Question of Curiosity - Airbrushes

[denstore]

Oh, it is easy. Just cover the nozzle cap with your finger or something (if you have a normal cap*) and force air back trough the airbrush. It isn't anything bad for the airbrush. Paint will not get into the airvalve. It will not be push into any other place either. But small bubbles of air will reach places in the paint channel that normal spraying dont.

First time I did this, I was surpriced how much gunk came out with the backflush, even when I had sprayed thinner until it appeared completely clean.

My normal procedure of cleaning is:
Empty the cup, and fill with a bit of clean water or whatever thinner you use for the paint.
Roughly clean out the cup with a q-tip and some paper towel. Clean the nozzle cap with same q-tip.
Spray a bit of clean thinner. Backflush into the same thinner.
Replace with new fresh thinner, and spray and alternate with backflush until thinner stays clean. Usually this is only repeated a couple of times, if the paint hasn't started to set. Pull needle, and wipe it of.

* This doesn't work on crown caps or caps with holes or prongs. For backflushing my Microns I have made a special "tool" which is a short piece of rubber hose, with a cap in one end. This is small enough to close around the end of the airbrush. Worked fine with my H&S brushes as well, before I sold them.

 

[moon puppy]

I've had three "revelations" in airbrushing during the years. First was reading some article in the late 90's, where the author suggested a technique of always keeping the air on. As long as the airbrush is in your hand, let the air flow. I've read this from other sources a couple of times later as well, and it is sound advice. The thing is that with the air going, you will decrease the risk of tipdry, since the air keeps the needle point clean, and the classic "start spatter" will be completely eliminated. It also reduces the things to keep in mind. A lot of people that has started with single action brushes have a hard time with the "open air first, then the paint, close paint, then the air"-mindset. They want to just release the trigger to stop. Doing that on a double action is inviting disaster. First, while stopping the air before the paint, it usually lets a drop of paint bleed out onto the needle to, or the needle cap. Result, spatter or tip dry. Second, it is one of the primary reasons for broken nozzles. While demo-ing airbrushes at a national event, I had to stop people from doing this. Most of the culprits doing this was either single action or Aztek owners....
With the air going, the only thing to think about is paint or no paint. Reduces the things to think about to the same level as a single action.

My second revelation was understanding paint and paint products. I switched to acrylics from Humbrol enamels in the late 90's, early 00's, and immediatly had even more problems than I had with enamels. My problem with enamels where inconsistent behavior and results, and when I started with acrylics, it continued, but added to the earlier problems where tip dry and to short drying times (orange peel effect).
For years I had been listening to peoples advice on "skimmed milk consistency" and other rules of thumb. After almost giving up on airbrushing, especially acrylics, I talked to a very good modeller here in Sweden about his superb finishes, and he said that he thinned a lot more than generally recommended. His goal was never to get complete cover the first run, but to build up thin layers of paint. Sounds so basic, but today I thin a lot more. Add to that the use of retarder, extender, and flow aids, and I would say that my airbrushing has developed tremendously.

And the third. Backflush and car wax. So simple, and still so effective. I used to tear down my airbrushes every time I had used them, most of the time even between colour changes. Then I started to backflush, and today I strip down my airbrushes maybe once a month, or if I know that it won't be used in a while, before putting it away. And I use silicon free old fashion car wax on every part, even the needles. Works great, and makes cleaning so much easier.

Today I do 90% of my airbrushing directly at my modelling desk. No sheds, no standing on the balcony, no paint booths. Fine nozzle, small cup airbrush, some drops of paint in the airbrush, and of you go.
Only large cover work needs to be brought to the paint booth.

Great suggestions, makes sense. I'll give all these a shot next spray session.

Back Flushing, I always use a towel that has the appropriate thinner on it, that way I don't press against the needle tip and some of the thinner is sucked back up the paint path instead of just dry air.

 

[denstore]

Thanks!

About the towel. I have tried it, especially when trying to backflush crown capped airbrushes, but I always worry about touching the needle. So little is needed to make a micro hook on the really sharp needles.
But I'm sure it's just me being overly fussy about airbrushes. Can't help it, but I'm an airbrush geek. :geek

 

[TomN]

Thanks for the info denstore.

