Paint question for the masters among us

[jknaus]

I am trying something new so have questions.
I have a Steyr RSO /3 almost done. Will paint it Nato Black. Then will paint it Tamiya Drk Yellow. Then will mist on Drk Yellow / Buff. I think that will get some modulation as I understand it happening. Do I then paint the cam and do same, then wash, or do i wash then do cam?
Next question. What oil paints do I use to wash it? How do I wash it? I have never had luck with washes in the past.
I have the paint to do this so if you come up with other colours it probably wont happen so please help me with what I have. Thanks in advance for any help.
James

 

[Tony lee]

Oh James that's a heavy question/questions you've got there. I'm no expert but I tell you how I would do it if you like.
First off,I find that if I use a black under Tamiya Dark Yellow you'll get a strong Green tone in the yellow so I would use a dark Brown like Nato Brown or Italian Brown instead.

Paint as you would in real life. You do all your painting then the unit is exposed to sun light(Modulation) and then it gets dirty,chips,scratches (washes and pin wash) and or dust.

Tube oils(Winsor-Newton),MIG or AK Interactive premixed washes.
After your painting is good and dry I coat the model with Future if I use tube oils,the Future(glossy) lets the oils flow and not puddle up. MIG products tell you if you use Tamiya you don't need the Future and AK Interactive recommends a Satin sealer coat before using.

For a wash the color(I like a brown as in Umber) needs to be really thinned like 1pt. color to 9pts thinner. Sneak up on the desired amount of built up grime you're looking for by building up the layers.
For a Pin wash I use the same Umber color but with more color and less thinner. Use a small pointed brush and just lightly touch the seams,bolts,revets or around anything you want to give definition to.

If you're satisfied with the looks let all this dry for a week or two before using your chalks or pigments for dusting. After the washes dry spray a coat of MATT/FLAT to give the dust something to grip
and try not to handle the model anymore than you have to.

I recommend you listen to others techniques then find your own way from those.
Tony lee

 

[moon puppy]

 

[JSteinman]

First, don't use black. Black is for green / dark grey base colors. For Dark Yellow I use a Dark Brown color as the base. then hit it with straight dark yellow, but you don't want a full coverage coat - defeats the purpose of the undershading. Let some of the brown show through at panel junctions etc. Now you have to make a decision, do you want to modulate it, or post shade it, they are similar but different. For a true post shade mix in your buff, and apply to the middle of panels, raised details, again is a mottled layer. For modulation and you have to be careful here because it is easy to make it look like a clown mobil, think about how light will hit your vehicle, and paint the lighter areas as you invision the light hitting the surfaces - not an easy task to do well. If you apply camouflage you will then do this, and post shade it, or modulate it. Then you can start the rest of the process.

HTH

 

[jknaus]

Thanks guys. Will let you know how it turns out.

 

[moon puppy]

:nopics

 

[JSteinman]

Pretty much it is all right here for the standard stuff, for modulation, I have no pics as I am not a huge fan of this style.

https://www.modelersalliance.com/forum/john-steinman/312-painting-armor-101

EDIT: Bummer the pics are gone MP, there were on the LEM!!!

 

[moon puppy]

:idonno

didn't their old gallery crap out once?