• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Color Selection

moon puppy

Administrator
Staff member
I guess I should have paid more attention in art class than I did. I been noticing more and more how the selection of colors to highlight, accent or fade and darken our base colors is a make or break for the effect we're going for.

This doesn't matter if we're doing armor, aircraft or figures. The colors we select has major effect on the outcome of our models.

So the question is, how do you select the colors you use for weathering, finishing?

Is there some formula or established procedure that I missed out on in art class that could help in that selection?
 
The colors are variations of the base either lighter or darker. What color are you looking at?

Terry B)
 
I'm talking about in general. Or is it something we have to be specific with?

Let's say for now the German Dark Yellow I'm working with on the Tiger.
 
:Hiay

MP - there are 2 different overall approaches that both encompass a large amount of fine detail within each, but to be basic about it, you can either start dark and go light, or start light and enhance and shade with dark.
In the end the point of the exercise is to give depth and highlights that bring the model to life.
It works the same way as a painting -
a picture done in flat 1 dimensional colors is very boring and will not hold your interest for long, like a painting done by a 4 year old - very basic and flat looking.

A painting done using a variety of colors that build from a base, using the base colour to create lighter versions of itself[OR DARKER] and apply in a subtle random way will imitate the real world where single flat colors do not exists except on sports cars.

The hard part is knowing where and when to stop.
Reference photos are a must, and experience - you will know when it works, and that is usually when it is time to stop on that section.

Always do a little not a lot.

Look at profile art work in the reference books and you will see the good artists that have the most realistic images have done the above effects, just in 2d. You can then use these to understand where to apply shadow or enhanced edges etc. Jut look a little more closely, which hardly anyone does. I use them all the time and the ref books I buy are usually determined by how good the profile artist is.
I would also recommend buying a basic how to paint with xxxx from your local art shop as these are very helpful. I have many.

Hope this helps - ask me more if you like.

BROKENEAGLE
 
Great tips Ian, really like what you're saying.

The one thing that trips me up is what colors to use against the base but I guess that comes from experience. I always wondered if there is some formula used, or some standard guide.
 
Great tips Ian, really like what you're saying.

The one thing that trips me up is what colors to use against the base but I guess that comes from experience. I always wondered if there is some formula used, or some standard guide.

:hmmm
Your first base color can be whatever you want.
Lighter colors will then make your follow-up color lighter and vice versa I usually start with an Acrylic grey of some kind.
- Light grey if i want to check for imperfections in the finish.
- Dark grey for everything except German dark yellow [factory applied - not field over-spray]
Sometimes I airbrush some pre-shadow in corners or on panel lines -just depends on how dark the first tank color will be. If is going to be quite dark I don't bother. IE: really dark grey or green.

You must also have a good knowledge of the subject's range of colors and history etc. - this is then added to the standard effects like stains , rust and wear.

As stated ,you just use the base color and go darker for variations in the color or staining and lighter for highlights. This is why I use oils over the Acrylic base coat as they give you mega control over a standard one color base. You won't be able to get the effect with acrylics as they dry to quick and interact completely differently.

But this is only my way, other people use washes /filters extensively from the base coat to achieve the result from a different angle.
Just to confuse you sometimes I mix it up - and I haven't mentioned pigments yet.

It is very involved and I can only compare it to any trade or skill that cannot be mastered without a good control over the whole effect, having a understanding of varied techniques and where they will lead you for the final result.
As I stated in my Stug build, I always get a satisfying result when I go in knowing what I want at the end. This actually helps the experimentation because you have color direction.
My Uboat was like that; I had never done a waterline U-boat with white water combined with deep ocean colors and a dark steel surface, but even though it was new ground I knew what I wanted in texture and color and could go forward with that as my target.

Does that help?
 
Very much so Ian, thanks (y)

Guess I need to get a subject to the point of painting and absorb this more.
 
Hey Moon

You might want to check out this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Color-Mixing-Recipes-Oil-Acrylic/dp/1560108738/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_z

I just picked up the one for portrait painting at Hobby Lobby for $10 + 40% off coupon.

I've only fliped through it but it looks very handy and shows what colors
to use to darken and lighten colors, some quite surprising.

Tom
 
Hey Moon

You might want to check out this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Color-Mixing-Recipes-Oil-Acrylic/dp/1560108738/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_z

I just picked up the one for portrait painting at Hobby Lobby for $10 + 40% off coupon.

I've only fliped through it but it looks very handy and shows what colors
to use to darken and lighten colors, some quite surprising.

Tom


Good info Tom . Thank you :) Been looking for the college art class to offer something like this but no Joy .

Now I need to go by Hobby lobby and eyeball one .

They are definitely cheaper on Amazon though .

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Was around $6 with coupon.

If you didn't know, just go to their website and print one off, I think there's
even an app for smart phones.

Tom
 
I knew about the coupons Tom. Thanks :)

This is however a series of books and they are available on Amazon very reasonably . Need to eyeball them first though to see what my needs are. :hmmm

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Back
Top