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Another question on primer I hear you all groan!

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Ozzie Jo

Member
Yes .... it is another question on primers.

I have not had a problem with basing my figures with Games Workshop spray paint or automotive primers but now that I have crossed over to armour modelling I have encountered an annoying issue with protecting my photoetch.

I am not a good enough photoetch fiddler to construct the whole kit and kaboodle once let alone finish it and then have all the metal bits fall off when I apply solvent washes.

Is this a perennial problem that I just have to put up with and try to minimize or is there a primer around that gives that little extra protection to the CA glue bond without losing detail with multiple coats?

Thanks in advance.... Jo.
 
Joanne,
I use Tamiya grey Primer in the rattle can and so far it worked for me. You also might want to try to use CA accelerator with you PE.
 
Re:Another question on primer I hear you all groan

I use Humbrol enamels for painting and have had no problems with anything falling off!

Prior to painting I wash the finished model in a sugar soap solution, air dry, and prime with whatever oddments of paint I have left over from a previous model(s)!

The only times I have CA fail is when I paint strip, but as I make many of my metal parts from aluminium they also get destroyed by the stripper so the loss of the glue is the least of my problems!!

Regards Dave
 
Re:Another question on primer I hear you all groan

Hi Joanne,

I just read your post and I was wondering, do you glue the PE before you apply the primer? Or are you priming parts separately and then gluing them.

I have always use regular Krylon spray paint and the CA never comes off. However if you are priming the parts and then gluing them.. there is your problem.

dave
 
It is so hard to tell what the problem is without watching all your steps. So to go with the other suggestions, I would recomend that before you do anything wash both the entire kit before you start any construction (while still on the sprues), and do the same with the photo etch. Wash them both in a warm soapy solution, and rinse thoroughy. Also some photo etch will glue much better if you can give a quick light sanding to the portion recieving the glue (this works much better with the bigger pieces, but is pretty pointless on the super itty bitty pieces like bolt heads etc).

Gary B)
 
Super glue has terrible sheer strength- any sideways pressure will likely pop bits off (ask me how I know). You might try using a white glue- many swear by good old Elmer's- or Gator glue. I use Scotch Quick-Dry Adhesive- easy to use, dries fast (like it says) and has a bit of elasticity that keeps things where they should be. Apply to a clean, unpainted surface- and a bit of sanding to the PE gluing surfaces is great advice as well. Super glue still has its uses for bigger parts, but give a different glue a try- it may cure a lot of headaches!

Cheers-
chuk
 
@ Dave ... I always glue then prime as I wonder about an iffy bond when there is a layer of paint between the model and etch. The only time I ever glue over paint is if I have had something fall off and is in need of reattatchment.

I have just picked up a can of the Tamiya surface primer so I will give it a go next time I need to prime anything.I did notice I had less of a problem on a multi-coated Tiger that I couldn't make my mind up on the colour with so hopefully a better primer might keep the solvent out.

I don't have issues with paint adhering to the kit parts and photoetch or anything like that.

Not everything falls off ... mainly fiddly bits that have a small surface area on which the glue can adhere to which is what makes me think it might be an issue with the solvent dissolving the CA glue.Or something I have to put up with.

Maybe I am using the wrong solvent. I use both an Art Materials Odourless Solvent and MIG's thinner for washes.
 
Re:Another question on primer I hear you all groan

hi OJ I have that same exact problem in fact I started a thread in the old tnt called "priming the brass" I haven't done any pe since that posting, but have taken some advise from that old thread. I did give a new primer a go. Tamiya fine surface primer(L). I'm guessing the "L" is for lacquer. I got the light grey color. All the wording on my can is 100% Japanese but its not necessary to read it. I don't remember who it was that advised me but I set the can in a cup of really hot water not boiling but pretty hot, for a few minutes. I was told it will thin the primer some and build up more pressure in the can for a finer mist. Did this method help? I'm not sure but the stuff worked really nice. It comes out to a sort of glossy finish or at the very least, satin. The can is enough to do 2 models, maybe 3 and cost about 7 bucks. So the only drawback is the cost. If I can find something else that works well for cheaper I will use it ;) HTH
 
Re:Another question on primer I hear you all groan

Thanks woodcutter.

