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One Down One to Go
- Thread starter Cheyenne
- Start date
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
what an excellent finish! 
I love it! rough and rugged with dirt and scratches in all the right places!
I love it! rough and rugged with dirt and scratches in all the right places!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Good job! Looking forward to the wrecker!
I've been eyeballin that wrecker everytime I see it on the shelf. Can't wait to see your take on it Glenn. 
Cheyenne
Moderator
Pup , this is one extremely detailed kit .
You literally build it from the frame up just like in the Chevy factory .
Lotsa small intimidating parts .
The good news is the fit is amazingly good .
I was worried about the frame and wheel base being straight/square/level .
Only minor eyeballing was needed , the parts fit is that good .
Even the u bolts to attach the leaf springs to the chassis are seperate parts .
But it's worth the worry , hell I put on my brown pants to start this build just in case .
You even get a styrene jig to bend the p.e. bumpers , ......... man I'm lovin this kit , I've got a lot of other MiniArt Chevys so I'm glad the others will turn out the same way . MiniArt radio truck and the one with the trailer , Sauls bomb loading truck , and a couple of cargo trucks .
You literally build it from the frame up just like in the Chevy factory .
Lotsa small intimidating parts .
The good news is the fit is amazingly good .
I was worried about the frame and wheel base being straight/square/level .
Only minor eyeballing was needed , the parts fit is that good .
Even the u bolts to attach the leaf springs to the chassis are seperate parts .
But it's worth the worry , hell I put on my brown pants to start this build just in case .
You even get a styrene jig to bend the p.e. bumpers , ......... man I'm lovin this kit , I've got a lot of other MiniArt Chevys so I'm glad the others will turn out the same way . MiniArt radio truck and the one with the trailer , Sauls bomb loading truck , and a couple of cargo trucks .
Cheyenne
Moderator
I had more eye surgery on the 10th this past Thursday , so the intricate small work on the truck is on hold till the cloudiness in my left eye clears up .
However the build needs concrete parking lots/driveways so I tackled that , it's large enough to work on .
Disclaimer : This is not my invention/creation it's a pretty well known method .
I based mine on a tutorial by Martin Kovac " Night Shift " on U-Tube , who happens to be my modeling hero .
Imho , the greatest builder on the planet , any genre .
Do yourselves a favor and check his work out , you will be amazed .
I started out sectioning a 3/16ths block of cork , no thinner , it needs to be stiff enough for the process .
Divided that into nine four inch squares .
Then I took one of the squares and bent the cork creating a long crack and breaking off two pieces .
Trimming away some of the cork along the adjoining edges to further simulate the cracks .
Then I fit the broken pieces back to the four inch square , DO NOT GLUE .
Next I coated the piece with good ole spakle/sheet rock mud .
Not to thin and not to heavy , a baby bear coating , " just right " and got it level as possible .
Then let it harden only long enough to take a wire brush and stipple the hell out of it .
I filled some divits with mud and sanded some high spots , rinse and repeat on the stippling .
Carefull sanding , you don't want to loose the wire brush stipple/holes effect .
Happy with the look and totally dry I then bent the long crack to appear and broke off the two smaller pieces .
Now I can glue the broken pieces back to the four inch square .
Now I took a pale grey paint and a round blunt brush and stipple painted , not brush painted the mud .
Using water on some of the paint on the brush to get different cosistincies absorbed into the mud .
You don't want a universal grey paint job .
Then I stippled a buttermilk color which is an off/dirty white color in random areas .
I also stippled some antique white which is lighter than the buttermilk .
You can use whatever colors you want for whatever you think your concrete should look like .
Just don't paint the colors on , stiple them .
Lastly I took Iraqi sand color and now I did a diluted wash , not stippled , in some areas .
I used dark grey chalk to put in the cracks amd lightly dusted the whole thing wirh it also .
It also fills in the thousands of wire brush stipple holes .
The good thing is if you start to darken things too much or the colors don't look concretey enough , you just restipple your base coat and try again .
Its your build keep playing with it till in your minds eye it looks like old concrete .
You can add grasses and weeds to the cracks or anything else .
However the build needs concrete parking lots/driveways so I tackled that , it's large enough to work on .
Disclaimer : This is not my invention/creation it's a pretty well known method .
I based mine on a tutorial by Martin Kovac " Night Shift " on U-Tube , who happens to be my modeling hero .
Imho , the greatest builder on the planet , any genre .
Do yourselves a favor and check his work out , you will be amazed .
I started out sectioning a 3/16ths block of cork , no thinner , it needs to be stiff enough for the process .
Divided that into nine four inch squares .
Then I took one of the squares and bent the cork creating a long crack and breaking off two pieces .
Trimming away some of the cork along the adjoining edges to further simulate the cracks .
Then I fit the broken pieces back to the four inch square , DO NOT GLUE .
Next I coated the piece with good ole spakle/sheet rock mud .
Not to thin and not to heavy , a baby bear coating , " just right " and got it level as possible .
Then let it harden only long enough to take a wire brush and stipple the hell out of it .
I filled some divits with mud and sanded some high spots , rinse and repeat on the stippling .
Carefull sanding , you don't want to loose the wire brush stipple/holes effect .
Happy with the look and totally dry I then bent the long crack to appear and broke off the two smaller pieces .
Now I can glue the broken pieces back to the four inch square .
Now I took a pale grey paint and a round blunt brush and stipple painted , not brush painted the mud .
Using water on some of the paint on the brush to get different cosistincies absorbed into the mud .
You don't want a universal grey paint job .
Then I stippled a buttermilk color which is an off/dirty white color in random areas .
I also stippled some antique white which is lighter than the buttermilk .
You can use whatever colors you want for whatever you think your concrete should look like .
Just don't paint the colors on , stiple them .
Lastly I took Iraqi sand color and now I did a diluted wash , not stippled , in some areas .
I used dark grey chalk to put in the cracks amd lightly dusted the whole thing wirh it also .
It also fills in the thousands of wire brush stipple holes .
The good thing is if you start to darken things too much or the colors don't look concretey enough , you just restipple your base coat and try again .
Its your build keep playing with it till in your minds eye it looks like old concrete .
You can add grasses and weeds to the cracks or anything else .
Most excellent! I saw someone else do concrete with construction paper, painting and weathering much the same way.
And think of all those spare parts that could be strewn around @Brokeneagle Ian Hill style.
And think of all those spare parts that could be strewn around @Brokeneagle Ian Hill style.
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
What a great job. I have heard of modellers using cork sheets to get the crack effects for simulated concrete but this is the first time I have seen it done - wonderful finish! ..........
and yeah, think of all the detritis, rock, rubble and broken stuff you could have on the base to really make it zing!
and yeah, think of all the detritis, rock, rubble and broken stuff you could have on the base to really make it zing!
No I was talking about the truck!
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