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70mm Viking
- Thread starter jknaus
- Start date
Rudi Richardson
Member
Nice start James. Vikings are a favourite of mine 
I'm guessing you're painting oils over acrylic? Remind me again who this figure is by? It looks so familiar, but I could find it from any of my usual suspects
Rudi
I'm guessing you're painting oils over acrylic? Remind me again who this figure is by? It looks so familiar, but I could find it from any of my usual suspects
Rudi
jknaus
Administrator
Rudi Richardson wrote:
Yes its oils over acrylic, and also Games Workshop chain mail. This is a Poste Militaire kit I got on eBay at Christmas. Viking Chieftain 9th Cent AD. The hardest part besides the skin tone is the embroidered sleeves and hem. I havent figured that out yet.
James
Nice start James. Vikings are a favourite of mine
I'm guessing you're painting oils over acrylic? Remind me again who this figure is by? It looks so familiar, but I could find it from any of my usual suspects
Rudi
Yes its oils over acrylic, and also Games Workshop chain mail. This is a Poste Militaire kit I got on eBay at Christmas. Viking Chieftain 9th Cent AD. The hardest part besides the skin tone is the embroidered sleeves and hem. I havent figured that out yet.
James
Joe Hudson
Master at Arms
James,
Can you get any close up pictures? From what I can see I like the green cloak. The other thing to just add more to your figure would be the the addition of seams on the inside and outside of the pant legs, the back of the shirt sleeves and down the front of the shoes and the back heels. These little details will help to make your figure stand out a little bit more.
Joe
Can you get any close up pictures? From what I can see I like the green cloak. The other thing to just add more to your figure would be the the addition of seams on the inside and outside of the pant legs, the back of the shirt sleeves and down the front of the shoes and the back heels. These little details will help to make your figure stand out a little bit more.
Joe
Hi James,
Nice work. keep it up!
If I may suggest you something, is how I make my metallic.
In your case, you are lucky to paint a metal figure, what you do, is polish with a brass brush the metallic parts.
Try to use the mini drill round brush and polish the piece using your hands, NOT THE DRILL!
After the piece is polished you may cover the metallic parts with some blue tac and spray your base coat.
Now the fun.
Colours to use smoke (Gunze or Tamiya) black, raw umber, burnt sienna and indigo, plus some printer's ink (or any silver if you don't have the latter).
first apply a couple of thin layers of smoke, let it dry.
Now mix and match the oil colours (more black/indigo for a shiny metal surface) more raw umber/burnt sienna for a rusty one.
Apply washes (as you do on your thanks)the deeper the crease the darker the colour.
Once you are satisfied, let all dry well.
Now another very thin layer of smoke then when is dried you can mix the silver with the black and start the highlight to the point you are going to use pure silver in the very polished area.
I hope this make sense, I will try to post some pictures next week.
Ciao
Giovanni
Nice work. keep it up!
If I may suggest you something, is how I make my metallic.
In your case, you are lucky to paint a metal figure, what you do, is polish with a brass brush the metallic parts.
Try to use the mini drill round brush and polish the piece using your hands, NOT THE DRILL!
After the piece is polished you may cover the metallic parts with some blue tac and spray your base coat.
Now the fun.
Colours to use smoke (Gunze or Tamiya) black, raw umber, burnt sienna and indigo, plus some printer's ink (or any silver if you don't have the latter).
first apply a couple of thin layers of smoke, let it dry.
Now mix and match the oil colours (more black/indigo for a shiny metal surface) more raw umber/burnt sienna for a rusty one.
Apply washes (as you do on your thanks)the deeper the crease the darker the colour.
Once you are satisfied, let all dry well.
Now another very thin layer of smoke then when is dried you can mix the silver with the black and start the highlight to the point you are going to use pure silver in the very polished area.
I hope this make sense, I will try to post some pictures next week.
