Paulw
Well-known member
I don't know if this is allowed but if it isn't then Bob can move it to another spot.
I bought this on eBay several months ago. This was a used kit but no assembly was done to it. So far every thing looks to be here. As far as the kit goes then I can say that from some of the reviews that I have read there are a few issues along with the type of plastic from a limited run kit is famous for. This stuff is soft and you can mar it with some good pressure from your finger nail.
Any way...
I cut off the fuse sections of which there are four and taped them together to see for my self the issues with alignment.
From here there doesn't seem to be any issues at all...
But on closer inspection I found where the problem stem from.
The front section top piece is about 2mm shorter in length than the bottom this leaves a gap. on one side while the other has some little step.
If the forward fuse is assembled with the back half even the every vertical panel line as well as the nose part of the sub assembly would be off by about 2 mm.
I figure to line up the halves where the panel lines are together then glue the halves together and just fill in the gap when the front comes together with the rear.
Now for the aft section.
The to parts line up pretty well for the exception of a fairly large gap on both sides where the top fits inside the bottom of the aft fuse. I may be able to fill it with plastic card and fill it. I will have to be extremely careful on the sanding because if it is too aggressive then Ill miss shape the part and have to correct that as well.
url=https://postimages.org/]
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The pour gates are fairly thick so after cutting them from the sprue then all the nubs left over are either filed flush or shave as close as possible to the part trying to prevent marring the surface.
The last part that I will have to contend with is the non colored p.e. in particular the IP panels. They have a lightly raised surface with hole for the instrument face film that is included with the kit.
I think I can get away with painting the light gray that is the interior color and dry brush the black but I have heard of another technique where it involves some masking tape. a black sharpie and a paint brush. Ill be able to explain further as I get to that step.
Ill be getting back to this while I still have the desire to do some things to it.
Cheers
I bought this on eBay several months ago. This was a used kit but no assembly was done to it. So far every thing looks to be here. As far as the kit goes then I can say that from some of the reviews that I have read there are a few issues along with the type of plastic from a limited run kit is famous for. This stuff is soft and you can mar it with some good pressure from your finger nail.
Any way...
I cut off the fuse sections of which there are four and taped them together to see for my self the issues with alignment.
From here there doesn't seem to be any issues at all...
But on closer inspection I found where the problem stem from.
The front section top piece is about 2mm shorter in length than the bottom this leaves a gap. on one side while the other has some little step.
If the forward fuse is assembled with the back half even the every vertical panel line as well as the nose part of the sub assembly would be off by about 2 mm.
I figure to line up the halves where the panel lines are together then glue the halves together and just fill in the gap when the front comes together with the rear.
Now for the aft section.
The to parts line up pretty well for the exception of a fairly large gap on both sides where the top fits inside the bottom of the aft fuse. I may be able to fill it with plastic card and fill it. I will have to be extremely careful on the sanding because if it is too aggressive then Ill miss shape the part and have to correct that as well.
url=https://postimages.org/]
The pour gates are fairly thick so after cutting them from the sprue then all the nubs left over are either filed flush or shave as close as possible to the part trying to prevent marring the surface.
The last part that I will have to contend with is the non colored p.e. in particular the IP panels. They have a lightly raised surface with hole for the instrument face film that is included with the kit.
I think I can get away with painting the light gray that is the interior color and dry brush the black but I have heard of another technique where it involves some masking tape. a black sharpie and a paint brush. Ill be able to explain further as I get to that step.
Ill be getting back to this while I still have the desire to do some things to it.
Cheers