Airbrushes are cool!

Tom

 

[denstore]

Thanks for the info denstore.

Airbrushes are cool!

Tom

You're welcome!

Airbrushes are cool. And I have started to realize that it is one of the main ingredients in "modern modelling". I've also realized that there are few subjects on modelling forums that can derail into flamewars faster than airbrush discussions. I've been part of a few epic ones.
Every brand seem to have a loyal group of fans, and it's best to thread lightly when recommending airbrushes. That said, I believe I could live with almost any brand, even Aztec. It's all about getting to know the pros and cons of your tool, and either accept it, fix it or walk away. There are thousands of other makes and models, and even the most expensive ones are cheap compared to many other specialist tools.

 

[paddy]

Denstore
Spot on mate, bad workmen always blame their tools. In my experience a airbrush is as good as its needle and i have had great results from cheap and nasty as well as my Paasche.
Any old biro and a good needle and air supply and correctly thinned paint will do

 

[denstore]

I believe there's need for both basic and advanced airbrushes in modelling.
95% of all modelers will be OK with a good all round airbrush. My recommendation is usually a gravity fed double action with a 0.3-0.5mm nozzle and a large cup. Brand doesn't matter, but what do is how the airbrush fits your hand. Too many chose airbrushes only because brand, just to later realize that they find something to feel wrong or awkward.
Some people say that it's the artist not the airbrush that matters, but no artist use tools that they aren't comfortable with.
Also, I strongly believe that it is better that I set the limits before the airbrush than vise versa. Nothing is as annoying as feeling that your tool held you back. This doesn't need to mean expensive. Usually it is less expensive to get a couple of tools, each specialized to be good at something than getting one that can do everything, if that is even possible.
Then I like to treat myself to airbrushes sometimes. For being a quite specialized tool, with large amounts of handcrafting involved, they really aren't that expensive.

 

[panzerace007]

DENSTORE ,

Great Thread !! Makes tons of sense ! I've never heard of putting a coating of Car Wax on th AB parts. Do you leave th wax on there or is it wiped off after it dries ?

Thanx again for sharing !!

 

[denstore]

Thanks!

I do as I've always do. Wax everything. Let it dry for a couple of minutes, to see where the wax is. I suppose you could polish it of right away, but you will probably find dry spots anyway.
And then polish it of with old piece of cotton cloth. (Can anyone explain why old tshirts make the best rags?)
I've been doing this for the last 10-15 years.
Talked to a fellow airbrush nut in California a couple of years ago, and concluded that he did the same thing.
The wax is good for three things. It keeps things airtight, it lubricates, and it makes the paint stick less to the airbrush.
Just keep away from the wax with silicone, since it can effect the paint. Car painters call it fish eyeing, I believe.

 

[panzerace007]

I'll keep this in mind & go grab some Wax. I too have found that th Old T-Shirt makes th best rags !! Perhaps b/c th fibers are all worn & years of washing have taken out all of th lint & softened th shirt ??

:v :drinks

 

[denstore]

Maybe. But my wife's old t-shirts doesn't work as well, so it might have something to do with sweat and beer stains as well...

What compressor do you people use? Last page Paddy said that with a good needle right paintmix and good air supply almost anything will work. I agree with him on that. In many cases I think people spend to much on their airbrushes and too little on their air.
I have a large tank workshop compressor out in the back for power tools and spray guns and large nozzle airbrushes.
But inside in the hobby room I have a Sil-Air 15D. Super silent, and a pure joy to work with.

 

[matrixone]

I have seven airbrushes, a Paasche VL, Badger 150 and 100G, Iwata CM, HP-BS, Eclipse, and Revolution BR. Out of all these airbrushes the Revolution BR is the most useful for painting and weathering plastic scale models.
The Revolution BR can spray fine detail every bit as good as my more expensive Iwata's can do but it is the least expensive airbrush in my collection, you don't need to spend a lot of money for a good quality airbrush for painting models. Also it uses only one needle and nozzle size to perform a wide variety of painting tasks from airbrushing large photographic backdrops down to spraying mottles on 1/144 scale models.

