Musing

[paddy]

A question I always face when thinking about a build is what sort of finish I should go for?
It’s a question that applies to most subjects but especially Vehicles IMHO
Thinking about a future Spitfire build do I go for a war weary realistic finish, a modern restoration type finish …..or a museum perfect finish.
Each has an advantage, War weary means you can hide a multitude of imperfections under weathering, paint and filler. Probably best used on those non perfect older models. That said weathering is a skill in itself and can go very wrong.
A modern restoration finish is what most people do and is pretty straight forward as its basically OTB with basic paint colours and gives a very presentable finish. Thats sort of what did with my SU27 build recently but probably not very realistic
Then there is what I call the museum quality with added detail and spit clean finish which can work well on cars and motorcycles.
Each finish presents its own problems for example I am a recent convert to the excellent MRP paint range, but it is a limited range at the moment and there is only one UK stockist. Another problem is you need a near perfect finish with these ultra-thin paint because even with 6 coats to cover they will not fill or hide gaps in fact if anything they highlight imperfections that a matt coat of Tamiya would cover.
Museum finish can present problems with not easy to replicate finishes like Chrome and aluminium type finishes and Mirror finish paint body colours..

So I wondered what do you prefer for your build and what advantages and disadvantages do your choices throw up ?

 

[moon puppy]

Weathered up is the way i'd rather go, I think it is more forgiving if you do it right, got one layer not right, remove it and reapply.

Museum finish you say?
Like these at Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center?

I understand they will display Flak Bait in it's weathered war weary prime.

But then there's this.

You got a real mix here. Polished aluminum back on the filet but oxidized aluminum all over yet, there's still that polished look peaking through in spots.

But I know what point you're making because this was there in all it's spit and polished glory

Like I said I like the weathered look but I seem to have more success with cleaned up aircraft like the Bulldog and the Comets. At least I finished those!

 

[Rhino]

One of our club members, Ross Petra, builds stunning WWII Wehrmacht models. His construction and paint techniques are above reproach. He almost never weathers any of his builds. After all the effort it takes for Roscoe to make his model, he can't bring himself to "make a mess of it".

Where weathering is concerned, I believe less is more. Many moons ago, Sheppard Paine wrote "It is easy to overdo weathering and you don't want your model to look like it had an wreck in flour factory." His wisdom seem more apropos the smaller the model gets. It is really easy to overdo it on 1/72 armor and small ship models.

Then one must consider the setting of the original (Aircraft/Tank/Ship/Car) object being modeled from the references chosen. Had it, in fact, just been involved in a battle in a flour mill? What weather is depicted? Club member Jose Gonzalez built a 1/700 Matchbox USS San Diego right after a snow storm in Bayonne NJ. His snowy covering hid the fact that the ol' Matchbox/Revell Ag. AA cruiser is a very crude model ship indeed.
Escort vessel finishes took a horrific beating from the sea in the North Atlantic from the waterline to the main deck. I chose not to depict such extremes on my small model ships. You end up with a clump of salt and rust under a gun, mast and radar.

What is the subject built from? I've seen people put silver weathering on FW-190D-9 propellers (made of wood) and control surfaces that were cloth doped. DUH. How about the wooden floor of a P-51 cockpit scuffed in silver? Tires with mud on the surface of the tread, rather than in the siping grooves of the tire? Rust on German tank tracks? Quite a few of these were made of magnesium. It don't rust.

What was the tempo of battle at the time? Did crew chiefs have the time to properly clean the airplane in between missions or did they care for just the critical mechanical items that day or night? Who was the pilot? How fastidious a Man was he?

In the contest arena, "Pretty wins". Judges may better appreciate a clean shiny car model over one that is badly beaten up. Warmer tones, reds and oranges, receive more attention that cooler blues and green hues it seems.

Musings indeed, sir.

 

[moon puppy]

Warmer tones, reds and oranges, receive more attention that cooler blues and green hues it seems.

I've heard the same is true when driving down the highway. Highway Patrol buddy told me that red cars do get more tickets as they stand out.

 

[Sharkmouth]

For me, it depends on the photo I am using for inspiration. Although, lately I have considered weathering to cover up my flaws!

