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P-47D - Finished

Thanks Luiz!

I took a break last night. Tonight I did a little weathering and got the panel lines all highlighted. It is really looking good. At this point I have machine guns to make, main gear to assemble and mount, sliding canopy to mount, prop to decal and clear coat, and more weathering to do. It will be done this weekend no problem.
 
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Rule of thumb: Start with the weakest solution on thin decals. Eastern European decals are brittle so a dip in very warm (almost too hot to touch) water softens them. Never drop decals in water and let them release, you lose a lot of the adhesive that way.
I watched Plasmo use a wet pallet of sorts to soak the decals so I followed suit and I use a sponge in a Tupperware container until the decal just begins to release. It soaks up the moisture from the back and keeps the decal set on the backing paper.
 
I watched Plasmo use a wet pallet of sorts to soak the decals so I followed suit and I use a sponge in a Tupperware container until the decal just begins to release. It soaks up the moisture from the back and keeps the decal set on the backing paper.
Right, and part of what I swore i posted in the decal tutorial since it helps tremendously to understand what one is seeing during the process.

The decal film doesn't absorb water but has water activated adhesive holding it onto the backing paper. A dunk into very warm water for 2 seconds is enough to coat the backing paper which should absorb enough to loosen itself from the decal. However, the paper expands and, while still attached to the decal, curls itself until free. This is when one can slide the decal onto the model surface.

Regards,
 
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I watched Plasmo use a wet pallet of sorts to soak the decals so I followed suit and I use a sponge in a Tupperware container until the decal just begins to release. It soaks up the moisture from the back and keeps the decal set on the backing paper.
The wet pallet is a neat idea for decals Paul. I usually set the decal in the water face down and watch the paper absorb the water. Once it has fully turned color, I pick up the decal with tweezers, tilt it and touch the lower corner to remove the extra drop of water and set it on the glass table top. Once it slides freely I now wet the surface and place the decal in position....
 
I have found I get good results by putting the decal on the model and wetting it there. NOW! That being said, I do LOTS of teeny models and it's a sure way for the dinky decals not to vanish. I've used Solvaset on the decals I make and on all the ones I buy without a problem. I LOVE to decal! It's what brings the model to life.
Ask me about the Star Trek USS Voyager I made for my Momma sometime. :facepalm:
 
I am down to the last piece. The prop is painted and ready for the 8 decals. Then a flat coat and some weathering. The plane itself is done. Hopefully photos later this evening.
 
Here is the final Installment.

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MMM2021 P-47 -30.jpg


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Hope you all enjoyed this build. I learned a few good things that I can now use on some future builds. I think even Mr. Lincoln likes it. If you like how this build turned out, at least click the like button to let me know.
 
Glad you like it John! Thanks for looking in Saul and Impisi! Glad you liked it Eric and Bob. As Bob said, with the finish it is hard to tell the actual size of the model. The penny was a last afterthought and I dug one of the old steel cents out of my stash.
 
Thanks for taking a look Paul, much appreciated! Terry, thanks so much for your kind comment! Mark, my thanks, you have me beat always on the production scene.
The challenge on this kit was to do a decent metal finish and experiment with decals and clear coats. The fact it turned out as well as it did is mainly due to what I have learned from others on this forum.
 
Another great job Paul, love it :) Its not a scale i do TBH, i always wonder why firms like Tamiya seem to be able to reduce model detail from 1/32 to 1/48 and down to 1/72 but retain 1/32 panel lines :)
 
Another great job Paul, love it :) Its not a scale i do TBH, i always wonder why firms like Tamiya seem to be able to reduce model detail from 1/32 to 1/48 and down to 1/72 but retain 1/32 panel lines :)
I agree Paddy, that is part of why the old steel penny is in the last photo. This was one of the best fitting kits I have done in a while. I did very little modding to it. Mostly just cleaning up and standard seam fixing.
 
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