-
Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
This requires that you manually reset your password.
Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.
He219 A7
- Thread starter Paulw
- Start date
Paul,
Glad you decided to go with the spray mottling over the stripes.
After looking at the close-up pic of the fin and rudder on your He 219 I can see paint spatters on the edges of the mottles, paint spatters are caused by two things...paint too thick or PSI too low or a combination of the two. Another thing that might be giving you trouble could be a damaged airbrush with a cracked spray nozzle or the very tip of the needle is slightly bent.
Whenever I want to spray small mottling or fine lines I thin my paint more than usual and drop the PSI down to single digits (sometimes as low as 5) and when spraying hold the airbrush very close to the surface of the model.
ALWAYS test your spray pattern first on an old model or model part, a test spray on a newspaper or paper towel is not a good way to check your spray pattern.
Below are two pics of some of my paint mules I use to test my airbrush spray pattern before attempting to put any paint on a new model. By using these paint mules I have saved a lot of repainting by making sure my paint/thinner ratio and PSI combinations are correct. These paint mules have been painted over and over the past few years.
Below is a pic of my airbrush during cleaning, I use a small piece of paper towel twisted into a fine point and wet it with thinner to reem out the spray nozzle and remove all traces of paint. Also you can see the small tube of Super Lube, this is great stuff and is used to keep the moving parts of the airbrush lubricated. Before I put my airbrush back together after cleaning I use one drop of the Super Lube on the needle and smear it on evenly with a small section of paper towel.
The open jar at the bottom of my pic is prepared beeswax, the beeswax is put on the threads of the spray nozzle with a toothpick and is important as it will ensure there is a good tight seal on the spray nozzle which will make spraying fine lines or smaller mottles (like on your He 219) easier to do without the airbrush 'skipping' during painting.
HTH
Matrixone
Glad you decided to go with the spray mottling over the stripes.
After looking at the close-up pic of the fin and rudder on your He 219 I can see paint spatters on the edges of the mottles, paint spatters are caused by two things...paint too thick or PSI too low or a combination of the two. Another thing that might be giving you trouble could be a damaged airbrush with a cracked spray nozzle or the very tip of the needle is slightly bent.
Whenever I want to spray small mottling or fine lines I thin my paint more than usual and drop the PSI down to single digits (sometimes as low as 5) and when spraying hold the airbrush very close to the surface of the model.
ALWAYS test your spray pattern first on an old model or model part, a test spray on a newspaper or paper towel is not a good way to check your spray pattern.
Below are two pics of some of my paint mules I use to test my airbrush spray pattern before attempting to put any paint on a new model. By using these paint mules I have saved a lot of repainting by making sure my paint/thinner ratio and PSI combinations are correct. These paint mules have been painted over and over the past few years.
Below is a pic of my airbrush during cleaning, I use a small piece of paper towel twisted into a fine point and wet it with thinner to reem out the spray nozzle and remove all traces of paint. Also you can see the small tube of Super Lube, this is great stuff and is used to keep the moving parts of the airbrush lubricated. Before I put my airbrush back together after cleaning I use one drop of the Super Lube on the needle and smear it on evenly with a small section of paper towel.
The open jar at the bottom of my pic is prepared beeswax, the beeswax is put on the threads of the spray nozzle with a toothpick and is important as it will ensure there is a good tight seal on the spray nozzle which will make spraying fine lines or smaller mottles (like on your He 219) easier to do without the airbrush 'skipping' during painting.
HTH
Matrixone
Paulw
Well-known member
That is very good info there Les. I checked the nozzle after the pics were taken and found a clump of paint there which I thought I had removed. I am not opposed to going back over the plane again and re doing the mottles I just wish I could get what I see to come out of my brush but its like me playing piano, I can read the music but it wont come out the fingers.Paul,
Glad you decided to go with the spray mottling over the stripes.
After looking at the close-up pic of the fin and rudder on your He 219 I can see paint spatters on the edges of the mottles, paint spatters are caused by two things...paint too thick or PSI too low or a combination of the two. Another thing that might be giving you trouble could be a damaged airbrush with a cracked spray nozzle or the very tip of the needle is slightly bent.
Whenever I want to spray small mottling or fine lines I thin my paint more than usual and drop the PSI down to single digits (sometimes as low as 5) and when spraying hold the airbrush very close to the surface of the model.
ALWAYS test your spray pattern first on an old model or model part, a test spray on a newspaper or paper towel is not a good way to check your spray pattern.
Below are two pics of some of my paint mules I use to test my airbrush spray pattern before attempting to put any paint on a new model. By using these paint mules I have saved a lot of repainting by making sure my paint/thinner ratio and PSI combinations are correct. These paint mules have been painted over and over the past few years.
