How would you make a concrete surface/base/pad and paint it?
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Making Concrete
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
Swordsman
Active member
I would suggest the woodland scenic street paving systems ..... Here's a link to the video
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/RealisticRoads
Now if you use this stuff called smooth it plus a concrete color of you choice & the paving tape I think you'll love the results ......
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/SmoothIt
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/RealisticRoads
Now if you use this stuff called smooth it plus a concrete color of you choice & the paving tape I think you'll love the results ......
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/SmoothIt
Adam Baker
Active member
I'd either go w/ Hydrocal from Woodland Scenics, or just plain plaster of paris. Either can be scribed for cracks, brickwork, expansion joints, etc. And can be painted w/ regular hobby paints.
The other option, which I've used in the past, is blue insulation foam. It cuts & scribes very easily, and seems to accept paint w/o much trouble.
The other option, which I've used in the past, is blue insulation foam. It cuts & scribes very easily, and seems to accept paint w/o much trouble.
Adam I used blue foam once before and Mr Surfacer started eating into it. Nasty combination.
What I have is the base of the stand for the F5 on a pole. I know
:nopics
And I want to make that look like the concrete pad the pole is mounted into. I have drywall patch that works well, maybe that'll be the trick.
Thanks for the feedback guys, keep'm coming.
What I have is the base of the stand for the F5 on a pole. I know
:nopics
And I want to make that look like the concrete pad the pole is mounted into. I have drywall patch that works well, maybe that'll be the trick.
Thanks for the feedback guys, keep'm coming.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Sounds to me like you just need to build up the base and then the trick will be in the paint. You will need the base color and then there is the sun bleaching, staining from the metal leaching from the plane and the black mold staining (like the black stains in roofing) Looks like a painting challenge if it is a plane mounted on a concrete pylon.
RichB
Well-known member
This base was a HDF plaque. I carved the joint lines for the pads and a few cracks and areas to show it spalling. Then I painted it it a sand-grey, dappling it with craft acrylics using darker and lighter colours, and a couple of washes. The craft acrylics created a little bit of surface texture as they aere stippled on. Added a few spots for fuel and oil leaks. When I was happy with the basic concrete colour, I filled the joint lines with a thin bead of white glue painted dark grey after it was dry.
I have also used some art board that had a pebbled finish. Cut squares for the pads and glued them to the base leaving a slight gap between. Painted them a grey-brown and filled the gaps with white glue painted dark grey.
Cork tile can be used. Usually one side is fairly smooth with finer cracks and the other side has much larger cracks. Cut to size, paint and add the expansion joints.
I have seen some bases done with various grades of sand paper or emery cloth for a bit rougher texture.
For a rougher, broken up surface I have used celluclay mixed with some white glue and rolled out on the display base. The more you roll it out, the smoother it becomes but usually shows a lot of `cracks`.
Spackle or Plaster of Paris can be used. Mix some of the base colour into it in case there are any unexpected cracks. It can be textured as it sets up and extra cracks and breaks added later.
For small areas like figure bases, I have used epoxy putty rolled out.
Cheers,
Rich
I have also used some art board that had a pebbled finish. Cut squares for the pads and glued them to the base leaving a slight gap between. Painted them a grey-brown and filled the gaps with white glue painted dark grey.
Cork tile can be used. Usually one side is fairly smooth with finer cracks and the other side has much larger cracks. Cut to size, paint and add the expansion joints.
I have seen some bases done with various grades of sand paper or emery cloth for a bit rougher texture.
For a rougher, broken up surface I have used celluclay mixed with some white glue and rolled out on the display base. The more you roll it out, the smoother it becomes but usually shows a lot of `cracks`.
Spackle or Plaster of Paris can be used. Mix some of the base colour into it in case there are any unexpected cracks. It can be textured as it sets up and extra cracks and breaks added later.
For small areas like figure bases, I have used epoxy putty rolled out.
Cheers,
Rich
This base was a HDF plaque. I carved the joint lines for the pads and a few cracks and areas to show it spalling. Then I painted it it a sand-grey, dappling it with craft acrylics using darker and lighter colours, and a couple of washes. The craft acrylics created a little bit of surface texture as they aere stippled on. Added a few spots for fuel and oil leaks. When I was happy with the basic concrete colour, I filled the joint lines with a thin bead of white glue painted dark grey after it was dry.
Very nice!
I did this for the base of my Korean Sherman but the ground work separated from the base, even with the white glue added.
Spackling and joint compound seem to be what works best for me. Maybe it's the humidity down in my garage that makes Celuclay behave badly.
Lovin' these options guys, keep'm coming.
Bagge
Well-known member
I used Fireproof mortar to cast concrete blocks before, you mix it with water and then you can cast it the same way as concrete and it has the right color and can be carved to create battledamage
http://shop.vitcas.com/ekmps/shops/vitcasltd/images/vitcas-heatproof-mortar-10kg-19-p.jpg
//Mats
http://shop.vitcas.com/ekmps/shops/vitcasltd/images/vitcas-heatproof-mortar-10kg-19-p.jpg
//Mats
Well that's one way to do it Mats, use concrete! 
I'd try the blue foam again, if you have it on hand. But get some cheap craft store acrylics to paint it. Any solvent
type paints will melt the stuff.
I recently bought a tub of that drywall joint compound (with the blue label). it's working good for what I'm doing
with it, but could be tough to get a nice flat surface with it. You need to put it on in pretty thin layers or it will
take forever to dry.
HTH,
Tom
type paints will melt the stuff.
I recently bought a tub of that drywall joint compound (with the blue label). it's working good for what I'm doing
with it, but could be tough to get a nice flat surface with it. You need to put it on in pretty thin layers or it will
take forever to dry.
HTH,
Tom
Thanks Tom. I got sheets of blue board left over from the house addition.
Got a couple of ideas floating now.
Got a couple of ideas floating now.
