Lesson one. The basic wash.
For this step, you will need;
1) Artist's Rectified turpentine.
2) Raw Umber artist's oil.
3) An old t-shirt, (Preferably white or light colored).
4) A wide, flat soft bristle brush, (Preferably a Filbert)
5 An old bottle, cleaned thoroughly.
6) A pallet, I use an old card stock with a shiny finish. (To avoid the paint absorbing into the pallet.
Then, squeeze out about a half inch of the oil onto the pallet.
Throughout this basic wash tutorial, I am going to assume that everybody watching is a complete novice, so, no, I'm not a jerk, I want to make sure I cover it for everybody! I swear, most model tutorials always seem to me that the author is more concerned with impressing his readers than teaching anything. Just sayin'
Just in case you are too young to know what "blot" means. I'm old and we used to blot ink! Blot is placing your T-shirt covered finger on the wet wash, soaking up what it does, Never wiping, pulling back, moving your finger to a clean area of the t-shirt, then blotting once more and repeating over and over and over.
Also, rectified turpentine is extremely flammable. Use caution when using it. I always pour some into an old, clean bottle that is capable of being sealed. Always seal any container of rectified turpentine when not in use. I would advise strongly against using it out of the container it comes in. I don't smoke, but I would strongly advise any of you smokers to never smoke around rectified turpentine.
Then the brush.
Then, dip the clean, dry brush into the bottle of rectified turpentine. This is a relatively fresh bottle, I used it once to paint something green. The turpentine changing colors doesn't matter at all. I usually use the same portion of turpentine for months and before I change it, it is usually almost black and opaque. That doesn't effect anything except if you are using it to thin white or yellow. In fact, you can use the multi-colored turpentine in much the way some use filters. Place the wetted brush on the strip of artist's oil and begin mixing a small portion of the strip.
When it is properly thinned, a small pool to the side should be the consistency of whole milk.
To check if the consistency is correct, paint a strip on a white surface.
Then, wipe it off. It should look like this. This is the only time you will hear me tell you to wipe anything. This is a piece of cardboard, not a model.
On your model, you should NEVER WIPE. Never. I am emphasizing that because that is exactly the first impulse for most people. In fact, here is a rule of thumb that will run through this series on weathering. NEVER RUB or WIPE ANYTHING, EVER!.
Using your index finger, poke into the T-shirt and pull remaining cloth towards you and away from the finger, creating a smooth surface on the tip of your finger.
NOW, BLOT, NOT WIPE the paint mixture off the model. Each time you blot, move your finger to a clean spot on the t-shirt. Continue blotting until most of the opaque mixture has been removed. That does not mean to totally remove it. Just remember, NEVER, EVER WIPE IT! That is where most modelers go wrong.
Here I will illustrate on my sample vehicle. Before the wash.
After painting on the wash. Note that it looks just as though you used regular paint. You cannot see through it. If your wash is translucent, then your wash is too thin. It should look like this on your model.
Then you blot away, each time, changing to a new, clean place on the t-shirt.
Here, the wash in this area is complete, next, go to another section, avoiding overlap as much as possible, but if you do a bit, no big deal!
You will notice, some of the wash left on the surface in the corners is still wet and glossy. That is how you want it to look. After a couple of days, three at the most, it will dry dead flat, become very subtle and blend well to the O.D. base coat. If it doesn't, then you have used another thinning medium than rectified turpentine.
Here are a couple of shots of a Jumbo Sherman I have only applied this wash to. No other processes, only the wash. Yours should look the same after a couple of days drying.
This is the end of the first step. If you have any questions, please ask them on this thread.
Bob
For this step, you will need;
1) Artist's Rectified turpentine.
2) Raw Umber artist's oil.
3) An old t-shirt, (Preferably white or light colored).
4) A wide, flat soft bristle brush, (Preferably a Filbert)
5 An old bottle, cleaned thoroughly.
6) A pallet, I use an old card stock with a shiny finish. (To avoid the paint absorbing into the pallet.
Then, squeeze out about a half inch of the oil onto the pallet.
Throughout this basic wash tutorial, I am going to assume that everybody watching is a complete novice, so, no, I'm not a jerk, I want to make sure I cover it for everybody! I swear, most model tutorials always seem to me that the author is more concerned with impressing his readers than teaching anything. Just sayin'
Just in case you are too young to know what "blot" means. I'm old and we used to blot ink! Blot is placing your T-shirt covered finger on the wet wash, soaking up what it does, Never wiping, pulling back, moving your finger to a clean area of the t-shirt, then blotting once more and repeating over and over and over.
Also, rectified turpentine is extremely flammable. Use caution when using it. I always pour some into an old, clean bottle that is capable of being sealed. Always seal any container of rectified turpentine when not in use. I would advise strongly against using it out of the container it comes in. I don't smoke, but I would strongly advise any of you smokers to never smoke around rectified turpentine.
Then the brush.
Then, dip the clean, dry brush into the bottle of rectified turpentine. This is a relatively fresh bottle, I used it once to paint something green. The turpentine changing colors doesn't matter at all. I usually use the same portion of turpentine for months and before I change it, it is usually almost black and opaque. That doesn't effect anything except if you are using it to thin white or yellow. In fact, you can use the multi-colored turpentine in much the way some use filters. Place the wetted brush on the strip of artist's oil and begin mixing a small portion of the strip.
When it is properly thinned, a small pool to the side should be the consistency of whole milk.
To check if the consistency is correct, paint a strip on a white surface.
Then, wipe it off. It should look like this. This is the only time you will hear me tell you to wipe anything. This is a piece of cardboard, not a model.
On your model, you should NEVER WIPE. Never. I am emphasizing that because that is exactly the first impulse for most people. In fact, here is a rule of thumb that will run through this series on weathering. NEVER RUB or WIPE ANYTHING, EVER!.
Using your index finger, poke into the T-shirt and pull remaining cloth towards you and away from the finger, creating a smooth surface on the tip of your finger.
NOW, BLOT, NOT WIPE the paint mixture off the model. Each time you blot, move your finger to a clean spot on the t-shirt. Continue blotting until most of the opaque mixture has been removed. That does not mean to totally remove it. Just remember, NEVER, EVER WIPE IT! That is where most modelers go wrong.
Here I will illustrate on my sample vehicle. Before the wash.
After painting on the wash. Note that it looks just as though you used regular paint. You cannot see through it. If your wash is translucent, then your wash is too thin. It should look like this on your model.
Then you blot away, each time, changing to a new, clean place on the t-shirt.
Here, the wash in this area is complete, next, go to another section, avoiding overlap as much as possible, but if you do a bit, no big deal!
You will notice, some of the wash left on the surface in the corners is still wet and glossy. That is how you want it to look. After a couple of days, three at the most, it will dry dead flat, become very subtle and blend well to the O.D. base coat. If it doesn't, then you have used another thinning medium than rectified turpentine.
Here are a couple of shots of a Jumbo Sherman I have only applied this wash to. No other processes, only the wash. Yours should look the same after a couple of days drying.
This is the end of the first step. If you have any questions, please ask them on this thread.
Bob
:Hiay :dude 
