Hawkwrench
Active member
I'm getting ready to buy some new brushes and I just wanted to get your guys input on what I should buy, what you use, and why.
Thanks!
Tim
Thanks!
Tim
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Paint brushes
- Thread starter Hawkwrench
- Start date
Rhino
Super Moderator
I've got about 30 Brushes, and I regularly use 5 or 6. I like the Floquil natural sable ones the best. i split them up into light color brushes, dark color brushes, Acrylic and frizzed out dry-brushers. I've had most of them for 20 years or better. (Quality doesn't cost, it PAYS!) I roll my clean brush in a wee tad of vaseline, to seal out the air and to keep what paint may still be in the barrel of the brush from drying out and causing the bristles to go "POOF!" save the plastic tube it comes with to cover your nice paint brush when not in use.
Does that help?
ldguy
Does that help?
ldguy
ausf
Master at Arms
You really have to narrow it down to what are trying to paint and with what paint.
There are literally hundreds of types of brushes out there and I probably use a over dozen different ones just for models alone from Kolinsky Sable to nylon junk.
Paint load, type of paint and thinner all factors into choice, including brush size. A good 1 or 0 brush does better detailing than a 0000 brush.
There are literally hundreds of types of brushes out there and I probably use a over dozen different ones just for models alone from Kolinsky Sable to nylon junk.
Paint load, type of paint and thinner all factors into choice, including brush size. A good 1 or 0 brush does better detailing than a 0000 brush.
I've got mostly junk brushes I get from hobby Lobby, those packages of 5 or so. Then I have a couple realy nice red sable brushes for detail painting that i've never done..or used. but buy gum, I got'em.
but buy gum, I got'em. 
Since I also, ahem, paint as a hobby, I have several sets.
Three sets for each, acrylic, lacquer, oil (as in tubes used mostly for figures). One set is for metallic pigments, another for red (as I find them the hardest hue to clean out the bristles), and then all the other colors.
Quality is important but it comes at a high outlay. So, I bought them as I needed them using coupons from Micheal's, Hobby Lobby, deals on eBay, sales, and so on.
Depending on use, there are shapes to go for... flats are very useful for dry brushing, long fine tips hold more paint for adding details to tiny areas, and so on.
coming up with a starter set for plastic scale modelers would be a good idea for any company!
Regards,
Three sets for each, acrylic, lacquer, oil (as in tubes used mostly for figures). One set is for metallic pigments, another for red (as I find them the hardest hue to clean out the bristles), and then all the other colors.
Quality is important but it comes at a high outlay. So, I bought them as I needed them using coupons from Micheal's, Hobby Lobby, deals on eBay, sales, and so on.
Depending on use, there are shapes to go for... flats are very useful for dry brushing, long fine tips hold more paint for adding details to tiny areas, and so on.
coming up with a starter set for plastic scale modelers would be a good idea for any company!
Regards,
Hawkwrench
Active member
What's the benefit of pure sable brushes?
Tim
Tim
Red Sable, think they keep their shape better, bristle are softer, not as likely to leave brush strokes. hell I don't know, I've never used them
Hawkwrench
Active member
Red Sable, think they keep their shape better, bristle are softer, not as likely to leave brush strokes. hell I don't know, I've never used them
You guys are a bunch of nutburgers!!! :gogo
I love this site!
Tim
Red Sable, think they keep their shape better, bristle are softer, not as likely to leave brush strokes. hell I don't know, I've never used them
You guys are a bunch of nutburgers!!! :gogo
I love this site!
Tim
Thanks, we'll be here all week (except when we get attacked again :frantic ) be sure to tip your waitresses.
ausf
Master at Arms
Windsor and Newton Series 7 are the best sable brushes for hand brushing acrylic paints. They are Kolinsky sable and there are a few companies making KS brushes, but none compare to series 7. Dick Blick is the US distributor for them, they aren't as expensive as you'd think considering the mileage you get out of them. I have some that are 6 or 7 years old and paint like day one.
They hold their shape forever (provided they're cared for), lay down flawless coats, mainly because they can hold a great deal of paint, which is key to a smooth finish.
All that said, you don't use them with cheap paints or to apply glues, etc. so it really is a matter of what you want from the brush.
Bottom line is, a brush is like any other tool, you get what you pay for. The best figure painter in the world can't get good results with a bad brush, but an expensive brush isn't going to make you a great painter either.
They hold their shape forever (provided they're cared for), lay down flawless coats, mainly because they can hold a great deal of paint, which is key to a smooth finish.
All that said, you don't use them with cheap paints or to apply glues, etc. so it really is a matter of what you want from the brush.
Bottom line is, a brush is like any other tool, you get what you pay for. The best figure painter in the world can't get good results with a bad brush, but an expensive brush isn't going to make you a great painter either.
I had mentioned that I buy brushes from Michael's and, for today only, they are running an art supply BOGO (Buy One Get One) Free event!
http://www.michaels.com/make-a-thon/bogo-free-select-fine-art-supplies/art-supplies?
Regards,
http://www.michaels.com/make-a-thon/bogo-free-select-fine-art-supplies/art-supplies?
Regards,
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I have bought and used a lot of brushes over the years. Cheap ones and expensive ones. I always had trouble with the tips curling on them after one or two uses. It didn't seem to matter what paint, thinner or cleaner.
Then on an experiment I bought a couple of the new Games Workshop brushes. The first one I bought was the fine detail brush. The bristles are about 5 or 6 mm long and come to a VERY NICE POINT. I have used it for several years now with a number of different paints. I bought another and a couple of the next size up and all paint nicely and still have nice straight points just like new.
The best detail brushes I have. I would also go along with the suggestion on getting a 0 or #1 size (which I believe the GW brushes are) anything smaller than a 000 doesn't hold enough paint to work well. Also the smaller brushes don't seem to be able to keep a good point.
For cleaning brushes, I have been using Testor's TES50495 Model Master Acryl Dried Paint Solvent 1.75oz #50495. It works well on enamels and acrylics and doesn't seem to harm or dry out the bristles.
Then on an experiment I bought a couple of the new Games Workshop brushes. The first one I bought was the fine detail brush. The bristles are about 5 or 6 mm long and come to a VERY NICE POINT. I have used it for several years now with a number of different paints. I bought another and a couple of the next size up and all paint nicely and still have nice straight points just like new.
The best detail brushes I have. I would also go along with the suggestion on getting a 0 or #1 size (which I believe the GW brushes are) anything smaller than a 000 doesn't hold enough paint to work well. Also the smaller brushes don't seem to be able to keep a good point.
For cleaning brushes, I have been using Testor's TES50495 Model Master Acryl Dried Paint Solvent 1.75oz #50495. It works well on enamels and acrylics and doesn't seem to harm or dry out the bristles.
From my... ahem... artist's years, I have brush conditioners and cleaners. Saliva works very well too!
Regards,
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
LOL! Yeah, a lil spit on it to shape up the brush point before putting on the protective tube is the last step.
CharleyGnarlyP290
New member
LOL! Yeah, a lil spit on it to shape up the brush point before putting on the protective tube is the last step.
That makes me feel better... I am not the only one! hold over from my graphic design years back in the '80s.
Prop Duster
Member
LOL! Yeah, a lil spit on it to shape up the brush point before putting on the protective tube is the last step.
That makes me feel better... I am not the only one! hold over from my graphic design years back in the '80s.
Wheew! Now I feel better I'm not alone, at my easel/bench since my long gone commercial art days. :dude After my final cleanup with Fells-Naphtha, I give a last shaping "touch" with my own proprietary oral expectorant as a final conditioner. :coolio
:yipee
