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How 2 Remove Resin Pour Blocks?

Tankbuilder

Active member
Hi there and a merry Christmas day to any who are Orthodox.

I finally got my lizards from Mantis and some of the things like the feet and legs are extremely delicate with good size pour blocks still on them. What is the best way to remove these resin pour blocks without a high risk of breaking the part?

Thanksand cheers
 
...and saw, and saw, and saw, and saw, and saw, and saw, and saw...

JLC Saws are nice but hard to work with on the really big slabs.
 
What MrT and MP said Peter. Have also heard of unwaxed dental floss or nylon thread being used for smaller parts. I imagine held in a flossing handle would be the easiest way. Hope that helps.
James
 
Thanks people.

I tried razor saws but as soon as it carches just a micro bit the piece snaps off. Ditto for a sanding drum in a Drem el tool. These legs are ultra petite at between 1/64" and 1/32" and snap odd with the least little provocation. What makes it even worse is that each leg you do separate from the pour block drastically increases the risk of snapping off the next leg. I wish resin had the little pour holes that styrene has. Resin is great for large pieces or for pieces where you only need to cut one finesection away from the pour block but for these fine critters I'd say be prepared to have a couple of breakages. It's really too bad because the detail is so nice.

Cheers
 
Thanks people.

I tried razor saws but as soon as it carches just a micro bit the piece snaps off. Ditto for a sanding drum in a Drem el tool. These legs are ultra petite at between 1/64" and 1/32" and snap odd with the least little provocation. What makes it even worse is that each leg you do separate from the pour block drastically increases the risk of snapping off the next leg. I wish resin had the little pour holes that styrene has. Resin is great for large pieces or for pieces where you only need to cut one finesection away from the pour block but for these fine critters I'd say be prepared to have a couple of breakages. It's really too bad because the detail is so nice.

Cheers

Did you try the nylon sowing thread?
James
 
hot blade and sanding is what seems to be the way here. I would prefer a utra fine razor saw as the JLC one referred to. Do NOT use snips as the part will shatter.

The nylon floss works but it must be taut (I used the handle from a Flex-i-File but it is not so easy.

Flex-I-File-Tool-Tender-Plus.jpg


Regards,
 
Right ...speaking as the king of resin :laugh: If its a large block/small part then get yourself a Swann Morton scalpel blade and 10A blades or 11's, ( handle No.3) just score carefully between the block and the part carefully and you will get through if its just .020" or less. you can also buy photo etch saws for the Swann Morton handles.

http://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-1B.html

The secret is patience. Dont try and push or force the blade. Let the blade cut almost under its own weight. The problem with cutting in any scale even hacksawing metal is people apply to much pressure. Always let the blade do the work, you cant force it to cut more by pushing on it. If it needs pressure be it a razor or a toothed blade its probably blunt.

Aireskit.jpg


Finished2.jpg


It can be done :)
 
Good point about the pressure Paddy, I cringe everytime we go to a restaurant and someone squashes the bread cutting it, let the knife/saw do the cutting
 
The secret is patience. Dont try and push or force the blade. Let the blade cut almost under its own weight.

got it in one Paddy.

I use a few different tools for those blocks, depending on the size/thickness I have a cordless drill with a very controllable trigger, and use very small high speed drills to do the groundwork by drilling sideways then lengthways thru the thick block, then a finger held micro saw 68TPI to cut the block away using the drilled holes.

For the very small brittle parts, the 68 teeth per inch finger held saw does the trick re Paddy -

clean up with a new sharp set of finger nail cutters and 400/600/800 wet n dry abrasive paper.
 
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