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1929 Ford Woody

Greg Kimsey

Greg Kimsey

Well-known member
So, here is another for Bob, a 1929 Ford Woody. I am building this version:
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I have to chassis primed and painted except for the wood grain bed bottom on the underside
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The cab is primed and I have the roof painted
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The tires are done. I rounded off the backside of the spokes and made them smaller by using an Xacto knife
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Now for the motor.. this is the sum total of parts for the entire engine. 4 pieces
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That really just won't do. I am detailing the starter here...
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I even put a "fuse" on the starter which is right out in the open on top of the starter. I have some very good reference photos of this very model in the colors I need. The engine compartment is small and there aren't tons of wiring so it should be easy to replicate.
That is all I have so far. I think I am going to enjoy this one
 
Got the wood planks underneath painted. I started with acrylics, leather brown, then a dry brush of white. I helped it dry with a hair dryer, then put a light coat of mineral spirits to prime the surface and used Raw Umber and Ivory Black oil paint, applied in slotches then a line in the grooves between boards. It dried for a few minutes then I used a clean #2 round brush and mineral spirits to move the paint in streaks,, taking some off or adding more paint as needed to get the look of wood.

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I got a little bit accomplished this morning. I made a new gear stick with .035" brass rod and two fly fishing beads. The counter sink bead made a perfect boot and a slotted bead made the handle. Cyano filled in the gaps and glued them in place. I painted with gloss black enamel.
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The front and rear suspension are assembled. On the front suspension, the pin that holds the rotating hub "bushing" is strangly designed. Two "C" shaped half-holes are aligned alternately and you glue the pin in place. It kept coming loose, so I cut four wedges from .04 styrene and glued them in place
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I have a little extra time in the mornings now since my son and I are trying the intermittant fasting thing, so no breakfast. We fast from 8pm til noon the next day. Take in healthy from noon til 8pm. Day 2 is in the books. So far I haven't killed anyone who is eating while I can't so I call it a win.
 
I tried my hand at making a piano hinge so I could split the hood and have it open like the real vehicle. This was my second attempt, and it DOES work, but I see a way to improve it for better adhesion to the hood halves. I will take photos of "how I did it" for the next one.
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moon puppy said:
Brave man, looks good. :popcorn
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I didn't cut it apart until I was sure I could make the hinge LOL. I looked closely at the Detail Master hinge kit and mimicked it by hand with a ruler and Xacto. I will go into detail on how I did it in case someone is interested.
 
I will show you how I made the hinges as if I know what I am doing. I am totally winging this whole thing. I used thin brass sheet (it is what I had that was the right thinness to cut with a hobby knife. I don't think the type of metal is critical as long as it is easy enough to cut yet strong enough to hold the pin.
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I used piano wire for the long hinge pin. It seems stringer that brass rod.
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By the end I had changed the way I cut the teeth but did not take new photos so I will do my best to explain. For the size of wire I am using I needed 2mm long teeth for the teeth that will wrap around the wire. At first I thought I would cut extra long teeth then trim to length but in the end and on the third try I measured and scored a line at 2mm and measured and cut a line 4mm from the first line (6mm from the edge. I don't think that length is critical but I wanted a lot of surface to epoxy to the hood halves. Cut using several passes. Score with one or two passes using tha back of the blade point.
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I measured 2mm wide teeth and troughs and made marks with the back of the Xacto blade. BTW, use a fresh sharp blade. I used 3 blades for this whole endeavor. They are still sharp enough for plastic so I just set them aside for later.
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Cut the teeth using several passes if using a hobby knife. If you have PE cutting scissors it is easier. Just cut to the scored line.
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USe tweezers and bend the tooth to be removed back and forth until it breaks off.
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For the opposite side hinge the teeth will need to be a little smaller. I made the teeth 1¾x2mm and the trough 2¼x1mm so the fit easily into the matching side.
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Intersect the teeth and lay the wire at the intersection.
Remember I did not take new photos of the teeth cut to correct size so imagine they are 2mm long. Use an exacto blade or tweezers and fold the two end teeth at both ends over to hold the pin in place.
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Then alternately fold the teeth over to secure the pin.
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All nice and neat.
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I measured the thickness of the plastic hood and scored a bend line then bent the metal sheet (not pictured...sorry). I used a diamond file and scuffed both the metal and the plastic where the epoxy bond would be. I used 15 minute epoxy, smearing a thin film on both the metal and the plastic, then held the pieces together with miniature clothes pins to dry.
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A quick test showed it seemed to work. I left the pin long at both ends because I will need to us them to add secure the hood to the model.

I hope that made sense!
 
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Nice! Well done Greg. I had some hinges on the brass halftrack like that years ago, in fact, I didn't even attempt them. :rotf Good job and nice step by step.
 
moon puppy said:
Nice! Well done Greg. I had some hinges on the brass halftrack like that years ago, in fact, I didn't even attempt them. :rotf Good job and nice step by step.
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Great! Thank you! I was afraid I had blown it by forgetting to take new photos of the correct way to do it.
 
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