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Yes, she was a bit of a magnet. After the last hit they relegated her to a training carrier for what was left of the war. From what I've read she didn't have the maneuverability of the Yorktown and Essex classes and the placement and speed of her elevators slowed down aircraft handling.I did not realize that the Saratoga was used all through the war though it received a number of hits and had to spend time in dry dock several times. All the war films talk about the Lexington, The Hornet, The Enterprise, and the Yorktown, and I can't remember ever hearing anything mentioned about the Saratoga. I had thought it had been retired before the war.
I haven't had that experience yet. I've built only one or two armor models in my life and they both had vinyl tracks. I'm sure that will be coming, though.At least they are not tracks.![]()
I've got some airplanes from Tom on the way to fill the flight deck up a bit more, plus some extra PE for the Enterprise.I like the Tom's Modelworks 1/700 20mm guns the best. The p/e pedestals are a little too tall, but otherwise the look the part on my 1/700 PT Boats and YMS-1. These look like genuine nut-busters! Yike!
Consider this as well. Every time you add an accessory to a model kit, you create the opportunity for a flaw. 2 of the best ship modelers I know paint everything else first, then add the painted p/e, and carefully glue it on with teensie drops of c/a.I've got some airplanes from Tom on the way to fill the flight deck up a bit more, plus some extra PE for the Enterprise.
I think after these two ships I might have to do a couple projects a lot lighter on the extras. This gets expensive!
Yeah, I know I'm sticking my neck out but I can't help myselfConsider this as well. Every time you add an accessory to a model kit, you create the opportunity for a flaw. 2 of the best ship modelers I know paint everything else first, then add the painted p/e, and carefully glue it on with teensie drops of c/a.
The deepest, darkest, ship model secret is that after it's all said and done, we touch up the glue shinies with Testors Dull-cote and brush.
I use Infini elastic rigging line. The 45 denier stuff is still the same scale diameter as your arm, but it looks convincing and is easy to install with a little practice.
Al, If you already know all these tricks, belay my last and be a happy guy!
2 of the best ship modelers I know paint everything else first, then add the painted p/e, and carefully glue it on with teensie drops of c/a.
Expert ship models builders such as Mark Karolus, Richard Sliwka, David Waples and Carl Musselman all paint horizontal surfaces first, then, shooting up at an angle, painted the verticals. A little touch-up at the deck/bulkhead line is needed. I learned my "tricks" from men such as these. I am pleased to pass on their techniques.Yeah, I know I'm sticking my neck out but I can't help myself.
I was thinking the same sort of thing about adding the PE later, rather like how ships are fitted out after they're launched. It's nice to know it aligns with their technique!
I was wondering about what to use for rigging line, thanks!
Ah, and I see lycra thread is used for fly-tying also. I wonder if I can get more thread for the buck that way.A suggestion?1/200, 1/350 Black Ship Rigging 110 Denier - Medium (45m / 145ft) Infini Model IR1101B
Buy 1/200, 1/350 Black Ship Rigging 110 Denier - Medium (45m / 145ft) by Infini Model (INF-IR1101B). Shop model ships & boats by scale Misc online at BNA Model World.www.bnamodelworld.com
Tell all your US-based friends about the website! I can ship internationally, but all the VAT and other such taxes are on the buyer. I don't have that tax certificate.Ah, and I see lycra thread is used for fly-tying also. I wonder if I can get more thread for the buck that way.
Aside from the flight deck, the horizontal surfaces are pretty narrow on a carrier, catwalks and the island. It's going to be a challenge.
Not much for social media, but I found your website. Nice!
Not that he sales tax free, he just doesn't pay them.I don't have that tax certificate.