Below is a pic of my airbrush during cleaning, I use a small piece of paper towel twisted into a fine point and wet it with thinner to reem out the spray nozzle and remove all traces of paint. Also you can see the small tube of Super Lube, this is great stuff and is used to keep the moving parts of the airbrush lubricated. Before I put my airbrush back together after cleaning I use one drop of the Super Lube on the needle and smear it on evenly with a small section of paper towel.
The open jar at the bottom of my pic is prepared beeswax, the beeswax is put on the threads of the spray nozzle with a toothpick and is important as it will ensure there is a good tight seal on the spray nozzle which will make spraying fine lines or smaller mottles (like on your He 219) easier to do without the airbrush 'skipping' during painting.
HTH
Matrixone
I think I may not only thin it down more but maybe use a flow enhancer. I tried the low and thin route but I still get spider web patterns and runs.
Now I am not opposed to going total Luft if I can get the patterns down right. Lots of stuff to paint and lots to learn. I am glad you have been here to help.
Paul,
I hope what I posted helps.
Two things I forgot to mention in my earlier post, one is I have found out I get far better results when I mix my paint/thinner in a seperate cup instead of using the color cup on the airbrush. I use disposable small plastic cups to mix my paint and THEN pour it into the airbrush paint cup, everytime I mixed my paint/thinner in the cup on the airbrush I did not get as clean a mottle and it looked a little grainy.
The other thing is I use enamel paints from Model Master...since you are using acrylic paints the flow enhancer will help out a lot. But keep this in mind...even with the flow enhancer paint will STILL collect on the tip of the needle, to counter this problem keep a paint brush nearby and knock off the paint buildup on the needle. For painting a model as large as your He 219 you might need to stop every few minutes to check for paint build up on the needle tip. Even with enamel paints there is a problem with paint buildup on the end of the needle when spraying small mottles its not quite as bad as acrylics though.
But no matter what paint you use try mixing your paint/thinner in a seperate container first and then pour it into the airbrush, it works everytime for me.
Matrixone
I hope what I posted helps.
Two things I forgot to mention in my earlier post, one is I have found out I get far better results when I mix my paint/thinner in a seperate cup instead of using the color cup on the airbrush. I use disposable small plastic cups to mix my paint and THEN pour it into the airbrush paint cup, everytime I mixed my paint/thinner in the cup on the airbrush I did not get as clean a mottle and it looked a little grainy.
The other thing is I use enamel paints from Model Master...since you are using acrylic paints the flow enhancer will help out a lot. But keep this in mind...even with the flow enhancer paint will STILL collect on the tip of the needle, to counter this problem keep a paint brush nearby and knock off the paint buildup on the needle. For painting a model as large as your He 219 you might need to stop every few minutes to check for paint build up on the needle tip. Even with enamel paints there is a problem with paint buildup on the end of the needle when spraying small mottles its not quite as bad as acrylics though.
But no matter what paint you use try mixing your paint/thinner in a seperate container first and then pour it into the airbrush, it works everytime for me.
Matrixone
Paulw
Well-known member
This thing is getting close to the end. I got most of the decals on today but the squadron code letter mucked up on me and now I have to make some fictitious squadron letters just to finish the decaling. Ill have to redo the underside in some places because I forgot to future it and I got some micro sol on it and bingo it started to run but the pics are fine and I think I can get this thing going still and make a half decent kit of it.
I shot a light mist of RLM 76 to tone down the 75 a bit. After I repair my damage Ill do some light weathering and see how it looks.
I shot a light mist of RLM 76 to tone down the 75 a bit. After I repair my damage Ill do some light weathering and see how it looks.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Hey, that's looking nice ! :cheer:
Cheers, Christian
Cheers, Christian
Paulw
Well-known member
I thought I would give some progress pics. I really love this plane. Its my best work so far. I had a couple of issues that were totally my fault and some time in the next couple of days Ill finish it and do a better shoot.
Some weathering and a little TLC and Ill call it done. I have some figgys that goes with this also, borrowed from a Dragon Ju 88 G6
Some weathering and a little TLC and Ill call it done. I have some figgys that goes with this also, borrowed from a Dragon Ju 88 G6
Super job on the camo Paul, get you some chrome or silver on that oleo strut and it would stand out. 
I think so too, great job, one of your best to date - take it easy now on the final approach
I agree Paul. It is one of your best so far. Now go build the Mosquito lol. :drinks
Paulw
Well-known member
I can now call this done. Anything left would be cake and I can say it was an enjoyable build and fun trying too keep it from being trashed by anything I did. I finally fulled one off that I can say is a personal best. I hope you guys enjoy it. Also thank you for all the kind comments through out this build.
Good clean build Paul, really nice camo 
