70mm Viking

[Joe Hudson]

jknaus wrote:

Okay. Give me a little bit, I'll strip this one and start over and try to follow the steps you laid out. I think I'll take a dragon kit and use it to practice the steps also. See if I can make this work.

I have 1 kit that I am saving for when I can paint half decently. Benitos 1812 in 90mm.

Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. You should write a book you know.
James

James,

Any new pic's? I too have one that I have had for some time and keep saying the same thing!! Mine is a 90mm David Grieve Highlander. It such a wonderful figure that I do not want to mess it up! :woohoo:

No problem, hope it helps and about a book, not sure if there would be anyone who would have an interest!

Joe

 

[jknaus]

James,

Any new pic's? I too have one that I have had for some time and keep saying the same thing!! Mine is a 90mm David Grieve Highlander. It such a wonderful figure that I do not want to mess it up! :woohoo:

No problem, hope it helps and about a book, not sure if there would be anyone who would have an interest!

Joe

Alright everyone, sound off, who wants a book. :laugh:

I'll have some pics this week. I didn't get a chance to strip it this past weekend and tonight I had some extra time so repainted the blue. I added burnt sienna to the mix (that's what you meant by earth?). Then made a slightly darker base. After I mixed some umber to zinc white to make an off ivoryish and added that to the base to make some of the high areas a bit liter. I then worked on the green and retouched the top of the cape. When this dries I will do some shading on both. If I get the principle right I'll have a better idea what to do as I start over.

One thing I am happy with is I have managed to eliminate the brush strokes. It is smooth and that is a major milestone in my opinion.
James

 

[Joe Hudson]

James,

Looking forward to seeing them.

First, you are almost on the right way, just my opinion. Burnt Siena is a reddish brown. If you were going to make the blue darker you could just add some indigo and for the white, add a buff or ivory and stay away from any whites.

Here is a little example of some mixes. I was an oil painter but did the big switch!!

Green's add some blue/indigo to darken and shadow it. Add yellows to make it lighter. The yellows for earth would be the yellow ochres and more bright yellows for the highlights. Another thing is what I did was to make my own greens using blues and yellows.


Blue's add indigo to darken it or just start with indigo for the base. Highlights for light blues add some off white or ivory and darker blues add turquoise for highlights.

These are just a few. Hope this helps.

Joe

 

[jknaus]

Okay, does this look like I am going in the right direction?

The dark shadow looks blended to the naked eye, but here it just looks hideous.
James

 

[Joe Hudson]

James,

Looking much better. Just need to blend a little better. You can add a few glazes to help bring it together.

Joe

 

[jknaus]

Okay where I stand as of today.

I have been trying to make a "popping" figure of a Mongol Warrior but am now in the advanced frustration stage. I cant seem to make my brush do what my inner eye shows. I can kind of visualize what I want to do but everything is coming out wrong. So I'll finish this piece and hide it where no one can see, try another type of model and in a little while try again.
James

 

[jknaus]

Except for some touching up and putting on a plaque this is finished.
Comments welcome on my 3rd figure complete.

I still have a lot to learn.
James

 

[Jenny Croft]

That is superb James , I would suggest though to try and get a few kamikazuri paper plants to add to the groundwork for a little more interest an some depth .

I really love the shading and for your 3rd figure that is way awesome .

Jenny :kiss: