Thinking of starting the Quonset hut...

[Jeeves]

but getting these shell pieces all aligned is going to be a small nightmare...any ideas? Not sure soaking in hot water would be best-- I am just worried trying to bend that last piece into the state of the others will just end up snapping it in two....

 

[moon puppy]

I thought a soak in hot water was what fixes that stuff. Have you given it a try yet?

 

[Cheyenne]

Mike , can you make a rectangular wooden jig , preferably out of bass wood or some other strong wood and align your pieces that way to fit and form , flush on the top and sides then trim/sand the bottom even .

 

[moon puppy]

Bingo

 

[Cheyenne]

Bout time you woke up , Pup ........ :laugh:

 

[moon puppy]

Yeah but don't expect much yet, still pumpin java in me.

 

[Cheyenne]

Now alls we gotta do is wake Mikey up .....

 

[Jeeves]

I'm up and at church already!

That might work Glenn...I'll have to see which of the 4 segments actually line up with the end pieces and use that as the template I imagine...for the most part three are relatively equal...I am secretly hoping its those three that match the ends so I only have to alter one...and not the other way around...

 

[Cheyenne]

Good ta go ....

 

[Jeeves]

Ok...so I shelved this waiting for a better day . Of course the one section that doesn't line up with the other three is the one that matches the end....buzz off Murphy!

So I was trying to wrap my head around how I want to display all I'm doing on the inside. Having just the couple windows on the end piece doesn't seem ideal...

There seems to be a raised section of the corrugated metal at the roof cap...maybe I can separate that part and make like a lid...what do you guys think? And if I go that route, should I glue the sections together first and them cut?

 

[Sharkmouth]

Your answers are there Mike. Using the end plates and the best fitting section, make a rectangular frame around them. Use stanchions or gussets to ensure that the end sections are vertical. Then get water to almost boiling to soften the resin sections (except the end plates which are temporarily in the frame) and place them over the form (within the frame's sides and over the end plates). Repeat for all sections and they should be the same.

Regards,

 

[Adam Baker]

If you have a food dehydrator for drying paints, that has an adjustable heat control, that can be used for fixing warped resin as well.

I used my dehydrator last year when I was working on a resin submarine that had a bit of a banana shape to it. Cranked the dehydrator up to max (~150° F) and left it in there for 20 minutes as a time, before pulling it out, tweaking the part, and then running it under cold water.

 

[Jeeves]

Thanks for the tips guys...

What say you all about getting more visibility for the inside though...lid for top?...section it in half?...just go with the two windows at the end?

 

[moon puppy]

Didn't these have flaps on the side that pushed out for windows or venting?

 

[Jeeves]

There just seems to be the corrugated metal throughout the whole structure....

 

[moon puppy]

Think some had windows, do a google search and see what I mean.