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Wingnut Wings Sopwith Triplane

Yes dont forget we are used to Bight Stainless/polished or bright drawn as we call it but in its natural form its a dull Grey.
One of its very first uses coincidentally was by sopwith in the tripe engine exhaust valves, it was invented by mistake in 1913 by a guy trying to make an alloy for gun barrels that didnt rust so easily in WWI
 
RichB said:
Coward:)

For the curious, after filtering out the chaff, the RAF wires were made from the new metal, stainless steel. They would have been fairly bright when first installed weathering to a dull silver-grey. The control wires were twisted cable and heavily oiled to keep corrosion from between the strands. They weathered to a darker gunmetal color in use.

Cheers,
RichB
Click to expand...
Steel...got it. :rotf
@paddy you might notice I didn't spend a lot of time on the engine. The PE set I got has all sorts of replacement parts for the valves but I just do not have the patience for that. If I were to want to update the engine I would have gotten one of the replacement resin or 3d printed offerings. Hell I didn't even wire it. It'll be covered up mostly. I haven't installed the cowl yet because I don't want to get it scratched up.
 
Well since I'll have some AlcladII Stainless out for the bracing wires I'll hit the valves. Need to wash the engine with castor oil anyway.
 
If this were a Camel I'd be almost done!
Got some of the bracing wires pre set before attaching the mid wing, work smarter not harder...:frantic

20250725_191212.jpg


20250725_191208.jpg



Had to move it to the jig James printed out for me, I know it cost and arm and a leg to ship to me, again, thanks @jknaus James! The rubber bands I had to secure it have dry rotted.
 
Thanks guys, I'm using this .5mm tube with .3 opening, this string I'm using for the bracing wire does fit but just fits and it's a PITA to get it threaded. But once done they work well for an anchor.
 
when i used that .3mm brass tube i bought a length of .3mm piano wire. put it in the tube before i rolled the tube on the scalpel blade to cut it then pull the wire out when its cut the tube stays round and easier to get the thread through. ie the wire stops the tube collapsing under the scalpel pressure.
 
Thanks Paddy, I've used that technique in the past. Right now I'm using some leftover Bob's Buckles bits. My problem has been mostly caffeinated induced alignment issues. :needcoffee:
 
Well I found the best way I can do this now is to take the .5mm tube and pre thread it. Drill hole in the wing and shove the tube end in with some CA, with any luck it doesn't stick to the tweezers before it sticks to plastic. I'll have the upper wing fully rigged when I attach it, then just pull the lines in to where they belong.
There's a bracing wire that traverses the mid wing, I drilled out and placed a .70 pipe in there at the angle of attack that it should be passing through, we'll find out shortly if it works.
 
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