Looking good Greg!
Were your ears burnin' this morning? We were talking about your generosity and talent.
Were your ears burnin' this morning? We were talking about your generosity and talent.
-
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Revell '65 Mustang Fastback
- Thread starter Greg Kimsey
- Start date
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
So that's why! LOL
I really wanted to be there. Mom wasn't having it this morning. It happens from time to time now.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
So, we were on vacation for about 10 days and I have been out of touch. I am back at the model desk and am working on the rear seat for the fastback. The kit has a static back seat that does not move. Following along with A4garage I thought I would give it a try to see if I can make the seat move. It isn't perfect since there is a gap between the rear panel and the seat back, but it's relatively close and works.
This is the kit part for the seat back and the front hinged piece, all of which are affixed and won't move:
so, were the seat be able to fold, everything would rest on the rim going around the rear walls. The seat back is a little thick, and will be even thicker once I glue a backer to it. I am using .3" styrene sheet. Here is the seat back where I glued a strip of styrene to support the backer.
Since the seat back is higher than the rim once it is folded down I had to build it up. I used .5x.5mm styrene rod and built it up 2 stacks. I would have used .5x1mm but didn't realize it needed to be that high until after I had glued the first level on. I finally realized the curves in the back would be covered and never seen so I quit trying to curve the strips so carefully since it doesn't matter.
I glued a metal tube to the bottom of the seat back, drilled holes through the sides of the model, and used cut off straight pins to make a hinge. The way the seat is designed for the model I had to leave a space behind that section. The hinge "sort of" looks like the seat details which worked out well.
For the front fold-down piece I used angle styrene rod to reinforce the shape. I cut two pieces of .3" thick styrene sheet and glued to the angle rod to make the "L" shaped front fold-down. I cut a 5mm length of metal tube and glued into a routed out section at the back corners. I used the pins again and bent them 90* after putting them through the tube. I drilled a small hole into a routed section of the seat back to insert the bent pin.
Once in place, everything looks like it will work:
To cover the gap I had the idea of using tape as a sliding cover. I glued a piece of metal strip as weight to pull the cover back down flat when the seat was lowered. It looks crooked but I have since straightened it.
Of course there is a lot of clean-up, sanding, and painting to do, but it looks like I have a functioning rear seat.
This is the kit part for the seat back and the front hinged piece, all of which are affixed and won't move:
so, were the seat be able to fold, everything would rest on the rim going around the rear walls. The seat back is a little thick, and will be even thicker once I glue a backer to it. I am using .3" styrene sheet. Here is the seat back where I glued a strip of styrene to support the backer.
Since the seat back is higher than the rim once it is folded down I had to build it up. I used .5x.5mm styrene rod and built it up 2 stacks. I would have used .5x1mm but didn't realize it needed to be that high until after I had glued the first level on. I finally realized the curves in the back would be covered and never seen so I quit trying to curve the strips so carefully since it doesn't matter.
I glued a metal tube to the bottom of the seat back, drilled holes through the sides of the model, and used cut off straight pins to make a hinge. The way the seat is designed for the model I had to leave a space behind that section. The hinge "sort of" looks like the seat details which worked out well.
For the front fold-down piece I used angle styrene rod to reinforce the shape. I cut two pieces of .3" thick styrene sheet and glued to the angle rod to make the "L" shaped front fold-down. I cut a 5mm length of metal tube and glued into a routed out section at the back corners. I used the pins again and bent them 90* after putting them through the tube. I drilled a small hole into a routed section of the seat back to insert the bent pin.
Once in place, everything looks like it will work:
To cover the gap I had the idea of using tape as a sliding cover. I glued a piece of metal strip as weight to pull the cover back down flat when the seat was lowered. It looks crooked but I have since straightened it.
Of course there is a lot of clean-up, sanding, and painting to do, but it looks like I have a functioning rear seat.
Most excellent work Greg. 
centaur567
Well-known member
Wow! This is taking it to a whole new level. Well done. Gary S.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Turns out the body was nowhere ready to paint! Sanding marks everywhere.
Yep, shows up with some paint. you got this. 
centaur567
Well-known member
It's one of those axioms of modeling. Looks smooth till you paint it, when the paint looks "good" you've missed a spot or a hair shows up, and parts seem to fit until you apply glue. Gary S.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Yep, wet sanding and give it another go. I actually had forgotten a step I wanted to do anyway which was to paint the whole outer part of the car chrome then paint the red over the top of it. So once I get the crome on it I should see any scratches that need additional work until that part is as good as I can make it, then the red should be even better!
paddy
Well-known member
When i get occasionally fed up or depressed with what i am doing i look at what you are doing and it cheers me up, the rear seat is great, just the fact that you give these things a go is brilliant 
I think you are a great example of how you dont have to spend much to have a load of fun and working things out is often more fun than just sticking parts together.
I think you are a great example of how you dont have to spend much to have a load of fun and working things out is often more fun than just sticking parts together.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Thanks Paddy! That means a lot
Chris, I have a feeling a Molotow chrome marker is going to be a closer personal friend when I am finished!
I spent most of yesterday and a lot of today using blender to create files for the air cleaner (kit garbage), fuel pump (not included), oil filter (molded garbage) and alternator (not up to snuff). They are printed and look great.
So, when I was getting the body ready for repaint I realized to doors were a little tight in their openings so I worked them over so they fit perfectly now (or at least much better). I need to affix the magnets and get them lined up and puttied. I want to make the door hinges so I can paint them in place. It was really nowhere near painting ready!
Chris, I have a feeling a Molotow chrome marker is going to be a closer personal friend when I am finished!
I spent most of yesterday and a lot of today using blender to create files for the air cleaner (kit garbage), fuel pump (not included), oil filter (molded garbage) and alternator (not up to snuff). They are printed and look great.
So, when I was getting the body ready for repaint I realized to doors were a little tight in their openings so I worked them over so they fit perfectly now (or at least much better). I need to affix the magnets and get them lined up and puttied. I want to make the door hinges so I can paint them in place. It was really nowhere near painting ready!
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
I do indeed! Thank you
@Greg Kimsey, @Rhino does mighty fine work. I am quietly working on my Havocs, whenever I need a break from the snakes, and I couldn't really do them justice without the superb noses from TLAR's Chris!
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
It is a 289 sir! Just like my real one...that is in a million pieces and likely to stay that way LOL
