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Wingnut Wings Sopwith Triplane

moon puppy

Administrator
Staff member
I cleared the deck of Lulubelle and pulled out o'l Raymond Collishaw's Tripe.
It's worth mentioning how low part count there is in this kit but you really have to start thinking about painting VERY early on. Like now.
So I'm pondering opening the came of worms known as "What is PC10" Protective coating #10 for the RNAS and RFC. I understand they did not get along at all nor did they share resources such as paints.
First order of business, what's the upper surface color?

Found this online.

260 pounds nitro Cellulose syrup
74 pounds of pigments in the following proportions
40 pounds yellow ochre
30 pounds umber
2 pounds 8 ounces Red Ochre
1 pound 8 ounces Chinese Blue.

Once that lot was assembled it was added to
20 gallons Acetone or Methyl ethyl ketone
15 gallons Amyl Acetate
15 Gallons benzol
15 gallons Methylated spirit

In Cecil Arthur Lewis book Sagittarius Rising he mentions the aircraft SE.5 and others being chocolate colored. Arthur Gould Lee in his writings "No Parachute" also uses the word chocolate so that's the direction I'm going.

Right'o! Get right to it then. :rotf
Instructions start in the cockpit as all things build up from there so i'll have some photos this weekend.
 
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There ya go Ian. From my trip to RAF museum way back in 2017.
If I had known I was going to build this thing I would have gotten some better photos.
 
When I did my Se5a, I mixed brown into OD green. Kind of a compromise. From the looks of the formula, the German brown/violet might be close. Looking forward to this. Gary S.
 
So I'm pondering opening the came of worms known as "What is PC10" Protective coating #10 for the RNAS and RFC. I understand they did not get along at all nor did they share resources such as paints.
Judging by some of the WWI forums, its more of a viper pit than a can of worms. Is PC 10 light olive green, dark olive green, a greenish brown, a brownish green? Did the varnish in the mix make it shift between green and brown depending on light and angle of view? Did it weather to a brown? Did the base colour become browner with increased use of imported yellow ochre with a higher iron oxide content? What about RNAS Proprietory PC10 that with a slight change in pigments made it a dark green? Or could it be PC12 which as been described as reddish brown, brownish red, brick red or chocolate brown?

Anyone who isn't confused doesn't really understand the situation.

Cheers,
RichB
 
Judging by some of the WWI forums, its more of a viper pit than a can of worms. Is PC 10 light olive green, dark olive green, a greenish brown, a brownish green? Did the varnish in the mix make it shift between green and brown depending on light and angle of view? Did it weather to a brown? Did the base colour become browner with increased use of imported yellow ochre with a higher iron oxide content? What about RNAS Proprietory PC10 that with a slight change in pigments made it a dark green? Or could it be PC12 which as been described as reddish brown, brownish red, brick red or chocolate brown?

Anyone who isn't confused doesn't really understand the situation.

Cheers,
RichB
So sort of like Olive Drab. :rotf
 
Much better photos Paddy. Thanks.
Is it brown, is it green? Yes!
I dig the darker color where the fabric is stretched over the framing. A good dry brush should pull that out.
I think I got the Irish Linen color sorted, got a custom mix prepped.
Played around a bit today, this is going to be more of an adventure in painting than anything.
I have not seen anyone offer up the aerodynamic bracing wires for the Tripe, I got some from RB productions for the SE5 but I haven't see much aftermarket for this.
One thing for sure, it'll stand proud when done!
 
Some of the photos even seem to have a bit of dark grey to the green. Thing is, to be honest the only folks that really need to nit pick are the folks in the museums that are maintaining and restoring these aircraft.

SO,

Take your best guess Bob and have fun.
 
From WWI Cookup
The PC10 Recipe

Lets see for 100 gallons (Imperial btw) of PC10 dope
260 pounds nitro Cellulose syrup
74 pounds of pigments in the following proportions
40 pounds yellow ochre
30 pounds umber
2 pounds 8 ounces Red Ochre
1 pound 8 ounces Chinese Blue.

Once that lot was assembled it was added to
20 gallons Acetone or Methyl ethyl ketone
15 gallons Amyl Acetate
15 Gallons benzol
15 gallons Methylated spirit

(Source for this recipe wwi British aeroplane colours and markings by Bruce Robertson) However this was one general recipe and the key was it was a general one.
Check the link to see other peoples fave mixtures. Hope that helps. Watching with interest.
James
 
@Brokeneagle
Here's some photos
1748731554590.png


Not much but there's a start. I'm perplex about the floor. Instructions call for both Irish Linen and Aluminum. Right now it's aluminum.

Searching around what others have done for PC10 or PC12 I've seen every shade of brown and green out there so who's going to tell me I'm wrong?

Primer, tamiya black for preshade, then Nato Brown next layer, then a thin coat of Tamiya Olive Drab. FX 62.
1748732226005.png

What you see on the far right is just the xf62 over primer and preshade. From the wingtip to about the mid section is the brown backed basecoat.
After some clear coats and weathering, protecting the rib tap I think this will work.
 
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