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Israeli Tiran 5

Another little upgrade is I used metal wire for the handles:
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Now, it turns out I have a dilema. In this picture you see that #112 attaches near the hatch opening:
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Well, that piece is missing from the sprue. I don't know what it is or what it really looks like (some pictures have almost no resemblance to the actual part) so I don't know how to replicate it. I cannot find a clear picture of one on a RL tank. Any suggestions what to put here?
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Here is where I am in the build:

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I think the metal upgrades have made a lot of difference. And I like the fact that I made the parts and didn't purchase ready made. They may not look as clean as a bought part, but they look decent enough.
Now, if anyone has a suggestion about the missing part...
 

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Greg Kimsey said:
Another small upgrade. I made new barrels for the light weapons from brass tubing. Before:View attachment 155034
And After:View attachment 155035I used lead wire for the wraps around the two barrels on the top gun.
Click to expand...
the big round dot in the middle of the gun ain't right.

In fact it don't look right at all, might want to look for some other after market M2 HMG if you wanna upscale it.
 
moon puppy said:
the big round dot in the middle of the gun ain't right.

In fact it don't look right at all, might want to look for some other after market M2 HMG if you wanna upscale it.
Click to expand...
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That looked so perfect I thought it was supposed to be there. I will look for something. Thanks!
 
Part # 112 is just shapes. I would just womp up a new one. But then I would have to dink around with handles and hinges and other Ti-67-such guff. It might take me months! :bang head
 
Rhino said:
Part # 112 is just shapes. I would just womp up a new one. But then I would have to dink around with handles and hinges and other Ti-67-such guff. It might take me months! :bang head
Click to expand...
It is weird. I looked at an upgrade kit for the Tiran V and the part that goes there looks like a part I have still on the sprue, so I am using that! I will show it later when I get home.
 
Well, I got some hair spray and am going to give it a go. I reblacked the tan and green parts, then coated with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Color Airbrush Colors which are fantastic. Can't wait to try them on a P51 Mustang. Anyway, here is what we looked like after metal color and two light ciats of hair spray
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I then painted Tamiya XF-93 Light Brown thinned with water to be more easily removeable. Since I did not take a picture of the color "pre chipping" you will just have to use your imagination. I used a stiff fan brush and water, dipping the brush in the water then wiping on a paper towel, then rubbing gently (at first) to loosen up the paint and take off just enough. This technique works great!
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Seems convincing in person. I then used raw umber oil paint and lots of thinner to make a wash, then went back and streaked vertical parts and dirtied the corners of flat spots.
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And, that is where I am. More tomorrow maybe. It depends on how dry the oil paint is.
 
On with the weathering. I think I have made a tactical error by forgetting to apply the markings. I will figure that out. Yesterday I did raw umber washes and dry brushing. Today I moved to Burnt Umber oil paint accented with a little black oil paint
Before:
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And after
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Now I will put the desert dirt on it with pastels. I hate covering all that work, but what comes next would not look right without it. I am using Yellow Ochre light, Raw Umber, and black pan pastels and a Yellow ochre Nu-Pastel (which are being discontinued!! It is a staple product in the art supply world. Covid has made people stupid!)

I am applying with a short filbert brush. I am trying to fill some areas that might collect sand. And here we are
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I may need to lighten it up a bit more. When I spray the pastel to set it, it will darken a little so it needs to be lighter to account for that.
 

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Let's start with decals. I was going to try to paint the V and barrel stripes but in the end it became too difficult to mask the upside down V, so I used the decals. They weren't terrible. I used Tamiya MarkFit to prepare the surface and to set them. Here they are:
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It took some work and some blending, but in the end they looked similarly weathered.
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On to the tracks. I am using the provided plastic strip tracks. I prepped in Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. Then sprayed with brown wash.
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Next up I layed down a wet base of Vallejo Desert Dust Wash used as a fixer and mashed in Pan Pastel dust alternating Raw Umber, Yellow Ochre, Yellow Ochre Light, and black.
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After that dried thoroughly I dry brushed the same colors over the previous mess. Top track dry brushed, bottom track yet to be. After that I superglued the tracks together and gave them time to dry. Next came cursing and fiddling trying to force the tracks over the wheels. Once done I put superglue on the tops of the wheels and wedged the tracks down until they dried.
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We are close now! After that dried completely I mixed some of the pastels with some matte medium and plasic putty to make caked dirt here and there. With touches of drybrushed Steel paint around the edged they were done.
On to the antennas. I used fine styrene rod, and wound black fine fly tying wire around the bottoms to simulate the springs; painted it all black and glued them in.
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I thought I might add some oily mess around the back so with Vallejo Oil Spill medium I made some leaks and what not
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I guess that's it!
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I am pleased with the outcome. I feel like I took a fairly crummy kit (no wonder it was on clearance) and made a respectable looking tank. Not a show winner by any stretch, but it will look good on my shelf 🙂
 

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