kryptosdaddy
Active member
This is a great build, love the wash! :dude
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88mm FLAK 37 mit Behelfslafette
- Thread starter Burton
- Start date
Very subtle work, nice! 
That is definitely nice!
Regards,
Regards,
My fellow modelers,
Some more workbench shots :
Optics painted in lamp black oil paint
Gun tube weathering in detail
Interpretation of the paint wear on the wooden seats
Reunited and it feels so good ! (I hate that song!).
Gun and Lafette become 'One' (Faithless , I love that song !).
Nearing completion, hope you likes.
Frank
Some more workbench shots :
Optics painted in lamp black oil paint
Gun tube weathering in detail
Interpretation of the paint wear on the wooden seats
Reunited and it feels so good ! (I hate that song!).
Gun and Lafette become 'One' (Faithless , I love that song !).
Nearing completion, hope you likes.
Frank
Arturius
Active member
Frank what amazing gun! :woohoo:
Let me ask, some questions mate:
How you do that weathering???
What products have you used?
I need to learn a lot yet....
Really look's real one!
This kind of work, make me want run to workbench or buy some AA gun to build...
very nice! Like Bill sad, in the future with sure this gone be a reference!!!!
Let me ask, some questions mate:
How you do that weathering???
What products have you used?
I need to learn a lot yet....
Really look's real one!
This kind of work, make me want run to workbench or buy some AA gun to build...
very nice! Like Bill sad, in the future with sure this gone be a reference!!!!
reconron
Active member
Gun and Lafette become 'One' (Faithless , I love that song !).
Nearing completion, hope you likes.
Frank
Hey,Frank...you know this one would look great in a diorama!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=4VKt1qOlLKM
Greetings,Ron.
kryptosdaddy
Active member
Very nice, I built the same kit, painted and finished in 5 days. I wanted to blurt it out because i was blowing off some steam and this was a nice little outlet. Glad to see you took your time and dusted it up a little. Killer! :laugh:
@Chuk, jrutman and Luiz,
Thank you very much kind gentleman! These are very nice compliments and they mean a lot to me
@ TomN:
Thanks Tom!
Try out this link to a TM that's been very helpfull in building the gun, maybe you can you it for reference
Flak 88 mm Technical Manual
@ Arturius asked
So glad you like it, Arturius
I'm going to try to explain it in the best possible way.
After preshading with black, the initial basecoat is done with Tamiya Acrylics; Desert Yellow (XF-59) Buff (XF-57) and some white. Try to paint the gun in a lighter shade than you want it to be finished. It's easier to darken the colors in the weathering process than it is to lighten them.
Now as you will notice the color you have applied looks a little dull so it's time to give it a more yellowish hue. This can be done in several ways: by applying a local wash with Yellow Ocre oil paint, or by using Vallejo Acrylics, very much thinned down, keep it subtle.
Try to alter the color of the wash by lighten it or using more yellow. The Vallejo Acrylics I used for the wash s a mixture of 025 Dark Yellow,70954 Yellow Green and 70815 Basic Skintone. With these three colors you can mix ervery shade of dark yellow you want to. Pick out the pieces of the gun you want to emphasize and paint them in a different shade than you did the rest. This will create interest. Always keep the paint translucent.
Next you add the shadows by using oil paint. I used Van Dyck Brown, Payne's Grey and Prussian Blue. As with the local washes you try to give the shadows of the different parts of the gun other shades; which ones is entirely up to you. The shadows are applied with a '000' Winsor and Newton Series 7 brush. Again try to keep the yellow tone of your basepaint by applying the shadows only in the places you want them to be in. You can correct them using a brush dipped in turpentine wiped off until it's moist not wet.
Now it's time for the micro painting. This means appliying scratches and paint wear all around the metal parts of the gun.
Use the same light colour mixture of Acrylics to simulate the paint wear and Vallejo Dark Rust 302 for the scratches.
When you're satisified with the result, seal it with a satin varnish. Only in those place catching the light directly, this will add to realism I think.
I know it's a long story and I hope I didn't bore you too much but that's the way I did the Flak weathering:
10% inspiration and 90% transpiration.
If you have any more questions just ask, I'll do my best to be as clear as possible.
Greetings,
Frank
Thank you very much kind gentleman! These are very nice compliments and they mean a lot to me@ TomN:
Thanks Tom! Try out this link to a TM that's been very helpfull in building the gun, maybe you can you it for reference
Flak 88 mm Technical Manual
@ Arturius asked
So glad you like it, Arturius
I'm going to try to explain it in the best possible way.
After preshading with black, the initial basecoat is done with Tamiya Acrylics; Desert Yellow (XF-59) Buff (XF-57) and some white. Try to paint the gun in a lighter shade than you want it to be finished. It's easier to darken the colors in the weathering process than it is to lighten them.
Now as you will notice the color you have applied looks a little dull so it's time to give it a more yellowish hue. This can be done in several ways: by applying a local wash with Yellow Ocre oil paint, or by using Vallejo Acrylics, very much thinned down, keep it subtle.
Try to alter the color of the wash by lighten it or using more yellow. The Vallejo Acrylics I used for the wash s a mixture of 025 Dark Yellow,70954 Yellow Green and 70815 Basic Skintone. With these three colors you can mix ervery shade of dark yellow you want to. Pick out the pieces of the gun you want to emphasize and paint them in a different shade than you did the rest. This will create interest. Always keep the paint translucent.
Next you add the shadows by using oil paint. I used Van Dyck Brown, Payne's Grey and Prussian Blue. As with the local washes you try to give the shadows of the different parts of the gun other shades; which ones is entirely up to you. The shadows are applied with a '000' Winsor and Newton Series 7 brush. Again try to keep the yellow tone of your basepaint by applying the shadows only in the places you want them to be in. You can correct them using a brush dipped in turpentine wiped off until it's moist not wet.
Now it's time for the micro painting. This means appliying scratches and paint wear all around the metal parts of the gun.
Use the same light colour mixture of Acrylics to simulate the paint wear and Vallejo Dark Rust 302 for the scratches.
When you're satisified with the result, seal it with a satin varnish. Only in those place catching the light directly, this will add to realism I think.
I know it's a long story and I hope I didn't bore you too much but that's the way I did the Flak weathering:
10% inspiration and 90% transpiration.
If you have any more questions just ask, I'll do my best to be as clear as possible.
Greetings,
Frank
