Rhino
Super Moderator
The same for you as for Saul, Great Artiste'!
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Revell '65 Mustang Fastback
- Thread starter Greg Kimsey
- Start date
I know I wasn't but you NEED to know your work, as great as it is, should be appreciated (even if privately). I most certainly do!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Flexshafts with foot speed control have too much torque for tiny drills, especially carbide bits. That flex shaft ends up requiring more stress and force to manipulate it than my old Dremel weight and wire. Plus with the old separate Dremel speed control box, I can really slow the drill down to a few hundred RPM rather than thousands. Yeah, super fine drills pop way easy, but the only ones I ever have trouble with are when drilling out steel screw pieces on watches with a .011 drill bit. Another thing, if you are drilling through sheet brass, set the brass on some acrylic sheet and drill it with a drill press. The acrylic works as a backing so the brass doesn't break through breaking the bit. Also lay the parts out first, drill the holes, then cut the parts out.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Ok, work is slow on the car but I try for a little each day.
The front seats are done and function OK. The screws or rivets for the chrome parts is out of scale but is what I had. The pins for the pivot points are nickel insect pins.
The folding rear seat is a bit of a disappointment. I added the chrome strips around the edges, but once I did that they interfeered with the folding hinges so I had to remove it and use paint. You can see the difference.
Next was spark plug wire boots. I used 1mm styrene rod cut at 45's. I drilled with .4mm bit for the wire insert and .7mm for the distributor end.
On to the distributor. I cut off the post and drilled out for a new .5mm post and glued in a new length of it. I cut a very short length of brass 1mm tube to go over the new post. Using .2mm styrene card I cut a hold down bracket. A miniscule piece of styrene hex rod makes the bolt head. For the vacuum advance I again used the Dremel as a lathe and turned a styrene rod to shape. It may be a bit large. I drilled for a pin in both the distributor and VA and glued it at a right angle from the bolt.
The gold valve covers look good I think. I have the spark plug boots painted and the wires cut ready to wire the engine next.
That is about it. There are a few things waiting in the spray booth.
The front seats are done and function OK. The screws or rivets for the chrome parts is out of scale but is what I had. The pins for the pivot points are nickel insect pins.
The folding rear seat is a bit of a disappointment. I added the chrome strips around the edges, but once I did that they interfeered with the folding hinges so I had to remove it and use paint. You can see the difference.
Next was spark plug wire boots. I used 1mm styrene rod cut at 45's. I drilled with .4mm bit for the wire insert and .7mm for the distributor end.
On to the distributor. I cut off the post and drilled out for a new .5mm post and glued in a new length of it. I cut a very short length of brass 1mm tube to go over the new post. Using .2mm styrene card I cut a hold down bracket. A miniscule piece of styrene hex rod makes the bolt head. For the vacuum advance I again used the Dremel as a lathe and turned a styrene rod to shape. It may be a bit large. I drilled for a pin in both the distributor and VA and glued it at a right angle from the bolt.
The gold valve covers look good I think. I have the spark plug boots painted and the wires cut ready to wire the engine next.
That is about it. There are a few things waiting in the spray booth.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looking good Greg!
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
I felt the same, but this engine was black. Trying to be true to the 1:1 car. Ford went to blue mid 1960. This is a '65.
