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New Tool from Dspiae
- Thread starter jknaus
- Start date
Good, you can figure out the center drill jig.
paddy
Well-known member
My skills ?..lol
I just unwrapped the new MFH car that arrived today , looked it over carefully, put it back in its box and wrapped it up again, its now in the back of the cupboard
I know when i am beaten before i start
First problem i can see is the metal suspension, especially the wishbones are unlikely to take the weight of the car bearing in mind this in the box weights 2.7 KG
I need to track down someone else who has built one but its so new i doubt anyone has finished one yet.
I think i might need to find something a bit simpler to practice on, i bought a smaller MFH car last year, a Abarth 1000
it might not look it but this a bit more basic (and cheaper to practice on )
I just unwrapped the new MFH car that arrived today , looked it over carefully, put it back in its box and wrapped it up again, its now in the back of the cupboard
I know when i am beaten before i start
First problem i can see is the metal suspension, especially the wishbones are unlikely to take the weight of the car bearing in mind this in the box weights 2.7 KG
I need to track down someone else who has built one but its so new i doubt anyone has finished one yet.
I think i might need to find something a bit simpler to practice on, i bought a smaller MFH car last year, a Abarth 1000
it might not look it but this a bit more basic (and cheaper to practice on )
Last edited:
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Makes you wonder if the guy making the kits actually builds them to see if they will fit and hold up under their own weight.
Isn't it true though that one single part doesn't bare (or bear) the weight of the entire build?
RichB
Well-known member
I don't think we want to know about your "bare" parts.
The single point of failure is a key element of system design. It has to be the part that when it fails, it causes the entire system to cease functioning. Ideally, the replacement part is only available from the OEM.
Cheers,
RichB
paddy
Well-known member
All i can say is with the bikes the centre stand and side stand will not hold the weight of the bike...
what is alarming is they appear too for a day or two but they do slowly bend and then collapse. If the bike is allowed to fall over under its own weight it will bend the foot rests and if they survive it will bend the frame that they are mounted too.
its not a problem if you know because you can display with a support or maybe remanufacture the stand in brass rod etc.
As Rich says, a chain is as strong as its weakest link. With my italeri 1/12 cars i bought some 1" dia sticky back felt pads and put a stack under the balance point under the floor so the wheels were on the ground but 90% of the weight was on the pads and floor.
what is alarming is they appear too for a day or two but they do slowly bend and then collapse. If the bike is allowed to fall over under its own weight it will bend the foot rests and if they survive it will bend the frame that they are mounted too.
its not a problem if you know because you can display with a support or maybe remanufacture the stand in brass rod etc.
As Rich says, a chain is as strong as its weakest link. With my italeri 1/12 cars i bought some 1" dia sticky back felt pads and put a stack under the balance point under the floor so the wheels were on the ground but 90% of the weight was on the pads and floor.
paddy
Well-known member
ha ha if he did he would know his chain moulds and design dont work
Anyway apologies i seem to have taken this thread way off topic.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
No apologies needed Paddy. These are important issues with some rather expensive kits. They should be addressed, and the way I look at it, if you don't complain to the guy that is making the kits, he can never know to fix these issues. He will just assume that all is good and continue making an inferior product.
paddy
Well-known member
Hi Paul
If this was Tamiya i would see no excuse however this is a niche, very low volume, model maker making very rare unusual models the mainstream manufacturers wouldn't touch.. These sell out on pre orders. Reading the reviews, all put up by people like you and me, these models improve with every issue, this model motorcycle is 2019 so its difficult to criticise, rather like picking on Tamiyas Rubber band tracks of the 80 in 2025.
I agree the car above is new but i need to base my opinion om my experience after the build. As far as i can see compared with Pocher these are cheaper and a million times better lets see ...by the time i have finished one of their cars i might be booking a flight to Japan with a baseball bat as hand luggage
If this was Tamiya i would see no excuse however this is a niche, very low volume, model maker making very rare unusual models the mainstream manufacturers wouldn't touch.. These sell out on pre orders. Reading the reviews, all put up by people like you and me, these models improve with every issue, this model motorcycle is 2019 so its difficult to criticise, rather like picking on Tamiyas Rubber band tracks of the 80 in 2025.
I agree the car above is new but i need to base my opinion om my experience after the build. As far as i can see compared with Pocher these are cheaper and a million times better
lets see ...by the time i have finished one of their cars i might be booking a flight to Japan with a baseball bat as hand luggage 
First, let me finally blame others, like @jknaus, @Heavens Eagle, @Steve Ski, and @moon puppy for ordering this DSPIAE AT-AP contraption. It is nice and I paid it off with Amazon points received after paying off $3000+ on my credit card (son's PC furniture, and what-not).
