Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Yeah, it's a struggle but I LOVE it.
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Revell '65 Mustang Fastback
- Thread starter Greg Kimsey
- Start date
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Rocker panel. I used 2mm card cut 6mm wide then angled about 30 degrees along the outside edge. To build up to the height of the cabin floor I added a strip of 1.5mm square rod to the inner edge followed by 1mm 1/4round strip. So far so good!
Rockin....get it..That's about the best pun can do.
Looks great Greg!
Looks great Greg!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looking good Greg!
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Ok, this is drving me nuts. How do I handle this issue? I glued the trunk lip on and let the cement dry and entire day. Now I need to glue the gasket edge on, but when I do the lip cement lets go. I tried using super thin CA glue and let it seep around the lip but it ended up getting on the top of the trunk body and made a mess I now have to sand and expect the body is ruined. How do you guys handle getting glue on an old seam and not have it let go? HELP!
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Don't fret. Use a glue debonder. Apply with a cotton swab, give it some time, and the dried CA becomes a gummy (I call it snot-like) consistency which you can use the same cotton swab (with the dried debonder) to lightly scrub it off. No harm to the plastic as it is not a cement that chemically fuses the plastic but a glue that lays on top. I know some say I have clean builds but... I am messy and that is my secret. These are two I already used up!
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Thanks Saul, I don't know why I didn't think of that. It worked to get the CA off well enough.
Now to figure out what to do about new plastic cement making old cement release.
Now to figure out what to do about new plastic cement making old cement release.
Rhino
Super Moderator
Sanding stick and water!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
If you are applying CA glue from the bottle, then that is the big mistake. Only time I use CA straight from the bottle is on a finger cut. Otherwise I put a drop or two on glass or in my usual case a mounted sapphire crystal. Then I use a sharpened and polished wedge shaped steel wire to apply the super glue right where I want it.
Also with super glue, if you are applying it to smooth plastic, it can tend to break loose. I always try to break the surfaces with sand paper or a fine sanding stick. 600-400 grit to a max of 320 grit. The broken up surface holds the CA bond a lot better. In plastic to plastic I also will use WeldOn3 to get the plastic to bond directly which can make a difference.
Also with super glue, if you are applying it to smooth plastic, it can tend to break loose. I always try to break the surfaces with sand paper or a fine sanding stick. 600-400 grit to a max of 320 grit. The broken up surface holds the CA bond a lot better. In plastic to plastic I also will use WeldOn3 to get the plastic to bond directly which can make a difference.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
The question was more about what to do about Tamiya Xtra thin letting go after drying more than 24 hours when I apply the next part. Super frustrating. I didn't apply CA from the bottle but one of those little suck it up straw thingy's. I couldn't find my cut off sewing needle eye so I need to make another.
Rhino
Super Moderator
Caligraphy/Draftmans Ruling Pen 4.8 Inches Long
A draftsman's ruling pen is great for well, drafting! It's dandy for doing calligraphy in ink, but what this little beauty is REALLY handy for is applying precise amounts of liquid model cement in seams and tight spots. I use my 20-year old ruling pen on every plastic kit I assemble. Add onto...
tlarmodels.com
Well, as I stated, cement is a chemical reaction so, you can't stop it from weakening a prior bond. In these cases, I switch to a glue (CA, Gator's Grip, et cetera). If the glue completely covers the previous chemical bond and has cured, you can start again with cement.
Worst case scenario, knowing that the cement will weaken a prior cement bond, is to use a very thin applicator, others pointed to what they use, to place the cement precisely and blow to evaporate it before the chemical reaction has time to go deep enough to weaken a prior bond.
I learned this from a time I used MEK to build quickly and had a "Tough-n-Flow" as the applicator with (my previously used) insulin 30 gauge syringe to refill it. I see that they now sell it in various ways, including a 'system.'
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Well, as I stated, cement is a chemical reaction so, you can't stop it from weakening a prior bond. In these cases, I switch to a glue (CA, Gator's Grip, et cetera). If the glue completely covers the previous chemical bond and has cured, you can start again with cement.
A guy in my modeling group mentioned the Weld-on before and said the parts stay put when he uses it.
I think/hope I have a handle on this going forward. I need to make a sign for my wall to remind myself what to do when I forget all of this tomorrow LOL.
Sealing the cement with another glue should have occurred to me, but,..well, it didn't. I guess that was what I was attempting with the superglue, as I knew the cement would not affect the CA so the old part would stay put. This has been an issue for me for several models but never thought to ask about it. No video I have watched where the modeler adds parts later using cement mentions this and I KNOW it had to happen. I guess I was supposed to be smart enough or experienced enough I know. Been building models for 51 years now...and have always just fought the problem.
A guy in my modeling group mentioned the Weld-on before and said the parts stay put when he uses it.
I think/hope I have a handle on this going forward. I need to make a sign for my wall to remind myself what to do when I forget all of this tomorrow LOL.
