future to see if there was any improvement but there was no difference in the results so I don't bother with that anymore.

Applying decals while using Future works especially well if the decals don't have the proper amount of adhesive and refuse to stick, a Minicraft Me 109E I built a couple years ago had this problem on all the smaller stencil type of markings and Future really saved the day. :salute On the other hand I have had some problems using Future with decals when I needed to make a slight adjustment and could not move the decal because the Future already started to set up.
So its better to go for a perfectly smooth finish on the model instead of using Future as a decal setting solution. :eek:ldguy


Matrixone
 
I do use future as a gloss when hand painting clear gloss on small stuff. Works great for that.[/quote]

How long does it take to dry when brushed on?

Tim
 
Depends on how thick it is but should be dry to the touch in about 20 minutes. Still let it cure for about 24 hours.
 
I used Future for years with mostly good results but in the last year or so have found it increasingly difficult to achieve a smooth coat without getting runs. When it got to the point when I was spending too much time fixing runs I switched to Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear and so far have been quite happy with it. It seems to dry quicker and harder than Future and if I get too heavy handed with it I can tell as I start to see a slight milky color on the surface. This goes away as it drys but lets me know I may be at risk for runs or build up.

I also used Future mixed with Tamiya flat base for dull coating and have given that up for Model Master Acryl Flat Clear. I got tired of constantly mixing and occasionally getting little white flecks from the flat base that didn't entirely mix with the Future. For now I still use Future for dipping canopies and dials on instrument panels. I have not as yet tried the Aqua Gloss Clear for canopies mainly because it doesn't seem to be as easy to remove as Future in case of disasters.
 
I have used the same bottle of Future for years . It is the most flexible product I have ever used .

You can use it for flat, gloss , as a primmer . I even mix it with the Acrylic paints .

It can be hand brushed or air brushed . All a matter of figuring how to make it work in the particular application. Oh, and it can be removed with a bit of Windex and a brush.

Does not get better than that . :D
 
I get the pebble effect even with brush painting future, but it's usually aver a very flat finish. Then I end up wet sanding and do another coat. I'll have to try your windex/future ratio next time.
Dipping canopies works great for me, especially if there's sanding involved.
Yes I did notice that moving a decal after it sets only foe a few minutes is hard to do. A small brush loaded with windex might help.
The reason I tried the future application with decals is the silvering I still got even with setting solution. To each their own. Gary
 
Make sure you get the Windex with ammonia or it won't work.

I have a bottle of Future I bought in 1997, still working on it. I have a "new" bottle I bought 4-5 years ago when everyone was spewing the demise of the product and it wasn't going to be available any more. It's unopened, so one of these days I can test side by side the old vs. new Future. B)
 
I get the pebble effect even with brush painting future, but it's usually aver a very flat finish. Then I end up wet sanding and do another coat. I'll have to try your windex/future ratio next time.
Dipping canopies works great for me, especially if there's sanding involved.
Yes I did notice that moving a decal after it sets only foe a few minutes is hard to do. A small brush loaded with windex might help.
The reason I tried the future application with decals is the silvering I still got even with setting solution. To each their own. Gary

If you get orange peel, It's because it dries too fast .



Dilute it more and consider adding some Galeria retarder to the mix

Cheers, Christian
 
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