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1/35 scale Takom Mk IV Male Tank - COMPLETED

1/35 scale Takom Mk IV Male Tank

I'm using their branded thinner, no issues I've seen. I've even sprayed some right out of the bottle. I'm diggin' it. (y)



I usually use that thinner and yeah it does work well. I have had a few issues with some of the paints. I get, what I can only describe as what looks like surface tension circles in the paint. Kind of like when you spray directly on resin that hasn't been cleaned. Apparently there was an issue with some of the early colors that has been fixed in the formulation. If you run into that problem, use the Mr Color Levelling thinner. It fixes the problem.


What's your thinning ratio? I've been using 50/50 and it seems to work really well. Lots of thin coats to build up the color.


:drinks

Ratio? :idonno More like "A lil' dab will do ya".

I generally think to milk consistency.

I might be getting over excited about this stuff, only sprayed a couple of colors so far.
 
1/35 scale Takom Mk IV Male Tank

Love this build, Mike, could be a kit that I buy for myself aswell... but not for a while !



Ian.


Thank you kindly Ian. I love Takom kits, I have been really happy with the 3 I have assembled so far. This kit is a challenge with all the plates that have to be butted together, but it does build into a good representation.
 
1/35 scale Takom Mk IV Male Tank

With the paintwork finished, the weathering is up next. This is the part that scares me. I’m not good at weathering tanks, and this is typically where things stall out because I don’t want to wreck a good build and end up with another shelf queen, which results in a shelf queen. Oh man – what a mess! Any way, moving on…

I plan to follow the system that was laid out by Adam Wilder in his series of YouTube videos. I’m not saying that his system is any better then anyone else’s, I just find it easy to follow and is similar enough to what I am trying to do that its easy to follow and apply what he’s doing. I’ll modify the system as I go.

Once the paint was down, I sprayed the whole build with a gloss coat using future following my model airplane roots. Then I added a tank number from some spare decals I had in the stash, followed by a future coat to seal in the decals. After this cured for a couple days, I worked the pin wash. I used Wilder Deep Shadow Wash around all the rivets details and panel lines, etc. Much like the highlight painting, this was broken up over a few days to preserve my sanity. If I did it again, I may go with a lighter wash, as the Deep Shadow wash is very intense.

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I am fairly happy with result though.

Next up, the paint chipping. I started by mixing a lightened version of the green by mixing the Moss Green with Flesh adding paint until I was happy with the resulting color. Next I ripped up a small piece of sponge and used it to map out the light green paint chips. Dab the sponge in the paint, dab most of the paint on a paper towel, then dab the surface of the tank. Once I was happy with this step, I used a brush to add and enhance more chips and scratches in the paintwork. Using the light green scratches, I followed up with more chips and scratches using the Ammo paint color Chipping Color, which is a dark metallic brown. This basically follows the Wilder method although I was a little more restrained, per my own tastes. I tried my best to be logical with the chipping, trying to tell a story with each little chip and scratch, focusing on the rear of the tank where the crew climbs on the tank, in the spud box where the track spuds are stored, the edges of the sponsons where things got hit as the tank is moving, and scratches’ on the sides from tree branches and things. I am pretty happy with how this all turned out. Here are the photos:

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Here is a close up of the spud box. I am particularly happy with this result.

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Next step is the exhaust. For this I went my own path. I brush painted the base coat with Lifecolor Base Rust, which brushes on really nice and smooth straight from the jar, and leaves a dead matt finish. Once that dried I basically sponge chipped the exhaust with the colors from the Ammo Rust set to get a variety of spots and color variations. Followed by a localized wash using Wilder Dark Rust Effects, some rust pigments mixed with some mineral spirits in a few choice areas and when I thought it looked good, the brushes and sponges were put down. Ok – then I added black smoke pigment to the end of the exhaust pipe.

What do you guys think?

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And a close up of the muffler.

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This catches us up to today’s progress. Not too many steps to go, I just might make it in time.

Thanks for looking, and honestly guys, I really want some honest critical feedback. It helps me improve.

Mike
 
1/35 scale Takom Mk IV Male Tank

I can feel m'self being tempted more and more with each update, Mike. Great work on the exhaust & muffler, sir... :good:



Ian.
 