The new Badger Krome might be a nice airbrush but I don't care for the need to use two different needles and spray nozzles and also don't think the pre-set needle travel feature is needed...its far better to use your brain and muscle control to spray consistent fine lines, some of my expensive Iwata's also have the pre-set handle feature and its nothing but a gimmick to sell airbrushes to noobs.

All any modeler needs (especially a modeler new to airbrushing) is a low cost quality gravity feed airbrush with the ability to paint both large and smaller size objects well without the need for expensive gimmicks like MAC valves, extra needles, and pre-set handles to paint his (or her) models and the Iwata Revolution BR fills the bill nicely without breaking the bank.

Matrixone

 

[panzerace007]

Compressors ....

I have one that I got from Bear Air , I think it's th Polar Bear 3400 http://www.bearair.com/Polar-Bear-3400-1_2hp-Compressor/productinfo/120022/ , I must've caught it on sale 'cause I don't remember paying this much for it ... although it was 6 years ago. It's silent ! It's powered by a Refrigerator Compressor ! it has a holding tank & quiet. I can shoot paint into th Wee-Wee hours & not worry about waking up any one ! I love it !!

 

[denstore]

All any modeler needs (especially a modeler new to airbrushing) is a low cost quality gravity feed airbrush with the ability to paint both large and smaller size objects well without the need for expensive gimmicks like MAC valves, extra needles, and pre-set handles to paint his (or her) models and the Iwata Revolution BR fills the bill nicely without breaking the bank.

Matrixone

Must day that it is hard to decide on what anyone really needs. Some will never feel the need of anything more than the most basic tools, while others like to spend money and effort chasing down exactly what they believe they need.
As an example I know that I could manage with almost any of my more inexpensive airbrushes, but I chose to hunt down a MP-200A in Italy all the same. And I paid quite a lot for it.
Today it is my absolute favourite detailing airbrush.

 

[denstore]

Compressors ....

I have one that I got from Bear Air , I think it's th Polar Bear 3400 http://www.bearair.com/Polar-Bear-3400-1_2hp-Compressor/productinfo/120022/ , I must've caught it on sale 'cause I don't remember paying this much for it ... although it was 6 years ago. It's silent ! It's powered by a Refrigerator Compressor ! it has a holding tank & quiet. I can shoot paint into th Wee-Wee hours & not worry about waking up any one ! I love it !!

It looks very much like my Sil Air! Both in appearance and description.
Nice!

 

[matrixone]

For many years I used my Badgers for painting my models (mostly WWII Luftwaffe) but kept reading about how great Iwata airbrushes are and wanted to be able find out for myself so I bought a few of them along with an Iwata compressor. The Iwata's really are a top notch line of airbrushes and over a period of time of using them I found out the low cost and simple Revolution BR is the best of the bunch when it comes to painting plastic scale models. The expensive Custom Micron and HP-BS are great airbrushes but are overkill and had I had any idea the Revolution BR was as good as it is I never would have spent the hundreds of dollars for the other Iwata's...it was an expensive lesson to learn and I try and let others know you don't really need to spend big bucks on an airbrush to get acceptable finishes on your models.

Just because I speak well of the Iwata's does not mean I don't like Badgers, the two Badgers that I have are several years old and have been used a lot and have been ultra reliable and would not even think of parting with them.

Matrixone

 

[denstore]

The BR is a very competent airbrush and if it fills your needs, it is what you should use.

My only objection would be that I think we all must find our needs ourselves. Some people are OK with Badgers 200 and the largest nozzle and other do 95% of their work with the 0.15 needle of their Infinity. I have friends in both categories.

In my opinion the strenght of the Microns isn't only the superb detailing capabilities, but also the great ability to atomize paint. Shading becomes a lot easier, almost like blending colour, and still it works OK with solid layers. It gives it more practical use than any other airbrush I have. I can lay several layers of Vallejo with my 200C, and it will still be thinner than the ones I did with Humbrol and the Aztec.
But I need to both thin and extend the paint almost as much as I can, and several colours are more than finicy. White and yellow definitly doesn't like to be sprayed with too fine nozzles. The pigment is probably to coarse.