Eduard P-51D in 1/48

[paddy]

Eduard P-51D with Advanced resin set
​

I have never really been a fan of aftermarket parts. How many of us have bought a model on line and added the PE set and various resin parts to the order and received the package to find the kit parts were better than the upgrades ?.

However…..

When the upgrades are parts that are not included in the kit, so additions rather than just replacements, then I make an exception, so when looking at the Eduard website for a Profi pack P-51D I noticed the “Brassin Advanced” pack. It includes the full engine and panels, drop tanks, full gun bays and Hamilton std prop, in Resin, some PE and a few Decals……….what could possibly go wrong ?.

well quite a lot actually. Most of you will know resin parts have pouring blocks and often the line between block and part is not obvious. In a previous life here about 15 years ago when i could feel small parts with my fingers and my eyesight could also see these parts when i dropped them i used to have a go at projects like this with Aires detail sets however most of these rather old sets were based on Hasegawa kits that are no longer available.

Some of these parts look like they were 3D printed by their tubular supports rather than pouring blocks but they are in fact Resin. Maybe they made the resin moulds from 3d printed masters. Anyway the upshot here is the resin kits adds about 100 extra parts which is quite a feat in and already comprehensive 1/48 scale model.
We all know the various Mustang kits and the Eduard one looks par for the course., it includes PE and masks as its a profi pack so i will just show you the resin at this stage

Gun bays and covers

Engine parts

Hamilton Std prop with jig for setting blade angle.

200 Gal Drop tanks ( one piece mouldings)

Engine block with its pouring block

As i said...What could possibly go wrong ????

 

[paddy]

First job with any resin is hours of cleaning up the parts, actually this is easier than the old Aires kits as the attachment points to the blocks is much lighter.

You get the idea, this stuff is mega fragile and even holding these parts firm enough to carve the excess off is a mission... Don't forget this is 1/48..

 

[Heavens Eagle]

I have several of the Eduard Brassin 1/32 scale engine kits and they are just like this. Super fine with Extreme detail. What I believe Eduard does is makes the master in the computer then does a high res printout. Then they use that for the master. No way could most people ever make the masters for these parts any other way.

 

[paddy]

I ordered another one of these sets tonight Paul from Eduard but this is all 3D printed, no resin , for an F4F wildcat as i thought it would be interesting to compare..

 

[moon puppy]

Looks swell Paddy, I take issue with the ignition wires or fuel injector lines, whatever that is, is the space between the lines and the block thin enough to carve out?
The canopy frame is nice, how's the panels, good and thin?

 

[jknaus]

I must say I'm not too impressed with the mold blocks on the fuel tank They look like they would leave quite a blemish. Otherwise looking forward to watching this build come together.
James

 

[paddy]

Hi Bob
The panels are wafer thin, almost transparent however the chances of them fitting round the engine is nil .. i think the idea is that they are displayed alongside the model. You are spot on with the ignition leads, absolutely no chance of saving them, i will replace those on top but the ones on the side will never be seen.

Hi James, one of my pet gripes about resin is where they put the blocks but i am sure there is good reason, like wise when they but ejector marks in wheel bays when they could put them on the other side, i suppose the pin has to go on the inside of a curved surface ?

Its one of the reasons i also bought (not yet arrived) the F4f set which is plastic rather than resin
?

 

[moon puppy]

That's cool!

 

[Impisi]

WOW, this looks like some real fun going on ... where is the popcorn ...

 

[paddy]

With the blocks cut off and the surfaces dressed the gluing, doesnt take much and we have an engine. ...looks like a huge advance but is actually only about 10 parts

 

[moon puppy]

So the offending ignition leads are hidden behind the exhaust ports. No harm no then.

 

[paddy]

Correct Bob, also once painted black and incased behind the outer framework and engine bearers they are way out of sight, also don't forget the whole engine is just over an inch long...the leads under half inch in total.

 

[paddy]

The engine assembles up very well, it consists of approx. 60 parts with the bulkhead and plumbing and including its new outer panels that replace what you need to cut off the original fuselage. Time spent on cleaning up each part will be time saved later when you try and assemble, for example if you don’t get the supercharger parts and carburettor positioned correctly, I doubt you will ever get the engine bearers and outer frame work to fit later, likewise with the positioning of the under engine air intake assembly. If all goes to plan it should look something like this.

I have gone with an interior green bulkhead and engine bearer , chromate tank and silver outer cowling support framework. This seems to be one of many finishes used but does seem to be the more common choice in modern restorations. It may also depend on the overall scheme but again I haven’t decided what to do yet. Normally with a Mustang they are so colourful the finished scheme is an important choice, but I hadn’t really reckoned on the fact I was about to cut the whole front of the model away which removes about 90% of the individual identity of the aircraft. Initially I thought about “Cripes a Mighty” but cut the front off and its basically just a blue rudder ….

 

[Barney]

There are literally thousands of possible marking for P-51s... go wild!

 

[paddy]

Bit of major surgery last night

Its not always the case that panel lines are exactly the same on both sides so while it ok to cut to the lines on one side, always check befor cutting the other side. This Eduard kit is very good.

Make sure you get this right or you have a load of scrap plastic on your hands Secret is to cut about 1mm larger than the panel lines then trim down to size using the ready built engine assembly as a guide.


Juist for fun picture. I always find it hard to reconcile that 1/48 is only half 1/24

 

[moon puppy]

 

[paddy]

Wing surgery complete...the patient is doing well.

Gun bays, although they look like PE they are still resin

There are guides to cut too and they are pretty close but as with the engine, cut small and open up to fit........you cant put it back. As any chippy will tell you measure twice cut once.

Success phew !!

 

[moon puppy]

Well done.

 

[paddy]

Ha ha perfect emoji

 

[Barney]

ooooooooo Ahhhhhhhh