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P-47D - Finished

Tojo72, Barney, John, Terry, and Jeff, thanks for looking in. This is moving well as long as I go in and do a little work each day.
sharkmouth said:
It is a beautiful kit indeed. Is this the scheme? :devil:

View attachment 134321

Regards,
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Nope it is going to be this guys machine.

P-47D.jpg
 
Spent the weekend applying decals and learning some things. I learned the Micro Set seems to work well as a surface layer when setting the decal in place. Micro Sol doesn't do diddly. It might work on super thin or really weak decals but it doesn't do squat otherwise. My almost gone Solvaset is wayyyyyyy too strong , but it does the trick especially if I dilute it 3 parts to 1 part with Micro Sol. I finally couldn't stand it and did a deep search for another bottle of Solvaset. Walthers is out and most everyone else is as well. I did manage to find ONE bottle at a model train supply house. Bought a few other items while I was there, but they just didn't have much unless you needed something in a train scale or something for a diorama. We shall see if the bottle arrives later this week or not.

I also decided to do a little mask and paint of an area after applying the decals. Yeah, I know and knew at the time it could be risky. Used some tape that almost wasn't sticky enough to stay in place. Didn't matter, but look at the photos and you will see the story and repair.

MMM2021 P-47 -15.jpg


MMM2021 P-47 -16.jpg


MMM2021 P-47 -17.jpg


MMM2021 P-47 -18.jpg


Am done now for tonight. Have some decals to place on the prop and some more detail paint. Then it is assembly and weathering time. Should be no problem finishing up by the end of the month this time.
 
Decals say "Lions and Tigers and masking tape, Oh No, Lions and Tigers and masking tape, Oh Nooooo!"

But the fix looks good, Paul. I have some Walthers but Tamiya Mark Fit Strong is maybe stronger, and the Gunze is pretty good too. And no two decal makes act the same.
 
I actually goofed with the invasion stripes and used the wrong set. The ones I was supposed to use were a lot smaller. Looks a bit better with the bigger decals, but not accurate. Was a good learning experience putting them on though.
 
One thing I did learn is that the best way to apply Solvaset is with the airbrush on low air pressure. It limits the amount of solvent applied and with care drives out the excess water from under the decal. I also found that the pointy end makup Q-tips I get at Walgreens are great at wicking away liquid from the edges of the decals using the pointy end. This helped with the complex curves decals once they were perfectly placed.

Tonight I am going to wipe down the model with a damp cotton ball, dry it and give it another coat of future. Then a little bit of flat on some painted areas and then it will be ready for weathering.
 
I could have sworn I had a decal tutorial. Getting to the chase of that tutorial that is pertinent:

Decal systems come with setting solutions (all designed to break the water tension and allow the decals to easily move to where you want them before blotting and having the adhesive contact the model surface).

The 'Sol' parts are solvents and each is designed for specific types of decals but no one tells you! MicroScale/SuperScale have a line of decals with super thin film. Decals solvents were too hot so they made their own. Other companies using MicroScale/SuperScale rebranded the product (such as Aeromaster). I keep these for thin decals. Also, I start with them on decals I never experienced before. The frugal way is to use vinegar. Have you ever noticed the smell that MicroSol/SuperSol has?

Many of the Japanese kit decals (which were not sent out to Cartograf, Fantasy print, et cetera) are thick and the MicroSol/SuperSol solution simply tickles them. This is why Tamiya and Gunze decal solvent solutions are much hotter. Yet, I never bought them as I have hotter!

I bought a set from DaCo Productions and Walther's SolvaSet. The latter supposedly does both in one shot. However, it is very hot, not as hot as DaCo Decal Solution. Neither have a 'Set' solution as they literally soften the decal to the point it melts the film. Great! Unless you have one of the thin film decals.

As Paul found out, the best is to experiment finding the right ratio of heat for the decal setting solution being used.

Decalwork 001.JPG


Regards,
 
I actually tried putting some decals directly on the Alclad. This basically worked with no problem, EXCEPT if you used too much solvent and drops were allowed to set on the Alclad and dry. In that case they ate the Alclad a bit. The wing Star and Bar and the invasion stripes were placed directly on the Alclad. I didn't pay much attention to the ones on the bottom of the wings and ended up with spots. The stripes were OK and as I paid more attention, had no problems. Then decided to coat the model with future.

Learned that the future did some weird things while drying. Over the chrome it blushed with white areas. Thought things were toast but the blush went away. The future didn't appear to affect the Alclad at all and once it had fully set the reflective properties were almost the same in the chrome areas.

Anyway, it all was a good learning experience as I had not done any Tamiya decals in ages. You are right about the Micro Scale decals being affected by the Micro fluids more readily. The Solvaset/MicroSol mix actually seemed to work better. The nose decals went on without a hitch. The white circles went on first and laid down perfectly. The semi clear eagle background went on over the white circle with the Micro Set underneath to help it scoot around. Once it was located I wicked away the excess liquid and airbrushed the MIX and they settled down perfectly. I also learned to just take a fine brush and put the solvent over the panel lines on the clear decals. This was something I had not done before to any great extent so I have dreaded doing decals.

Anyone have any other input on what solutions work best on what brands? I know I have a number of Cartograf decals. Also a number that are from Scale Master and DML The airbrush trick with the solvents works very well as it can lay down a very thin sheen of solvent on top of the decals. It can also dry them and force the decals to snuggle down into the openings and panel lines faster. Only thing to be careful with is getting too close or too much air pressure. That can do some real damage, but if you start with weak air and keep it back a ways and ease close over the center of the decals it works quite nicely.
 
Heavens Eagle said:
Anyone have any other input on what solutions work best on what brands? I know I have a number of Cartograf decals. Also a number that are from Scale Master and DML
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Rule of thumb: Start with the weakest solution on thin decals. Eastern European decals are brittle so a dip in very warm (almost too hot to touch) water softens them. Never drop decals in water and let them release, you lose a lot of the adhesive that way.

Thick Tamiya decals, use a hotter solution. Obviously Tamiya makes it for their own decals. DML, printed in Japan, use the same as Tamiya. I found some Chinese decals which act more like water-slide vinyl stickers. LOL, nothing works on them!

Archer Fine Transfers and Eduard have a new decal type whereby you can peel off the film. I've no idea what to do there. If you are planning to remove the decal film, there is no point in making it appear as part of the model's surface (that 'painted on' look).
Barney said:
We have just had a master class on Decals. Great information, guys.
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Not even close. Yet, it is a start.

Regards,
 
You are hitting the nail on the head Saul! Thanks for your input! :good: It is very good info and the "start with the weaker solutions" is excellent advice.

Years ago I built the Esci large scale F-16 cockpit. (Not sure but maybe 1/12th scale?) Anyway the decals were like Impossible to settle with anything. They were like mylar. I ended up using small amounts of Testors liquid solvent glue to make them lay down. Have a very small amount in a paint brush and "just barely" touch the brush to the edge of the decal. THAT made them lay down. It was the only thing that did.
 
I still overcoat all my bare metal finishes with Model Master Metallizer Sealer. Decal solvents don't bother the finish what so ever. I LOVE to decal! It's what brings the model to Life for me!
 
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