1:232 U.S.S Olympia Protected Cruiser.

[Plastik Smurff]

Well,I'm gunna give this a crack and see what happen's.
I may need protecting myself with this multimedia cracker. :idonno

 

[moon puppy]

Welcome aboard!

 

[MrT]

Is this the premium version? Got to watch this one.

Terry

 

[Plastik Smurff]

No this is just the standard version.I have been told that the premium kit is not available in Aus.
Just etch and resin in this one.

 

[MrT]

No this is just the standard version.I have been told that the premium kit is not available in Aus.
Just etch and resin in this one.

Should be a cool build.

Terry B)

 

[Plastik Smurff]

First step is to remove all these stauchin post's so the etch railins can go on.
Any tip's on how to attach them,and should I paint them first?

Sorry about the poor pic quality,it's all I got to work with.

 

[moon puppy]

I'm with ya Smurf, you really have to thnk out loud how to paint a ship. Sand flat where you remove the stanchions and drill short holes where you want to place the PE stanchions.

 

[Plastik Smurff]

Drill them eh,there aint much meat there to do it.

 

[moon puppy]

hmm..like I said, thinking out loud.

I picked up the Graf Spee again and can't even think what color I was using

you got a picture of the replacement stanchion?

 

[Plastik Smurff]

I have taken this pic but because of my poor camera (cannot do close up work) I don't think it's much use.
Have measured the hull thickness and I have approx 1mm to play with.

Plus I have to remove the lifebelt ring's to fit the etch ones on,a bas***d without a dremmel. :evil:

 

[moon puppy]

Personaly I think you'd be better off with out the dremal, I rarely use mine, too much wobble in the motor. Need a good set of drill bits.

Those are the same style railings I have with the Graf Spee, and i'm too that point. Let you know what I come up with

 

[Sharkmouth]

Plus I have to remove the lifebelt ring's to fit the etch ones on,a bas***d without a dremmel. :evil:

Removing details is best done with hand held chisel knives. Before buying the Mission Models Micro Chisel (the lesser of two evils as I will not buy Micro-Marks version) I used to put the narrowest X-Acto chisel blade into a vise at an angle to snap it into a narrower blade. Much happier with the Micro-Chisel now so much so that I bought the optional scribing blades as well. Click the image below to read a review (not mine):



Regards,

 

[moon puppy]

OK Smurff, here's what I did. Once you get the railings separated I ran a bead of Medium CA down the bottom edge of the rail. Start short, don't try to place the entire run in one shot. I worked in sections like up to a turn, let the CA harden then run some more under that bottom rail and work on down the next section. I'm finding that the sections are longer than what they should be. Just cut off what's not needed.

Hope this helps.

 

[Plastik Smurff]

Righto that sound's a smart way of working em,will try that.Thank's moon puppy.
Got some Zip Kickker for that style of glue to.
Thanks sharkmouth for the tool tip,will have to source them over here.

 

[Plastik Smurff]

Have glued the sponson door's on around the cannon mounts.

Hard to bend these bugger's without the proper tool's,plus the overall fit is a little ordinair.
A little gap filling glue and they should be ok.

 

[moon puppy]

 

[Plastik Smurff]

After years of pushing this kit to one side I'am blowing the dust off her. ldguy
The catalyst to this momentous decision was the purchase of Adam Wilder's DVD Dealing with Photoetch.
While looking like a creepy janitor in alot of the dvd he does explain and show working with this medium in a clear and simple way including soldering.
So before I lose to many more pieces of this kit (lost the props to it so far)I will chip away at it and get to grips with the P/E and dodgy instructions.

Base coat in readiness for the oil work for the deck.

 

[moon puppy]

 

[lupanzer]

Cool... :captain .....

Luiz

 

[Rhino]

I've heard of putting the p/e rails on one deck at a time, and painting that deck, and assembling as you go. 1/232 should prove much easier (or harder) than smaller scales. Remember, Future is a dandy slow setting adhesive when you attach dinky parts.
Theodore might say "This is Bully!" I admire your courage!!