Ciao
Giovanni
jknaus
Administrator
Joe Hudson wrote:
I'll take some more later this week. I still have to finish the shoes. Would I just do a super fine line of unber on the seams? Do you have a trick for decorating fine lines (I believe I should have decorated cuffs and hjem on the shirt but geometric designs that small baffle me).
James
I'll take some more later this week. I still have to finish the shoes. Would I just do a super fine line of unber on the seams? Do you have a trick for decorating fine lines (I believe I should have decorated cuffs and hjem on the shirt but geometric designs that small baffle me).
James
Joe Hudson
Master at Arms
jknaus wrote:
James,
Look forward to them. You could just make like " ~ " these all the way a round. Then if you like put some dots on each side or whatever. Just an idea.
Joe
James,
Look forward to them. You could just make like " ~ " these all the way a round. Then if you like put some dots on each side or whatever. Just an idea.
Joe
jknaus
Administrator
I think I'll buy a silver pencil tomorrow and sharpen it up, then on a spare figure make the tildes and dots and see how it looks. I'll take pics if I do and get your thoughts on it. I think if I sharpen it after every design it should be small enough and I think a silver pencil should look enough like silver thread. We'll see what happens.
James
James
jknaus
Administrator
Here you go Joe, I hope/
Hopefully this works. My dl'ed pics are embarrasing to look at and see the giant mistakes.
Got some feed back from another forum that it is flat. I just don't really know where to draw the line between not done enough and too done. To me it looks okay. Anyways anything you can glean from these pics and correct me on would be appreciated
James
PS I see what you mean, adding seams and shadows to shoes really changed it to the better. We'll see what happens after the dirtying up part.
Hopefully this works. My dl'ed pics are embarrasing to look at and see the giant mistakes.
Got some feed back from another forum that it is flat. I just don't really know where to draw the line between not done enough and too done. To me it looks okay. Anyways anything you can glean from these pics and correct me on would be appreciated
James
PS I see what you mean, adding seams and shadows to shoes really changed it to the better. We'll see what happens after the dirtying up part.
Joe Hudson
Master at Arms
Hey James,
Thanks for the better pictures. Now do you want me to sugar coat it or do you really want to move up a level on what a nice start you have here? I am guessing up so here goes.
The colors have some kind of highlights and shadows but just not enough to give it the punch that is missing, I guess this is why they said it was flat. For starters each color looks like they have the same shadow and highlight. Here is where I think you can move up. Your base color should actually be your middle shadow color. This way you will go up more for the pop and then just a little more for the shadows. Here are a few examples to look at, mind they are FAR for PERFECT!!! but just a guide of some sorts.
I used to make a mistake and think every thing had a deep shadow and high highlight. For example if you are painting an arm that is horizontal the under side would be the base and just adding more shadow. This way the base color would be the highlights, following?
Look at the hat on the French Marine. The bottom portion is really dark and the middle color/base then it gradually goes up to a really bright highlight, which causes it to look like it has the pop. The same could be said of the cross belt. Now look at the green on the leggings. The area below the knee is dark and the folds to the side of it with a minimal highlight then the top of it pops a little more. I think the best example is to look at the Maximus arm wrappings. You can see it is really dark then the highlights cause it to pop.
I hope this helps and if you have any questions please let me know.
Joe
Thanks for the better pictures. Now do you want me to sugar coat it or do you really want to move up a level on what a nice start you have here? I am guessing up so here goes.
The colors have some kind of highlights and shadows but just not enough to give it the punch that is missing, I guess this is why they said it was flat. For starters each color looks like they have the same shadow and highlight. Here is where I think you can move up. Your base color should actually be your middle shadow color. This way you will go up more for the pop and then just a little more for the shadows. Here are a few examples to look at, mind they are FAR for PERFECT!!! but just a guide of some sorts.
I used to make a mistake and think every thing had a deep shadow and high highlight. For example if you are painting an arm that is horizontal the under side would be the base and just adding more shadow. This way the base color would be the highlights, following?
