Flux for soldering photo etched parts.

[Ozzie Jo]

After mentioning that I was going to learn to solder in order to build the Voyager etch part of my BR-52 I was given a large length of flux cored solder.
As I have not had previous experience with this and have only seen tutorials with liquid flux I am wondering if it is suitable or not.
Can it be used on small photoetch parts and if so are there any drawbacks with the control of the molten solder?


When searching the forum for info I noticed that Rudi asked the same question but there was no reply. I am hoping that in a more prominent part of the forum there might be someone who sees this and knows the answer.

 

[moon puppy]

I'm sorry I missed Rudi's question and I hope I can address yours.

Most any commercial solder will work for joining brass PE. Know that the Eduards PE has some sort of coating that prevents solder from working with it. Saul has some postings about striping Eduards down to the brass, I'd have to find them later. Also you need to check out Watanaba-san articles about soldering and PE, he's pretty much the mac daddy of working with brass.

Personally, I like the water solvable flux because the clean up is much easier. I also like the solid core solder and solder paste.

I also found that trying to solder small stuff is a waste of time. when the solder heats up it tends to float before solidifying. so when that itty bitty part is all lined up and you apply heat, that split second before the solder turns solid again, the part will turn just so slightly to ruin your day. Use slow cure CA for the small stuff.

 

[Iron Mike]

For small PE work, I prefer Scotch Quick Dry Adhesive, available in the States at Wal-Mart, craft stores and anywhere that sells scrapbooking supplies. It dry fast and clear, doesn't cost much and holds quite well.

I use it for attaching small plastic bits at final assembly too. I use a small, disposable container (like a beer cap) to put a drop of adhesive in, then dip a wire into the glue. Apply the dot to the place you want the part and position. Done!

 

[Ozzie Jo]

Thanks Moon Puppy and Iron Mike. I have already checked out the PE soldering threads on here and a few other external sites. I have the information I need to get my act in gear in regards to starting learning how to do it but wanted to know specifically about the use of flux cored solder and whether it is suitable or not.

I guess sitting down and trying it will also tell me what I need but if anyone still has any pointers on the cored solder I'd be greatful.

 

[moon puppy]

Ozzie Jo wrote:

I guess sitting down and trying it will also tell me what I need but if anyone still has any pointers on the cored solder I'd be greatful.

I think the solder will be fine. Nothing to worry about. Be conscience of the surface you are working on. I started out working on a sheet of steel with a soldering iron then realized when I'm attempting to heat up the parts to be soldered I'm also having to heat up the steel it's resting on thus making the iron work that much harder. Work on something like a marble tile or even wood, something that does not transfer heat.


You're right, sitting down and doing it will give you more insight, it's the best way to learn.

 

[jknaus]

Check to see what type of solder it is. Usually electronics solder has a small amount of flux for last last second cleaning. If it is plumbers solder stop and get the electronics stuff. MP, the only paste I have seen is for plumbers and it is acidic. It will eat away at the pe for a long time. Only use a rosin based flux as it is neutral and will not attack metal. The actual act of soldering doesn't change between a flux core and solid core solder. One thing I have seen done for pe so it does not float away is to cut slivers of solder so you don't have a lot puddle. Just a note, solder is not the glue that binds metal. It acts as an agent to lower the temp at which the surfaces of the metals to be joined "melt". Think of it as salt in boiling water. Add salt and the temp at which the water boils decreases. In PE it doesn't hurt to have a bit more solder, but really it is only an intermediary. HTH
James

 

[jknaus]

Just another thought. If you can get a small piece (maybe 6" x 6") triple diamond or safety glass and have the edges burnished smooth, it works great for a soldering station. It does not transmit the heat too much, doesn't smoke or burn and is easy to clean after. Oh and alcohol works well for cleaning everything just before soldering. The pe, the solder (its a metal and does oxidize). If I think of anything else will let you know.
James

 

[Rudi Richardson]

Jo,

Yeah, I eventually gave up on waiting for a respose to my questions :laugh:

Actually I even put the thought of soldering in the "to do parking lot", and I'm pretty clumbsy and need to practice more before bollocksing up a full PE set :laugh: :laugh: I've gone the Gator Glue route, but am still undecided as to how useful I find it - I know others have had great success with it and rave about it, so I accept that maybe I'm using it wrong :huh: (always a probability with me )

Rudi

 

[moon puppy]

Rudi Richardson wrote:

I've gone the Gator Glue route, but am still undecided as to how useful I find it - I know others have had great success with it and rave about it, so I accept that maybe I'm using it wrong :huh: (always a probability with me )

Rudi

We both must be doing something wrong, I can't figure it out. I used some Gator on the canopy of the F4C so we'll find out how that works but so far I havne't been able to get Gator and PE to stick together. But Tony absolutely rocks it so it has to be something we're doing. I say we kidnap Tony and get him to show us how to work with Gator.

 

[jknaus]

Rudi Richardson wrote:

Jo,

Yeah, I eventually gave up on waiting for a respose to my questions :laugh:

Actually I even put the thought of soldering in the "to do parking lot", and I'm pretty clumbsy and need to practice more before bollocksing up a full PE set :laugh: :laugh: I've gone the Gator Glue route, but am still undecided as to how useful I find it - I know others have had great success with it and rave about it, so I accept that maybe I'm using it wrong :huh: (always a probability with me )

Rudi

Sorry I missed the original question Rudi. Soldering just takes a bit of practice. Rudi, Jo, MP remember if you solder on a metal surface, the other metal will act as a bit of a heat sink and may throw you off your game. I highly recommend safety glass. Also again solid core and flux core are no different except that the flux core gives a last bit of cleaning. Just never use plumbers solder or paste flux. hth and fell free to ask away, I teach a bit of soldering to aircraft techs and should be able to find the info you want.
James

 

[moon puppy]

James, you are a fountain of knowledge. Yeah I learned about soldering on metal the hard way..

 

[jknaus]

moon puppy wrote:

James, you are a fountain of knowledge. Yeah I learned about soldering on metal the hard way..

More like a puddle. Every now and again someone steps in it and stirs something up from the depths :laugh:

James

 

[Ozzie Jo]

Thanks for the input James...very much appreciated. I am glad I read it before I started soldering as it was given to me by a plumber so I guess it is probably plumber's solder...no label or packaging to note otherwise as a length was cut off for me. Although thankfully I would have tried scrap etch before potentially ruining an expensive PE set.

Now I have the info I need I can pick all the supplies up in one trip. Then off to visit my mother of all people who used to teach people to solder for a living many moons ago.