Bob, the concentric drilling tool works best with DSPIAE's tungsten drill bits. WHAT? There are three grub screws which you can use to center any other drill bit. Looking into it, I see that the videos show the DSPIAE AT-SHD hand drill with their (aha!) 3.175mm shank drills. Paul, now you see why they took that step backwards. @paddy, since the shank remains the same across the sizes, the drill bit is seated accurately and you simply adjust the rod/tube holder up or down (it has easily read markings) to the size you want a centered hole in. Nice but now I ended up buying three sets (each holding 6 sizes for a total of 18) of the specialized drill bits for the AT-ED electric drill which have the locking tabs. These also have the tungsten steel 3.175mm diameter shanks and I can always then use my carbide bits to finish the job if the size needed isn't provided.
Spin-Lock Drill Bit Sets
1.0 / 1.1 /1.2 / 1.3 / 1.4mm
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I see,
said the blind man,
when he picked up his hammer,
and saw.
I like my 3 jaw version.
It holds .013 to .125 with a simple hand tightened chuck and runs true.
said the blind man,
when he picked up his hammer,
and saw.
I like my 3 jaw version.
It holds .013 to .125 with a simple hand tightened chuck and runs true.
paddy
Well-known member
As an observer looking in i would say why 1/8" shafts ? presumably they want you to buy their drills and 1/8" allows for a 3mm drill but realistically you are not going to drill a 3mm hole with a pin chuck. they supply drills down to 0.3mm but these are very tight twist drills ( more twist per inch) which tend to clog easier and being sub 1mm i would want a wide open slack twist for strength and anti clog. In fairness its not going to be a huge problem with a manual pin vice . The plus side is the drills are very cheap, a box of 10 for what i would expect to pay for 2 high quality drills.
The bottom line is with all tools you get what you pay for and in most cases for the average joe thats absolutely fine. I just looked back at the price list for Karnasch milling cutters which we used to use at work and a 2mm carbide end mill is £50. or you can buy 1 for £0.70 from Temu..., so temu are 7042.857142857143% ( i used a calculator for that ) cheaper. I wonder why
The bottom line is with all tools you get what you pay for and in most cases for the average joe thats absolutely fine. I just looked back at the price list for Karnasch milling cutters which we used to use at work and a 2mm carbide end mill is £50. or you can buy 1 for £0.70 from Temu..., so temu are 7042.857142857143% ( i used a calculator for that
) cheaper. I wonder why
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
The thing is Paddy is that most small carbide drills that are readily available are set with 1/8 inch or 3.175 mm diameter. These are the bits that are used by the PC board fabricating industry for drilling circuit boards. My guess is that it was a standard set up a long time ago and is just set. It works, and everyone uses it.As an observer looking in i would say why 1/8" shafts ? presumably they want you to buy their drills and 1/8" allows for a 3mm drill but realistically you are not going to drill a 3mm hole with a pin chuck. they supply drills down to 0.3mm but these are very tight twist drills ( more twist per inch) which tend to clog easier and being sub 1mm i would want a wide open slack twist for strength and anti clog. In fairness its not going to be a huge problem with a manual pin vice . The plus side is the drills are very cheap, a box of 10 for what i would expect to pay for 2 high quality drills.
The bottom line is with all tools you get what you pay for and in most cases for the average joe thats absolutely fine. I just looked back at the price list for Karnasch milling cutters which we used to use at work and a 2mm carbide end mill is £50. or you can buy 1 for £0.70 from Temu..., so temu are 7042.857142857143% ( i used a calculator for that
For this "Assistance Platform" (the AP in AT-AP) carbide and tungsten bits can be used but they can't have a collar as it prevents the body from reaching the work area to cut into stock. I will post a mini-video showing this.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Saúl, I have found that the plastic collar can be pressed off. It isn't that hard. It's just that it is a size label and makes it easier if it is there.
I'll try that. I did find that the bits without collars have the size etched on the shank.
paddy
Well-known member
OK see how you go but the dspiae drills i looked at with the tight twist flutes are circuit board drills like those sets with the coloured rings the Chinese are pushing out by their billion and they wont last on plastic and wont even start to work on metal, they are a brittle as a stick of spaghetti ( before its cooked ) and i doubt you could sharpen them...I think you might find that the range of decent drills is bigger in 3/16 shank, i bought a very cheap 3 jaw chuck for my arrowmax and it runs pretty true. Problem solved.
and i doubt you could sharpen them...I think you might find that the range of decent drills is bigger in 3/16 shank, i bought a very cheap 3 jaw chuck for my arrowmax and it runs pretty true. Problem solved.
I bought this very cheap 3 jaw chuck (originally for my General engraver pen) and tried to put it on my Wowstick, it didn't fit. As for with the General engraver, it spun like a Latina at a quinceañera shaking her thang! I guess I will try it on the new toys since the brass collets stop at 3,2mm...