Look at the hat on the French Marine. The bottom portion is really dark and the middle color/base then it gradually goes up to a really bright highlight, which causes it to look like it has the pop. The same could be said of the cross belt. Now look at the green on the leggings. The area below the knee is dark and the folds to the side of it with a minimal highlight then the top of it pops a little more. I think the best example is to look at the Maximus arm wrappings. You can see it is really dark then the highlights cause it to pop.
I hope this helps and if you have any questions please let me know.
Joe
jknaus
Administrator
Okay bear with me as I can be dense at times.
1. Mix my base colour, what I think the (lets say shirt) colour would be if lying flat on the bed.
2. Mix a bit are darkening agent to make it a bit darker. This becomes the base. Paint using this.
3. Mix more dark to make deeper shadows
4. Use original base as highlite
5. Mix some lightner to it to make lighter highlites.
Or am I way off?
PS I appreciate candor as that is how you learn. Its just the people who are snarky that gets my back up. I wouldn't ask if I didn't really want to get better at this. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
James
1. Mix my base colour, what I think the (lets say shirt) colour would be if lying flat on the bed.
2. Mix a bit are darkening agent to make it a bit darker. This becomes the base. Paint using this.
3. Mix more dark to make deeper shadows
4. Use original base as highlite
5. Mix some lightner to it to make lighter highlites.
Or am I way off?
PS I appreciate candor as that is how you learn. Its just the people who are snarky that gets my back up. I wouldn't ask if I didn't really want to get better at this. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
James
Joe Hudson
Master at Arms
James,
Itis a little better but it looks like the bottom of the cape has the same highlights and the top. What to do now is to build up the highs onthe top and leave the bottom of the cloak alone. Here is a picture of base, highs and shadows. Pardon the colors words. I have a new computer and need some kind of photoshop and had to use my sons Crayola program!! :woohoo:
Inthe picture you can see I went for a really extreme look on these.
Joe
Itis a little better but it looks like the bottom of the cape has the same highlights and the top. What to do now is to build up the highs onthe top and leave the bottom of the cloak alone. Here is a picture of base, highs and shadows. Pardon the colors words. I have a new computer and need some kind of photoshop and had to use my sons Crayola program!! :woohoo:
Inthe picture you can see I went for a really extreme look on these.Joe
Joe Hudson
Master at Arms
James,
Another thing is the blue shirt. The the shirt color to me would be the highlight color. One thing that I try to do is to add some form of earth color into my colors. This kind of helps to make it look a little more realistic. This is just my 2 cents. Here is a picture of how dark my base for painting a pair of white pants are and then the finished version with the highlights and shadows added. Let me know what you think.
Look at the base, then gradually add highlights. You can let the base show through to make the medium shadows and then add more for the highs and more for the shadows.
BTW there was no white added, just an off-white and ivory but it looks like white?
Also, look at how dark I did the purple on the chest and cuffs.
Joe
Base
Lights added
More highs and deeper shadows
Finished
Another thing is the blue shirt. The the shirt color to me would be the highlight color. One thing that I try to do is to add some form of earth color into my colors. This kind of helps to make it look a little more realistic. This is just my 2 cents. Here is a picture of how dark my base for painting a pair of white pants are and then the finished version with the highlights and shadows added. Let me know what you think.
Look at the base, then gradually add highlights. You can let the base show through to make the medium shadows and then add more for the highs and more for the shadows.
BTW there was no white added, just an off-white and ivory but it looks like white?
Also, look at how dark I did the purple on the chest and cuffs.
Joe
Base
Lights added
More highs and deeper shadows
Finished
jknaus
Administrator
Okay. Give me a little bit, I'll strip this one and start over and try to follow the steps you laid out. I think I'll take a dragon kit and use it to practice the steps also. See if I can make this work.
I have 1 kit that I am saving for when I can paint half decently. Benitos 1812 in 90mm.
Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. You should write a book you know.
James
I have 1 kit that I am saving for when I can paint half decently. Benitos 1812 in 90mm.
Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. You should write a book you know.
James