As you suggestI think it is going to be an ongoing struggle with this one but I have gone out and bought myself a can of the exact same Tamiya primer that you suggest. It will be a while before I can trial it with some PE as I am taking my time with the kit I am currently working on trying to get it as right as possible...... although it does not help when your mother-in-law picks up the thing and places it on an uneven surface while the glue and plastic of the suspension is still hardening.
 
Re:Another question on primer I hear you all groan

oh man it would make me crazy if my stuff got moved at all. I have a hard enough time getting back after a model even if everything is left exactly where i put it. This past summer my kid boomeranged on me and moved back in with us. Well my model building spot was his old bedroom so I had to pick up and move my operation into my b r and its ok but i had to add some folding closet doors to partition off my spot on account of all the cats. Cats love to help build models too especially when you leave the room :eek:hmy: The boy moved out a couple days ago out of state so I might want to go back to that room but the thought of moving back makes me groan.
back to the topic; I switched thinner from what i had been using (reg paint thinner) , to turpenoid which seems to be alot milder. I had the same problem with small parts popping off when applying washes. Must have been something in the old turp that was doing it. the turpenoid smells alot better too. So far so good, like I said I haven't been into metal since finishing the bison. The reg turp would cause my indy link track to fall apart, again with the wash process. This new stuff seems to be working much better(knocks on wood). Whatcha building now if you don't mind telling?
R.
 
Re:Another question on primer I hear you all groan

Wood cutter i use the games workshop primer a lot you get more volume for price and as the LHS said they believe it is made by Citadel colors brand dont stop using the games workshop remember it is made to prime various metals stick with what you know if you want to make a paint change great but i use that on plastic ,etched and metal parts and it is great :)
 
Re:Another question on primer I hear you all groan

hi dave. I have heard of that paint and would like to give it a shot. i'm looking for a supplier here in the states to order from. I was advised to try "boltgun metal" Games Workshop to use for exposed bare metal.The guys from over on Scale Modeler site seem to rave about it so I tend to believe it. Its good to try new things.
 
@ woodcutter.....

I have to go to the art supplies store this weekend so I might give turpenoid a run and see if it helps. So far MIG thinner and odourless solvent hasn't helped and I was planning on the turpenoid when I finished the solvent anyway.

As for what I am working on... A Trumpeter 1/35 Faun. It is intended as test as to whether I think I am capable of doing the BR52 I bought justice.
It is the first time I have used Eduard PE and masks to also get the hang of things for the Voyager PE I am going to get for the BR52. It is taking so long as I am not much of a scratchbuilder yet and I have replaced all the kit copper wire with brass wire to get the rigidity I think the pipes need..... I can never seem to get copper wire straight enough. Most of the time has been spent on extra detail for the gooseneck.
With all those wheels you can understand why I almost felt like crying when I saw it had been placed on an uneven surface to cure.
 
Ozzie Jo wrote:
I can never seem to get copper wire straight enough.
Click to expand...

cover the wire with a metal plate and with the help of the plate roll the wire over a flat and hard surface, then the wire should be absolutely straight!
 
For priming - When I was changing my colors to acrylics because of the odors I found a a acrylic based primer which works for me very good, its Createx Autoair Black Base. It comes in black or white and sticks to almost everything. Its made as a base for airbrush paintings i.e. cars or helmets.Its a little thick but can be thinned with the CREATEX Reducer.
 
@ozzie jo; well embarrassed to say i don't know what those are so i will need to look them up. Which army are/ were they with? I am currently going through the Russian KV phase. Its harmless I'm told. I'm feeling the B T bug coming next. I've stocked up on green colors that will look good on Russian stuff. In it for the long haul :blink
 
Faun is a tank transporter with lots of scope for fiddling with hydraulics etc. It also has 32 wheels which I am guessing would cost a fortune for aftermarket resin replacements. It's commonly used by the Bundeswehr...or was.
All I need now is a gun mount and machine gun but I am finding it hard to gather any information on this puppy other than walkaround pics showing everything other than what I need.

I must admit that the more I see of them the more I am coming to like the old Russian tanks.... Which is good as I bought a resin WWII Russian tanker for the sole reaon it was less than a dollar when nobody else bid on it.
 
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