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What am I doing wrong?
- Thread starter Gator
- Start date
What brand are you using Kenny? Not that I can help but I know that's the first question that someone's going to ask.
JSteinman
Master at Arms
Kenny, It is all brand related. Some Acylics airbrush great and brush like garbage and vice versa. The only acrylics that have good performance in both areas, and I mean good not great, is Life Colour. Tamiya is really only good for the AB and Vallejo only for the paintbrush.
HTH
HTH
kryptosdaddy
Active member
The only Tamiya Acrylics I have trouble brushing are Black and the heavy greens, especially olive drab. They clump up badly, most others have been fine.
JSteinman
Master at Arms
Please, if you will, define fine.
Gator
Well-known member
Just about every thing. Citadel, Vallejo, cheap craft paint.
kryptosdaddy
Active member
Fine as in OK. No real issues. I have always used an enamel as a primer, maybe thats helping? But nothing stops that Tamiya acrylic black and green from 'clumping' up as you said.
I've never had any problem with the one bottle of Citadel or any of the Vallejo I have.
What are you cleaning your brushes with?
What type of surface are you painting? Primer?
Check that, I did have a problem with the Vallejo on the mustang when I brushed it, but it was in a very small area on the one part that gave me so much trouble. That's what made me convinced I had a mold release issue, even after cleaning it with alcohol.
What are you cleaning your brushes with?
What type of surface are you painting? Primer?
Check that, I did have a problem with the Vallejo on the mustang when I brushed it, but it was in a very small area on the one part that gave me so much trouble. That's what made me convinced I had a mold release issue, even after cleaning it with alcohol.
I think I know what you mean. Its like when you paint and then go over the same area again the paint that has started to dry sticks to your brush.
My Mate Chef Dave gave me this tip (For Tamiya acrilics)use tamiya thinners. It has an retarder build into it so it does not dry so fast and stick to the brush. Also thin it and let it dry then repaint. Hope this helps a bit.
My Mate Chef Dave gave me this tip (For Tamiya acrilics)use tamiya thinners. It has an retarder build into it so it does not dry so fast and stick to the brush. Also thin it and let it dry then repaint. Hope this helps a bit.
then i had no problem brushing them!
Gator
Well-known member
What are you cleaning your brushes with? Water between colors. Johnson Baby shampoo to store
What type of surface are you painting? Primer? Plastic and resin. Duplicolor aerosol & MM Acryl primer. Going to try Vallejo's primer.
Also, what are your preferences for brushes? How do you know if you have a quality brush?
What type of surface are you painting? Primer? Plastic and resin. Duplicolor aerosol & MM Acryl primer. Going to try Vallejo's primer.
Also, what are your preferences for brushes? How do you know if you have a quality brush?
Holy Smokes...you shampoo your paint brushes? lot cleaner than mine. I know it's baby shampoo but maybe it's something in it making the paint roll up?
I've never given it that much thought to be honest. Maybe that's something i'm missing out on.
I have a full set of ModelMaster brushes. They are nice. I also have a full set of red sable and Kolinsky brushes. I then bought brushes to complete a set of synthetic brushes, but the best thing to do is... go to an art store and look at the expensive brushes. The ferrule (metal band that holds the hairs or bristles) is very high quality, the handle may be ergonomic but that doesn't interest me.
What DOES interest me is that the store (in this case Michaels) provides a 40% off coupon allowing me to treat myself to these fine brushes.
I do use a paint conditioner and a paint well to hold the brushes vertical as they dry. Afterwards they are placed into pockets in a stowage mat that is rolled up and tied.
FYI, during High School, I made hobby money by painting denim jackets with rock band logos and album covers.
Regards,
Gator,
My two cents worth. I use every brand of paint, enamel, acrylic or lacquer, except Tamiya. It is a popular brand but I never liked it. I never have problems getting a good, flat finish. I could be wrong, but I have a strong belief in high quality brushes. I use only Russian sable. Expensive, but they last a long time and they flow any paint on smoothly. At least that has been my experience.
When applying acrylics with a brush, mostly you can never get a one coat application that fully covers. They key is to let each coat dry completely before applying the next.
Bob
My two cents worth. I use every brand of paint, enamel, acrylic or lacquer, except Tamiya. It is a popular brand but I never liked it. I never have problems getting a good, flat finish. I could be wrong, but I have a strong belief in high quality brushes. I use only Russian sable. Expensive, but they last a long time and they flow any paint on smoothly. At least that has been my experience.
When applying acrylics with a brush, mostly you can never get a one coat application that fully covers. They key is to let each coat dry completely before applying the next.
Bob
Gator
Well-known member
Thank you guys. Bob, I think trying to get one coat coverage maybe part of my problem. Old habits die hard.
MP, as a career sign painter, my dad was so particular about the care of his brushes. Lettering quills were cleaned and then treated with motor oil (used to keep the brush's shape) before putting them away. Fitches and cutters were cleaned and then wrapped in a page from the Sears catalog to keep their shape and then stored handle up in a can filled with thinner. We would periodically have to check the cans and top them off because of evaporation. Heaven help the son who didn't clean and store a brush properly. :vmad
That being said, the natural hair blend brushes I use are cleaned just I would clean my own hair.
MP, as a career sign painter, my dad was so particular about the care of his brushes. Lettering quills were cleaned and then treated with motor oil (used to keep the brush's shape) before putting them away. Fitches and cutters were cleaned and then wrapped in a page from the Sears catalog to keep their shape and then stored handle up in a can filled with thinner. We would periodically have to check the cans and top them off because of evaporation. Heaven help the son who didn't clean and store a brush properly. :vmad
That being said, the natural hair blend brushes I use are cleaned just I would clean my own hair.
Aha! That explains the shampoo. I don't use shampoo but I do use conditioner! The aforementioned well is usually filled with thinner or water, depending on the paint medium used, on the bottom and the brushes are suspended with the handles up. The one I bought also has a screw top with a carry cord. The screw top preventing spilling. This was actually a precaution against my then young son.
As Bob mentioned, the Russian sables are best. I mentioned Kolinsky, another is the Siberian Squirrel.
Regards,
As Bob mentioned, the Russian sables are best. I mentioned Kolinsky, another is the Siberian Squirrel.
Regards,
Squirrel!!!
Rocky the Squirrel
Seriously, Siberian Squirrel paint brushes?
Seriously, Siberian Squirrel paint brushes?