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120mm Verlinden "Bandits 2 O'Clock B-17 Gunner"

Think out of the box, OK, out of the airplane. Glue the halves as best you can and use a sheet styrene skin on the outside! Easier to rivet too! Oh no! I mentioned rivets and you probably don't have any!

P1490456.jpg


Internally, there was armor plate on some versions of the Flying Fortress:

Click image to go to a site with some useful information.

Regards,
 
moon puppy said:
...the ones running up and down are Frames or ribs, I'm not clear on that one.
Click to expand...

Bulkheads or frames cover a cross sectional view. The former compartmentalize a fuselage whereas frames are there to shape the fuselage and add rigidity to the stringers. Ribs are associated with the wings and along with spars constitute the construction of most.

Regards,
 
And we expect you to count those rivets! :mpup

Mike the rivet counter...:rotf

Saul, what was the little box in between the stabilizers that got the armor?
 
Obviously something to do with the tail wheel, or the Head, it was back there somewhere. Ever seen toilet paper hit by a 20mm round??
 
For the figure, and to inspire you, here are some photos plus a link to a collector:

B-17Waist50s.jpg


image024.jpg


001-054529.jpg


B_17_WAIST_GUNNER.jpg


Click me to see the uniform collection!
 
Well...no rivet counting here! ;)

To be honest on the stringers (and even Verlinden suggests this)...the floor section goes right in that spot so any mismatch you see will be completely disrupted and covered up by the floor.

Gonna try the putty first...I'll fence it off so as not to disrupt the surround area. Saul's idea of patching the exterior over with styrene is intriguing...but I wonder if I could pull it off...something to consider though! I am not loving the shallow detail on the exterior...their "rivets" look like they'd get filled in with one coat of primer...
 
Jeeves said:
sharkmouth said:
Mike, the early type of machine gun pedestal suggests an E/F model.

Regards,
Click to expand...

So does this mean no NMF??
Click to expand...

I haven't seen any in NMF. White with OD splotches (anti-sub scheme), red/yellow stripes formation ship scheme, and OD over Neutral Gray.

To skin the outside, use a sheet of paper to make a template. Double sided tape or white glue to hold it down.

Regards,
 
Bummer...ah well...the inside will be aluminumish I guess ;)

Ok...so if I do the styrene sheet thingie...what is the template for?? Just to get an idea of the size?? If I glue this sheet over the outside, how would I hide the edge so it doesn't look like a sheet glued to it?? Maybe some strip styrene? My worry is one pics won't stayed glued and it'll peel up on me later. As far as rivets go...maybe a pounce wheel like Chuk uses??
 
Jeeves said:
Bummer...ah well...the inside will be aluminumish I guess ;)

Ok...so if I do the styrene sheet thingie...what is the template for?? Just to get an idea of the size?? If I glue this sheet over the outside, how would I hide the edge so it doesn't look like a sheet glued to it?? Maybe some strip styrene? My worry is one pics won't stayed glued and it'll peel up on me later. As far as rivets go...maybe a pounce wheel like Chuk uses??
Click to expand...


[ol]
[li]what is the template for? - To cut the thin sheet styrene skin to the proper shape while flat, including opening the window area.[/li]

[li]If I glue this sheet over the outside, how would I hide the edge so it doesn't look like a sheet glued to it? - You still need to fill and sand the outside of the shell. Making the sheet styrene cover slightly larger will impart the aluminum skin's thinness and camouflage the resin outer shell.[/li]

[li]My worry is one pics won't stayed glued and it'll peel up on me later. - The sheet styrene skin should be warmed up and draped over the fuselage to impart the shape. This also takes care of the peeling concern.[/li]

[li]As far as rivets go...maybe a pounce wheel like Chuk uses? - By the time you get to the outside, I hope you will try Archer Fine Transfers Surface Details of the correct size.[/li]
[/ol]

Regards,
 
That makes some sense Saul...when you say to warm the styrene...am I right in assuming that means placing it in some warm or hot water and not like leaving it next to my wood stove?

Are those rivets available in the 1/16 scale? I didn't see them listed as such on Archer's website...
 
Jeeves said:
when you say to warm the styrene...am I right in assuming that means placing it in some warm or hot water and not like leaving it next to my wood stove?
Click to expand...

Correct, use very warm water and flat tweezers to hold onto the part. The part MUST be over-sized as the tweezers may mar the sheet.

Are those rivets available in the 1/16 scale?
Click to expand...

I don't bother with the scales as they refer more to the spacing than anything else. Your best bet is to measure the spacing you need and ask.

Regards,
 
I have read there were a few late Fs that were NMF but I have not seen photos. You could always modify the mount.

For some reason, I like OD right now.
 
I can't imagine why Bob ;)

I will Dona good bit of searching to figure out what I'll do in the end. For now though, I did order Archer's Large Surface Details set 9...the diameter is slightly off, but the spacing is nearly dead on where Verlinden has them spaced. One putty layer has been added...just waiting for it to cure...
 
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