1/35 scale Takom Mk IV Male Tank

World War I battlefields were notoriously dirty and desolate places. Added to it, the British tanks with the tracks that encompassed the outside of the tank caused all sorts of dirt and mud to fall down the sides of the tanks. Despite their very slow top speed, these tanks got muddier then today’s high speed armored beasts. It was so bad in fact the British stopped wasting their time camouflaging the tanks as the got so dirty they naturally blended into the battlefield. This is the next step in my weathering adventure. Time to get dirty!!!!!

First step was to start off with a very lite dust layer as a base to all the dirt. I used Ammos Natural Effects North Africa Dust, heavily thinned and misted over the bottom and generally up the sides behind the gun sponsons.

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Next up was pigments to simulate the dried mud, dirt and dust on the roof. Here I used the old school Mig pigments, European Dust and Dried Mud. These were blended and fixed in place using enamel thinner.

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Continuing with the top, I added mud deposits to the spud box. For those that don’t know the track spuds are basically track grousers with extensions that were bolted onto the tracks to provide better traction and flotation in the mud. When not on the tracks, the were stored on the Mark IV in the box at the rear of the roof. This area would no doubt be full of mud and dirt that was knocked off the spuds as they road along. For this area, I decided to use a new product. This was the Vantage Modeling Solutions (VMD) EU Brown Warm Tone Coarse pigments and used their Alkyd binders. I followed their video instructions and am very happy with the results.

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For those of you tha haven’t heard of VMS before, here is their web site. https://www.vms-supplies.com I strongly recommend giving them a try. In the US I have been getting my stash from Michigan Toy Solider Company. https://www.michtoy.com Their customer service is amazing. In Europe its probably much easier to get VMS directly from their web site.

Next up is the mud on the sides. I saw a pretty good technique in the Weather Magazine for adding the mud to the sides of a Mk IV tank and decided to use it. I mixed up some modeling dirt with Ammo Nature Effects Earth in a very wet mixture and then I used the air pressure from my airbrush to basically splash the mud on the tank, building it up one splatter at a time. I then repeated the process with a mixture of dirt and AK Dark Mud. This created some variation in the dirt. I basically kept most of the dirt under the sponson level moving toward the front of the tank and then moved up the sides toward the back following reference photos I had of real tanks.

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And I didn’t forget the rear of the tank…

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Next step was some dirt streaks from water and dirt that has run down the sides of the tank. I used Brown Mud Splatter from Adam Wilder’s line of weathering products, basically painting streaks down the sides of the tank in random places. This ended up being a little lite but otherwise its ok.

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The front of the tank looked too clean, so I added some dirt in the corners using the VMS pigments again. This time I used EU Light Dirt and EU Brown Earth Cold Tone again with the Akryl Standard fixer. This fixer has a 9 hour working time. Basically you dump on the pigments, add the fixer using capillary action, then hit it with a little heat from a hair dryer. Like a minute on medium heat worked fine for me. This dries everything and fixes it in place with a totally matt finish. Its totally locked into place, but if you want to make adjustments you have 9 hours before its irreversible. Pretty cool product.

This step basically finished the hull of the tank. Next up is the tracks. Takom supplied working individual links with this kit. These are the newer style single part link instead of the original multi piece links they had in the past. The links are in a bag by themselves already removed from the sprues. There is just a single blemish, probably where the plastic is injected into the mold, but this is right on the ridge of the track link, quick swipe from a sanding stick and its all gone. These just snap together to assemble the run. I painted mine in Ammo Track Primer before assembly. Something I learned from the Mk1 build, once assembled the links overlap making airbrushing a nightmare. Once painted, assembly took about 15 minutes per side.

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Sorry the picture is so dark. I put some of the unpainted links in the front so you can see what they look like. Then I dirtied the links. Here they are with all the products I used.

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And close up

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Its interesting that the metallic shine I put on the ridge using AK dark steel pigment doesn’t show up in the photos, its very prominent in real life. :idonno I let the tracks sit for a bit then installed the right side run. It’s a little loose, but not to bad overall.

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The left side track will be added when we get to the base.

That’s it for today. The tank is pretty much finished, just need to work the accessories and the base. Getting close. :frantic :frantic :frantic :frantic

Thanks for looking, and as always comments and questions are welcome!
Mike
 
1/35 scale Takom Mk IV Male Tank

Really good Mike!...Great weathering effects :good:

Luiz.


Thanks Luiz. For my first real series attempt at these type of effects I am pleased with the result. There is room for improvement, but that's why we keep on practicing. :v
 
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