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Need help painting 1/35 weapons
- Thread starter Gator
- Start date
:nopics
I've done several methods of gun metal, can't say one better than the other. What are you doing?
the one method I liked best was Gun Metal and then Alclad Blue tint misted over that. I got to do the .50 for the Sherman and I'll show ya.
I've done several methods of gun metal, can't say one better than the other. What are you doing?
the one method I liked best was Gun Metal and then Alclad Blue tint misted over that. I got to do the .50 for the Sherman and I'll show ya.
AndyFettes
Master at Arms
I use one very simple method and paint the metal work black and then run over that with a pencil giving a great metallic shade
Pups process is great btw :drinks
Pups process is great btw :drinks
jknaus
Administrator
I've used flat black with a dry brush of silver, Gun Metal, Gun Bolt from Citadel games Work Shop, gun metal with Tamiya blue weathering pastel and Black with pencil lead. I think best thing is to try until you find something that looks right to you. Each of these works but for a given model seem to look better or worse. Most weapons seem to be a blackish colour or have some blueing to them that I have ever used (SMG, FN C1,FN C2, C7/M16, 30cal GPMG, 50 Cal HMG, Colt 45, Sig Saur, A/C 20MM)
James
James
reconron
Active member
On the Military Modeling site there is a nice piece on how to use it as well;http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=8948
@jknaus:James I had to google FN C1.It's the same weapon as the FN FAL,used in the Dutch military untill somewhere in the 1990's,then it was replaced by the Canadian C7. :woohoo:
Greetings,Ron.
Gator
Well-known member
Thanks for the help. I'll match the Life Color to my Vallejo to get the wood colors. Pup, I can't do the Alclad but I believe Tamiya transparent blue will do the same, don't you think. I've got some Mig gunmetal pigments and tons of different hardness graphite drawing pencils. I'll give it a try on my next figure.
Hi Kenny
Some of the best looking gun barrels I have ever seen were on a 1/15 scale Verlinden SAS jeep.
I asked the builder how he did them.
"Just painted them flat black, then rubbed pencil lead on them," he said.
So...before you you try all sorts of complicated methods, you might want to try the simplest one first.
Just sayin'
Tom
Some of the best looking gun barrels I have ever seen were on a 1/15 scale Verlinden SAS jeep.
I asked the builder how he did them.
"Just painted them flat black, then rubbed pencil lead on them," he said.
So...before you you try all sorts of complicated methods, you might want to try the simplest one first.
Just sayin'
Tom
Kenny, I guess tamiya transparent blue would work, give it a try. Think I'll head to the shop and give it a shot...
Paulw
Well-known member
just a bit of food for thought, no two M-1 barrels are the same shade or color. These guns were parkerized
and as a result have two to three different shades. So dont get too critical on your self. any of the past suggestions will fill the bill. In all my years as a gunner in the Navy I have seen them from black to some different shade of brown gray.
and as a result have two to three different shades. So dont get too critical on your self. any of the past suggestions will fill the bill. In all my years as a gunner in the Navy I have seen them from black to some different shade of brown gray.
Gunfighter45
Member
My recipe for parkerized stuff.
Dark gray base (Humbrol RLM 75)
Flat black wash
When dry, hit the high points with graphite, lightly.
Dark gray base (Humbrol RLM 75)
Flat black wash
When dry, hit the high points with graphite, lightly.
Hey Kenny, here's my attempt. Citadel Gunbolt and I was mistaken about the clear, I used transparent smoke.
Don't look like some of the other metal finish i did..guess I need to check my notes.
Don't look like some of the other metal finish i did..guess I need to check my notes.
You're right Paul, a flat coat may work wonders. But I don't really recall doing a flat coat, and i'm not really sure what gun barrel I did this to so to go back and see what I did. Been preoccupied this week, maybe catch up this weekend if it ever gets here...
This is my method-
1) I base-coat the metal parts silver and the wooden parts a dark khaki color.
2) I wash the silver with a thin wash of blue/black, applying as many times as needed to "Blue" the metal without losing a hint of the silver base coat.
3) I add a wood grain pattern to the khaki base coat on the wood and once that has dried, I wash it with a medium shade of burnt umber.
4) Once dry I will highlight with a very dry brush, those metal high spots requiring wear (if any) with the silver again.
5) Once I have added the appropriate sling, I then usually wash the whole piece in a very, very diluted black wash to "Marry" all of the colors.
Here's one of the KaR98k's in my last diorama - Not a real close up but a reasonable shot.
Oh, all I use are acrylics ... and really cheap ones at that-
1) I base-coat the metal parts silver and the wooden parts a dark khaki color.
2) I wash the silver with a thin wash of blue/black, applying as many times as needed to "Blue" the metal without losing a hint of the silver base coat.
3) I add a wood grain pattern to the khaki base coat on the wood and once that has dried, I wash it with a medium shade of burnt umber.
4) Once dry I will highlight with a very dry brush, those metal high spots requiring wear (if any) with the silver again.
5) Once I have added the appropriate sling, I then usually wash the whole piece in a very, very diluted black wash to "Marry" all of the colors.
Here's one of the KaR98k's in my last diorama - Not a real close up but a reasonable shot.
Oh, all I use are acrylics ... and really cheap ones at that-
AndyFettes
Master at Arms
Ive seen those at hobbylobby but never really thought to buy some to try how do you rate them and is it just water you use or distilled ?
I use regular tap water when applying via brush and they shoot reasonably well through my airbrush once I've found the proper rubbing alcohol to paint ratio. Airbrush cleans up with straight Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. The only drawback is having to mix your own colors. This can be achieved with less than 4 colors and most of the time using 3.
The field grey on these uniforms is a mixture of Leaf Green #528; White #20403 and Black #20404. Shading was done using the base color with a touch of white added, or black added as required.
Hope that helps,
rb