panzerace007
Active member
Hey,
This is a method that I picked up , a little credit goes to PAT STANSELL over at MMiR for th Inspiration - The Modeler's Guide to Modeling the Tiger Tank by Ampersand Publishing(pg. 95 ) This is a technique that I found works for me. You may find a different way.
No need to cringe any more when the P.E. directions call for workable hinges. This example comes from Griffon's Gun Shield Kit for Dragon's Flak-vierling(L35A054) I'm using the hinges to attach an Armor plate to the Main Gun shield. Hope this Helps !!
From the Panzer Shoppe files:
How to make Workable Hinges
Just the notion of this makes even the best modeler cringe. Ill show you an easy way to meld these little pieces of P.E. into a workable application on your next model in 1/35th scale. Its a way to bring even more realism to your Static model.
Ill will be using Griffon Models hinges for 1/35th scale. A set from their German Gun Shields(L35A054) kit for Dragons Flakvierling.
Step 1:
After you separate the two pieces of the hinge from the fret ,the first thing I do is to put a 90 degree bend on the fingers of each one in My Etch-Mate. This gives you a good starting point & helps to pull against the hinge pin.
Step 2:
Next I take the .3mm wire and secure it in Griffon's Workable Hinge & Handle Maker through the holes appropriate for the sized wire, also Ill take some blue painters tape and secure the wire, after bending it, to the Hinge maker to reduce the risk of the wire moving while I'm making the hinges. I follow by taping the Hinge Maker to the table to give me a sturdy base to work off of. In making these hinges Ive found that it is easier to put the two-fingered hinge under the wire first, then slide the single-fingered one under and against the two-fingered piece. Also making sure that the wire stays straight & true. Hinges don't move like they should on a bent pin.
Step 3:
I use a small pair of tweezers to hold the hinge in place while I bend the fingers around the wire with a No.11 X-acto blade. Keeping a close eye on bending the fingers straight.
Step 4:
I take two small chisel blades and push them together tucking the fingers under the wire. Ill gently rock the blades back & forth to snip off the excess. Again tucking the fingers under the wire to tighten up the hinges. At this point you want to look & make sure that the fingers are tight around the wire & that there are no gaps. If not, repeat the process with the blades until the hinges are snug around the wire.
Step 5:
Now you have your hinges formed its time to cut the cord as it were. I'll use a pair of Xuron P.E. scissors & a chisel blade. Placing the chisel against the opposite side to which I'm cutting, Ill hold the hinge in place & snip the wire flush with the side of the hinge. Repeating the process for the other side.
Viola! Workable Hinges. All you have to do now is secure them to the armor plate or door that is necessary. Soldiering these would really test your meddle & you stand the chance of flooding the area with soldier, ruining your hard work. Another way that not as risky, but just as strong is to use 5 minute Epoxy. I use the two-part stuff that comes in separate tubes. After mixing the Epoxy together you have a few minutes, so take this time to make sure that the pieces that the hinges are joining are aligned, square, & ready to be glued. Ill take a sharpened toothpick & dab a very small amount of the Epoxy onto the pieces receiving the hinges.With a pair of tweezers Ill then place the hinges, making sure they are straight & leave to dry. That's just about it. This process make take a couple of times to get used to. Now take this new found knowledge & make all your hinged accessories workable.
Tools used:
Griffons Workable Hinge & Handle Maker (GT001)
Etch-Make
No.11 X-acto blade & X-acto's small chisel blades(x2)
Small pair of tweezers
5 minute Epoxy
Opti-visor (strongly urged)
ERIK ROBERSON
AMPSCV
This is a method that I picked up , a little credit goes to PAT STANSELL over at MMiR for th Inspiration - The Modeler's Guide to Modeling the Tiger Tank by Ampersand Publishing(pg. 95 ) This is a technique that I found works for me. You may find a different way.
No need to cringe any more when the P.E. directions call for workable hinges. This example comes from Griffon's Gun Shield Kit for Dragon's Flak-vierling(L35A054) I'm using the hinges to attach an Armor plate to the Main Gun shield. Hope this Helps !!
From the Panzer Shoppe files:
How to make Workable Hinges
Just the notion of this makes even the best modeler cringe. Ill show you an easy way to meld these little pieces of P.E. into a workable application on your next model in 1/35th scale. Its a way to bring even more realism to your Static model.
Ill will be using Griffon Models hinges for 1/35th scale. A set from their German Gun Shields(L35A054) kit for Dragons Flakvierling.
Step 1:
After you separate the two pieces of the hinge from the fret ,the first thing I do is to put a 90 degree bend on the fingers of each one in My Etch-Mate. This gives you a good starting point & helps to pull against the hinge pin.
Step 2:
Next I take the .3mm wire and secure it in Griffon's Workable Hinge & Handle Maker through the holes appropriate for the sized wire, also Ill take some blue painters tape and secure the wire, after bending it, to the Hinge maker to reduce the risk of the wire moving while I'm making the hinges. I follow by taping the Hinge Maker to the table to give me a sturdy base to work off of. In making these hinges Ive found that it is easier to put the two-fingered hinge under the wire first, then slide the single-fingered one under and against the two-fingered piece. Also making sure that the wire stays straight & true. Hinges don't move like they should on a bent pin.
Step 3:
I use a small pair of tweezers to hold the hinge in place while I bend the fingers around the wire with a No.11 X-acto blade. Keeping a close eye on bending the fingers straight.
Step 4:
I take two small chisel blades and push them together tucking the fingers under the wire. Ill gently rock the blades back & forth to snip off the excess. Again tucking the fingers under the wire to tighten up the hinges. At this point you want to look & make sure that the fingers are tight around the wire & that there are no gaps. If not, repeat the process with the blades until the hinges are snug around the wire.
Step 5:
Now you have your hinges formed its time to cut the cord as it were. I'll use a pair of Xuron P.E. scissors & a chisel blade. Placing the chisel against the opposite side to which I'm cutting, Ill hold the hinge in place & snip the wire flush with the side of the hinge. Repeating the process for the other side.
Viola! Workable Hinges. All you have to do now is secure them to the armor plate or door that is necessary. Soldiering these would really test your meddle & you stand the chance of flooding the area with soldier, ruining your hard work. Another way that not as risky, but just as strong is to use 5 minute Epoxy. I use the two-part stuff that comes in separate tubes. After mixing the Epoxy together you have a few minutes, so take this time to make sure that the pieces that the hinges are joining are aligned, square, & ready to be glued. Ill take a sharpened toothpick & dab a very small amount of the Epoxy onto the pieces receiving the hinges.With a pair of tweezers Ill then place the hinges, making sure they are straight & leave to dry. That's just about it. This process make take a couple of times to get used to. Now take this new found knowledge & make all your hinged accessories workable.
Tools used:
Griffons Workable Hinge & Handle Maker (GT001)
Etch-Make
No.11 X-acto blade & X-acto's small chisel blades(x2)
Small pair of tweezers
5 minute Epoxy
Opti-visor (strongly urged)
ERIK ROBERSON
AMPSCV