 

[paddy]

Condition wise its an interesting contrast between that P38 and that C wing Hurricane Bob

 

[paddy]

I saw a build where someone tried to add the dents and dings to a well used Spitfire and ended up with a model thast looked like it had a lot of unfilled sink marks...its a fine balance

 

[Heavens Eagle]

A question I always face when thinking about a build is what sort of finish I should go for?
It’s a question that applies to most subjects but especially Vehicles IMHO
Thinking about a future Spitfire build do I go for a war weary realistic finish, a modern restoration type finish …..or a museum perfect finish.
Each has an advantage, War weary means you can hide a multitude of imperfections under weathering, paint and filler. Probably best used on those non perfect older models. That said weathering is a skill in itself and can go very wrong.
A modern restoration finish is what most people do and is pretty straight forward as its basically OTB with basic paint colours and gives a very presentable finish. Thats sort of what did with my SU27 build recently but probably not very realistic
Then there is what I call the museum quality with added detail and spit clean finish which can work well on cars and motorcycles.
Each finish presents its own problems for example I am a recent convert to the excellent MRP paint range, but it is a limited range at the moment and there is only one UK stockist. Another problem is you need a near perfect finish with these ultra-thin paint because even with 6 coats to cover they will not fill or hide gaps in fact if anything they highlight imperfections that a matt coat of Tamiya would cover.
Museum finish can present problems with not easy to replicate finishes like Chrome and aluminium type finishes and Mirror finish paint body colours..

So I wondered what do you prefer for your build and what advantages and disadvantages do your choices throw up ?

The photos of the Ukraine Su 27 aircraft that I have saved up (pre war) the aircraft were VERY well maintained and had minimal weathering. The only thing I would do would be a very light pin wash to bring the panel lines and detail out. Then add a minimal oil stain under the engines. Also the aircraft were not a flat finish either.

I also believe these were fairly recently painted with this scheme and thus are like new. I have some photos with older paint schemes and they are quite worn.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Here are photos of an older paint on a Su27

very weathered and worn

Old paint vs new paint

And a photo from an article.

 

[moon puppy]

Condition wise its an interesting contrast between that P38 and that C wing Hurricane Bob

I was looking through my photos of the RAF Museum and see that yous guys display fully restored with the exception of the Lancaster they pulled off the bottom of a lake somewhere.

It's like you say, it's your taste. Doing a weathered subject has it's own techniques that probably don't apply to making one pristine.

 

[moon puppy]

I saw a build where someone tried to add the dents and dings to a well used Spitfire and ended up with a model thast looked like it had a lot of unfilled sink marks...its a fine balance

@Sherman 18 did this on a landing craft if I recall correctly and he nailed it. can't find the photos.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

I was looking through my photos of the RAF Museum and see that yous guys display fully restored with the exception of the Lancaster they pulled off the bottom of a lake somewhere.

It's like you say, it's your taste. Doing a weathered subject has it's own techniques that probably don't apply to making one pristine.

I believe the sole existing Do17Z is also going to be displayed "as is". They recovered it from just off shore someplace on the coast and it has been going (or gone) through conservation treatments to preserve what is left. I keep hoping that someone will do it in 1/32 some day.

 

[paddy]

Its the worlds only surviving original Halifax There is another composite one somewhere

 

[moon puppy]

Its the worlds only surviving original Halifax There is another composite one somewhere

Woops, my mistake. I'm not as versed on the RAF bombers as I should be.

 

[paddy]

I forgive you

 

[Heavens Eagle]

The Lancaster was based on the Halifax but much improved if I remember correctly.

 

[paddy]

No the Lancaster was based on the twin engine Manchester, both Avro. The Halifax was Handley page

 

[moon puppy]

The Lancaster was based on the Halifax but much improved if I remember correctly.

I see I'm not alone in my RAF bomber lessons.

 

[paddy]

I think i will give the Airfix spit IX a go in "as new" condition, but not tarted up like a modern restoration. on the air show scene.
I am a bit sceptical about this new kit, i think i would rather work with the 50 year old Mk1 version from Airfix which is a bit more of a blank canvas.

 

[paddy]

Ask me something about a B17 and you will get a blank stare